Windshield Sealant for 70 Swinger

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70SwingerGuy

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So I picked up an 11oz tube of CRL windshield and body sealant to use when changing my windshield, but since there needs to be two layers of sealant- gasket to pinchweld, and glass to gasket, will one tube be enough, or should I get another one? At 50 bucks a pop, Id rather not buy another one if I dont need to.
Thanks FABO
 
Recently I had to use CRL 7708 (in place of the 3M 08509 that is no longer available) between the gasket and the car, and Permatex 81730 between the gasket and the windshield.

I wouldn't use the CRL between the glass and gasket.
 
And its the 7708 that I have also, why wouldnt you use it between glass and gasket?
I've done a number of front/rear glass on different vehicles. Not a professional, just learned a few things. Just my take.

7708 or similar is extremely messy and gets on everything, it's the anti-seize of windshields.
7708 is fantastic for gasket to body as it does just that, gets on everything, fills in all the imperfections and small spaces on the body.
In the case where stainless trim is installed directly over the same area, as 7708 doesn't cure, it will conform to the space between the gasket and trim, and one can even add additional 7708 first and it will become one with the first round of 7708.

I have found the factory used a similar material between the gasket and vehicle.

Permatex 81730 is specifically made for glass, it's clear, takes very little, goes on easy, and it cures.
So there is a nice, clean, invisible, solidified seal between the gasket and glass.

I used very little Permatex 81730, just enough, not down at the base or the edges of the glass, not shoving it in the channel until it overflows and squeezes out all over inside and out.

Pull the gasket a bit away from the glass, put in a little 81730, let go, wipe excess, done.

Both my 58 and 62 Dodges had drains at the bottom rear corners of the windshield gasket.

If water/moisture gets in between the glass and gasket, or in some cases the lock strip (the rear window on my 62 has a separate center rubber lock strip), it needs a clean, clear, unobstructed path to get out.

When I pulled the glass on my 58, iirc the 58, a prior owner went overboard with window sealant and the bottom channel of the gasket was full of water.
Nowhere to go, no way out, wicking up between the tinted glass, freezing and thawing year round.

If one uses 7708 between the glass and gasket, it will prevent moisture from escaping.

Esthetically, any 7708 that squeezes out between the glass and gasket, outside or inside, will attract any and all dirt, dust, debris, insects, basically become windshield edge fly paper.
Even the smallest bit of it, you'll see a thin line of dirt around the glass inside and out.

Wow, my apologies for over-explaining that one, geez.
 
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So I picked up an 11oz tube of CRL windshield and body sealant to use when changing my windshield, but since there needs to be two layers of sealant- gasket to pinchweld, and glass to gasket, will one tube be enough, or should I get another one? At 50 bucks a pop, Id rather not buy another one if I dont need to.
Thanks FABO
One tube is more than enough. Cut the tip small - it doesn't take much.
 

I've done a number of front/rear glass on different vehicles. Not a professional, just learned a few things. Just my take.

7708 or similar is extremely messy and gets on everything, it's the anti-seize of windshields.
7708 is fantastic for gasket to body as it does just that, gets on everything, fills in all the imperfections and small spaces on the body.
In the case where stainless trim is installed directly over the same area, as 7708 doesn't cure, it will conform to the space between the gasket and trim, and one can even add additional 7708 first and it will become one with the first round of 7708.

I have found the factory used a similar material between the gasket and vehicle.

Permatex 81730 is specifically made for glass, it's clear, takes very little, goes on easy, and it cures.
So there is a nice, clean, invisible, solidified seal between the gasket and glass.

I used very little Permatex 81730, just enough, not down at the base or the edges of the glass, not shoving it in the channel until it overflows and squeezes out all over inside and out.

Pull the gasket a bit away from the glass, put in a little 81730, let go, wipe excess, done.

Both my 58 and 62 Dodges had drains at the bottom rear corners of the windshield gasket.

If water/moisture gets in between the glass and gasket, or in some cases the lock strip (the rear window on my 62 has a separate center rubber lock strip), it needs a clean, clear, unobstructed path to get out.

When I pulled the glass on my 58, iirc the 58, a prior owner went overboard with window sealant and the bottom channel of the gasket was full of water.
Nowhere to go, no way out, wicking up between the tinted glass, freezing and thawing year round.

If one uses 7708 between the glass and gasket, it will prevent moisture from escaping.

Esthetically, any 7708 that squeezes out between the glass and gasket, outside or inside, will attract any and all dirt, dust, debris, insects, basically become windshield edge fly paper.
Even the smallest bit of it, you'll see a thin line of dirt around the glass inside and out.

Wow, my apologies for over-explaining that one, geez.
Thanks very much for the good information, no need to apologize for explaining something well!!
 
Did you do the same for the gasket to body with the 7708.... install gasket, lift and apply a small bead, let go and wipe?
Cleaned gasket throughly, especially the channel for the rail.
Wire wheeled the entire windshield rail, applied Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

Then fiitted the gasket on the car, pulled the gasket back in sections, and filled the gasket channel and covered the rail with 7708.
Not a small bead.

Pulled each section on and off a bit to make sure it was making contact to both sides.

Roughly at 38:20. I didn't have the Permatex yet, but did by the time I did the rear window.


Rear window at end. Lots of stupidity but it might help. Once again, not an expert.
 
Cleaned gasket throughly, especially the channel for the rail.
Wire wheeled the entire windshield rail, applied Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

Then fiitted the gasket on the car, pulled the gasket back in sections, and filled the gasket channel and covered the rail with 7708.
Not a small bead.

Pulled each section on and off a bit to make sure it was making contact to both sides.

Roughly at 38:20. I didn't have the Permatex yet, but did by the time I did the rear window.


Rear window at end. Lots of stupidity but it might help. Once again, not an expert.

Thanks again, much appreciated!
 
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