Why doesn't my fender fit

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kanders

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I have a 1971 duster that I purchased a couple of months ago. The pass fender to door gap is uneven from top to bottom, I removed the lower attaching bolts as well as the one in the fenderwell and I can't pull the bottom closer to match the upper gap. The top is about 1/4" and the bottom almost 1/2". Whats weird is that last sunday I pulled into a gas station and there was a 72 Duster on a trailer and it had the exact same misalignment! Is this common with these cars, any suggestions would be appreciated.

duster fender horiz.JPG
 
It does lok a lil' bit gappy, open up the holes a lil and maybe move the door forward,these cars werent designed with the best of fittment but everything can be fixed with a lil' work
 
It does lok a lil' bit gappy, open up the holes a lil and maybe move the door forward,these cars werent designed with the best of fittment but everything can be fixed with a lil' work

I actually removed the adjustment bolts and it will pull outward but when you try to pull backward there is way too much tension, it just wants to buckle.The door gap is perfect on the rear and bottom and closes perfectly. I was afraid that because this car supposedly used to be a race car that there might have been some "give" somewhere. I just want to be sure that the body doesn't need some adjusting since I just ordered a set of US CARTOOL
subframe connectors.and once they're in - thats it! BTW the car on the trailer had some pretty serious rear race suspension and a big block, same reason for uneven gap???
 
I bought a NOS fender for a 73 camaro for 20 bucks once. I got it home and was all excited to put it on, I get it on the car and bolt it down and the whole fender was about 5 inches too far forward but all the bolt holes lined up just fine! Turns out that the factory messed up and were one spot weld off center so I just drilled out the spot welds, moved it back, rewelded it and was done with it.
 
Loosen all the bolts along the top except for the front 2. This will allow the fender to raise up as you pull back to get the bottom of the gap even. Once that is done and its lined at the door you can tighten down the top bolts. If its a little high right at the cowl, a piece of 2X4 wrapped in a couple of old towels and a BFH will bring that area down.

Larry
 
I bought a NOS fender for a 73 camaro for 20 bucks once. I got it home and was all excited to put it on, I get it on the car and bolt it down and the whole fender was about 5 inches too far forward but all the bolt holes lined up just fine! Turns out that the factory messed up and were one spot weld off center so I just drilled out the spot welds, moved it back, rewelded it and was done with it.

(GM plant worker)HMMMMM puttin me on fenders again--- I'll show you!!! LOL
 
Loosen all the bolts along the top except for the front 2. This will allow the fender to raise up as you pull back to get the bottom of the gap even. Once that is done and its lined at the door you can tighten down the top bolts. If its a little high right at the cowl, a piece of 2X4 wrapped in a couple of old towels and a BFH will bring that area down.

Larry

I knew somebody has done this before!!!! I've had to use the old 2x4 wrapped in towels before on other cars, just needed to know where to put it and how hard to hit it. Thanks Larry, Will try it tomorrow.
 
Car could be sagging down at the cowl. Put a jack under it in the area of the door-fender gap and jack it up. I'm betting the gap will close up. If the car isn't tweaked too bad it should stay after the bolts are tightened. If not you will need to tie the front down, then jack it up as described to spring it back to level.
Dallas
 
Car could be sagging down at the cowl. Put a jack under it in the area of the door-fender gap and jack it up. I'm betting the gap will close up. If the car isn't tweaked too bad it should stay after the bolts are tightened. If not you will need to tie the front down, then jack it up as described to spring it back to level.
Dallas

Dallas
Thats what I was afraid of so I want to make sure it's corrected before the frame connectors go on. I'm going to make some further checks on the hoist this weekend before going any farther. Thanks, Kev
 
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