Wiring help, ignition issues

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crazypurple70

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From the begining.... I have completely overhauled a 1970 dodge dart swinger 340 from the ground up. Upon re-installing the wiring harnesses, I have encountered several issues. First, I put in a complete MSD ignition, distributor, box (6al), and blaster coil. I have the coil wires correct i believe, I also have voltge at the red wire of the volt gauge in the dash.
#1- does the voltage passing through this gauge affect the ignition voltage as the starter does not crank withe the key, however if i bypass the starter at the relay it does crank, :shaking2: #2 also i have no voltage at the coil. are these problems related? :sad1: #3 I believe there may be no voltage in the fuse box.... I have the service manual and have done more wire tracing than i care to discuss at this time.....Anyone feeling helpful? Thanks in advance!!!!!!!
 
Is your gauge a volt or amp gauge? and is power on both sides if amp?
 
If you have a manuel trans, the clutch start wire may have been disconnected. It will stop it from cranking. Just my 2 cents. I have had this problem in the past.
 
When you by-pass the switch and it cranks then there has to be voltage going to the coil...right? You should voltage at the coil when you turn the switch on. Where do you have the hot wire going from the MSD box connected to? On my 67 Barracuda there is a blue wire and a brown wire that I had to connect together (after removeing the ballast resistor) from the switch to the ACCEL 300+ ignition system's hot wire or it would not crank. At first I hooked to the blue wire and it wouldn't crank but when I hooked the brown and the blue together then hooked those to the box it fired right up. I know that you should have voltage at the amp guage on the red and also on the black. The black is going to go to the fuse box and makes everything hot.
 
sumrod said:
Is your gauge a volt or amp gauge? and is power on both sides if amp?
At -40 & +40 on the original dash I would guess it's an amp gauge, the question I have is does power flow through the gauge?, and feed other components down the line.....Thanks
 
mullinax95 said:
When you by-pass the switch and it cranks then there has to be voltage going to the coil...right? You should voltage at the coil when you turn the switch on. Where do you have the hot wire going from the MSD box connected to? On my 67 Barracuda there is a blue wire and a brown wire that I had to connect together (after removeing the ballast resistor) from the switch to the ACCEL 300+ ignition system's hot wire or it would not crank. At first I hooked to the blue wire and it wouldn't crank but when I hooked the brown and the blue together then hooked those to the box it fired right up. I know that you should have voltage at the amp guage on the red and also on the black. The black is going to go to the fuse box and makes everything hot.
When i bypass the switch it is at the starter relay between the battery and the starter itself... The msd coil is hooked to the box, that leaves a white and red wire. According to msd, the white and red wiring does not get used together. Also, the red wire is to get hooked to a keyed hot ignition wire....which i have not been able to find yet since i beleive parts of the harness are not pwered yet...Thanks :sad:
 
the 2 wires that used to go to the ballast resistor are what powers the red ign hot wire for the msd. the only wires on the coil should be the black and orange from the msd box. is your neutral safety switch hooked up? on the starter relay, (for an auto car) there will be a brown wire at a corner of it that should go to that nss. if not, make a wire and mount the ring terminal end to the mounting screw and the other spade end onto the starter relay. are you using a test light to find power?
 
With all of the changes you are making and the fact that you are redoing the rest of the car why don't you think about putting a new harness in it. I would also say good bye to the ammeter in the car. If it is bad then you will get 0 power to the rest of the car.
 
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