myasylum
Well-Known Member
the only ECU I have right now is for the stock /6. Will that work for the initial break in of that engine? Is it drivable that way?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Will the /6 ECU work with a V8?
- Thread starter myasylum
- Start date
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ramenth
Gratis persona
Depends. Is the ECU you have meant for a single or dual pick up coil distributor and which distributor do you have? Trying to remember here, but I believe the dual pick up used the five pin ECU and the single pick up used the four pin ECU.
myasylum
Well-Known Member
Well, I'll be getting a new stock Electronic distributor tomorrow. I have a Blaster II coil.
Here is a picture of my ECU. Maybe you can tell from there??? I don't know?
Here is a picture of my ECU. Maybe you can tell from there??? I don't know?
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
ramenth i thought the same thing. but i tried it and both worked ok. if there is 5 pins inside it should work on both systems. /6 or v8 you should be ok
thats what i found..
thats what i found..
73SWING
Active Member
they work on both. the 5 pin uses a 4 pin ballast resistor while the 4 pin ecu works with the two pin resistor
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf < that will tell ya all you need to know on the install.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf < that will tell ya all you need to know on the install.
myasylum
Well-Known Member
Is it true that spark would drop after 4000 RPM or so, even with the Blaster 2?
If not, then why would anyone upgrade the ECU?
Thanks!
If not, then why would anyone upgrade the ECU?
Thanks!
73SWING
Active Member
It falls off a bit. I noticed the difference from the stock unit and the chrome unit. it just depends on how many 4000k+ passes you plan on throwing at it.
myasylum
Well-Known Member
O.k. Got it!
I am now looking at me Blaster 2 coil. It came with a ballast resistor. If I am going with electronic ignition, I don't need this right?
I don't need the MSD 5,6, or 7 blaster ignitions to use this coil do I???
What is the point of those boxes?
I am now looking at me Blaster 2 coil. It came with a ballast resistor. If I am going with electronic ignition, I don't need this right?
I don't need the MSD 5,6, or 7 blaster ignitions to use this coil do I???
What is the point of those boxes?
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
You are going to need the ballast with the stock ECU but not if you run an MSD box.
myasylum
Well-Known Member
Is there a ballast resistor on the car now? Do i just replace it?
It was my understand that a ballast resistor was only needed if you had points. That is wrong?
It was my understand that a ballast resistor was only needed if you had points. That is wrong?
iv used the same set up took the 6 out and put a 440 in hooked up the wires good for 5000. why spend the extra money on after market ignition parts for what you are doing. just trying to help
myasylum
Well-Known Member
73SWING
Active Member
there should be one on the drivers side firewall. It may be good to use, but i would grab a new one as precaution. The link i posted will show how to wire it to the ecu. with the blaster coil, you DO need the resistor, as the blasters are not internally resisted.
myasylum
Well-Known Member
So to switch from 4 prong ballast to 2 prong... this is it?
"On the first connector of the new ballast resistor, plug the terminal containing the 14 gauge brown wire onto one terminal of the new ballast resistor.
On the second connector, plug the terminal containing the 16 gauge dark blue wire onto the other terminal of the new ballast resistor. The unused
terminal on each connector will be left empty. As stated in step #5, they fed the fifth pin on the ECU and are not required on the new four pin ECU"
You just attach one brown wire, and one dark blue, and the other two just hang there??
Even if I'm still using the old 5 pin ECU for now?
"On the first connector of the new ballast resistor, plug the terminal containing the 14 gauge brown wire onto one terminal of the new ballast resistor.
On the second connector, plug the terminal containing the 16 gauge dark blue wire onto the other terminal of the new ballast resistor. The unused
terminal on each connector will be left empty. As stated in step #5, they fed the fifth pin on the ECU and are not required on the new four pin ECU"
You just attach one brown wire, and one dark blue, and the other two just hang there??
Even if I'm still using the old 5 pin ECU for now?
myasylum
Well-Known Member
"You just attach one brown wire, and one dark blue, and the other two just hang there??
Even if I'm still using the old 5 pin ECU for now?"
???:dontknow:???
Even if I'm still using the old 5 pin ECU for now?"
???:dontknow:???
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
I am pretty sure if you are running the 5 pin ECU you need the 4 pin ballest.
Wiring suck! Don't it?
Wiring suck! Don't it?
myasylum
Well-Known Member
Thats why I'm thinking about leaving the old ballast in there. At least for the initial start up with the Blaster 2.
That should be o.k. right????
That should be o.k. right????
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
If you are going to run a new dist, with blaster II coil, just put it in and leave the rest of it alone. It should work. I think the only time you would have to change any wiring is if you go to a 4 pin box. That resister will work for you as it is.
dgc333
Well-Known Member
The ECU between a \6 and v8 are the same whether it is 5-pin or 4-pin is based on the year of manufacture. The early electronic ignitions used the 5-pin ECU and a 4-pin ballast resistor. Later systems did away with the 5th wire and reverted back to a 2-pin ballast resistor.
A 4-pin ECU is a drop into a 5-pin wired system and requires no changes and most aftermarket ecus are 4-pin. If the ECU is a 5-pin then it needs the extra wire and 4-pin ballast resistor.
The output of all inductive ignition systems drops off as rpms rise. If the system is designed to to provide adequate output at high rpms to much current flows at low rpms and the coil will over heat and fail. If it is designed to work at low rpms you may not have enough output to fire the plugs at high rpms. Mopar got around this dilemma by using a ballast resistor. The ballast resistor changes it's resistance with temperature so at low rpms it heats up and reduces the current to the coil preventing it from over heating. At high rpms it cools off and allows more current to the coil for a higher output. Modern electronics can vary the dwell with rpm and do not require a ballast.
A Blaster II coil requires a ballast resistor, you should use the one MSD recomends to get maximum out put.
A 4-pin ECU is a drop into a 5-pin wired system and requires no changes and most aftermarket ecus are 4-pin. If the ECU is a 5-pin then it needs the extra wire and 4-pin ballast resistor.
The output of all inductive ignition systems drops off as rpms rise. If the system is designed to to provide adequate output at high rpms to much current flows at low rpms and the coil will over heat and fail. If it is designed to work at low rpms you may not have enough output to fire the plugs at high rpms. Mopar got around this dilemma by using a ballast resistor. The ballast resistor changes it's resistance with temperature so at low rpms it heats up and reduces the current to the coil preventing it from over heating. At high rpms it cools off and allows more current to the coil for a higher output. Modern electronics can vary the dwell with rpm and do not require a ballast.
A Blaster II coil requires a ballast resistor, you should use the one MSD recomends to get maximum out put.
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