Will not shift out of 1st

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440+6scamp

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I'll admit to not knowing much about autos and can use any advice you guys have. I just drove my car for the 1st time since I began the big block swap 5 years ago. Everything was great except the trans would not shift. I had it in drive and wound it up well past where I thought it should shift. I then put it in 1st and manually shifted to 2nd but it didn't shift.

The trans (727) was rebuilt about 3 years ago. It's got a 2200 converter.

Any thoughts?
 
The kickdown probably was too tight... it reached it's full travel before WOT. Also, due to the shifter linkage on the Lokar shifter I'm using, the kickdown lever can't return all the way. It releases far enough so that there's not any tension on the internal spring but it could travel farther forward if the linkage wasn't in the way.

So, would having the cable adjusted too tight or the lever not being able to fully return cause it to not shift (even when I manually put it in 2nd)?
 
..........What do u mean theres no room 4 it?.....what is ur car?........yup, kd to tight causes that........kim...........
 
No room for the factory style linkage. I bought one and tried to fit it up but my motor is too close to the firewall. I've got a '74 Scamp.

I'll play w/ the cable and see if that gets it.
 
I have a book on the 727 and these are the things it says when there is no upshift:

- Fluid too low
- Throttle linkage adjustment
- Kickdown band adjustment
- line pressure too high or low
- Governor malfunction or sealing rings
- Valve body malfunction
- Sticking accumulator, broken accumulator, rings, etc
- Malfunctioning clutch or servo
- Oil pump malfunction
- front clutch worn or malfunctioning
- broken input shaft or reaction shaft rings
- shift lever adjustment

My 904 doesn't go into 3rd so trying to see if it needs a rebuild or if an adjustment/ service would fix this.
 
Thanks 72. I talked to several folks that suggested low fluid. Hopefully that's it. This was the 1st time that I drove the car so maybe it took more fluid once it was in gear? I'll check that 1st.
 
if that doesn't do it for you, you might consider a manual shift valve body. More positive shifts and your trans will last longer.
 
Are you checking the fluid the right way? I think the proper way is to start the car, while you're holding the brake, shift it into every gear for a few seconds then leave it in neutral and check the fluid while it is running.
 
Ok, fluid level is good. I adjusted the kickdown several times. I tried setting it so that the level reaches its full travel when the throttle is wide open. I then gave it a little more slack then that. 3rd, I unhooked it completely so the level never moved. The trans still will not shift. I can run it up to 3000 rpm being easy on the gas and it will not shift. What's the next easiest thing to check?
 
Going over the list that 72plymouth posted...
-fluid level... good
-throttle linkage adjustment... I assume the kickdown, tried in mulitply spots
-line pressure too high or low... I assume this is controlled by the kickdown and again I've tried multilple adjustments
-oil pump malfuction... it seems to be pumping fluid (there's fluid at the cooler
-shift lever adjustment... it's good

So, what should I look for now? Stuck governor? Can I check this w/ the trans in the car?
 
Something else I should probably mention... the trans sat on the garage floor for 4 years w/ no fluid after it was rebuilt. Could this have anything to do w/ it?
 
I talked to a tranny guy. He suggested putting it i reverse at 15 mph to free the governor if it was stuck. I did this 4 times w/ no luck.

I have to drop the trans to get to the governor due to the tight fit in my car so I decided to pull the valve body out before dropping the trans. It looks to be fine. All of the balls are in the correct spot. The valves are free. I haven't removed the valves yet. The only thing that looks wrong is the 3/8" ball and spring is missing. The manual I have refers to this as a high pressure relief valve. What does it do and what happens if it's missing? When the trans was rebuilt the guy put a shift kit in it. Would a shift kit call for removing this relief valve?
 
Found it! When I had the trans rebuilt I asked the guy to put a shift kit in. He used a B&M. The kit provides a 1/4" check ball to be placed inside the spring of the 1-2 shift control valve but states for off road use only (??). He put the ball in the 1-2 shift valve. The 1-2 valve seems to only have about a 1/4" of movement as is so w/ the ball inside it wouldn't move at all. I removed the ball and put it back together. Now it shifts great. (see the .pdf instruction in the link)

http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Ch...-66-77-Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth-TF-A-727-A-904

How should the trans shift w/ a shift kit? Under part throttle (just cruising) it shifts to 2nd around 1500 and you can barely feel it. Should it shift hard when you're easy on the gas? It does shift hard if I manually shift it. Should I open it back up and put the ball in the correct spot?

BTW, this was my 1st real ride in a big block a-body. These things are awesome!
 
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