Wooden Rotisserie Question

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dibbons

dibbons

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What does the other side of this wooden one look like? Are the two ends tied together some way?

And does a non-convertible (i.e. '65 Barracuda) need the opening in the doors reinforced (weld a pipe in the opening) before using a rotisserie?

Thank you.

wooden RolltisserieVertical.jpg
 
Rusty Rat Rod gave it his complements on another thread where this foto came from, must be safe and sturdy (and I know a good carpenter already).
 
dibbons said:
What does the other side of this wooden one look like? Are the two ends tied together some way?

And does a non-convertible (i.e. '65 Barracuda) need the opening in the doors reinforced (weld a pipe in the opening) before using a rotisserie?

Thank you.

View attachment 1715486872
Click to expand...
bare body? yeah, I think it could work. I'm a little sceptical of how much leverage it would take to roll over and back, and how much control you'd have. But it might be just fine.
 
dibbons said:
What does the other side of this wooden one look like? Are the two ends tied together some way?

And does a non-convertible (i.e. '65 Barracuda) need the opening in the doors reinforced (weld a pipe in the opening) before using a rotisserie?

Thank you.

View attachment 1715486872
Click to expand...

Diagonal braces from outer top to center bottom, bolted or gusset plates.
 
That one appears to only be attached to the ends of the car, so it’s using the chassis as support which isn’t ideal if you’re doing structural work. I think that one would be kinda sketchy, especially rolling it over. I’d gusset the legs and have some outriggers to attach when it goes from one position to the other. Static up or down isn’t hard, the transition is where life gets interesting.

opinions will vary but with a ‘vert I would use some kind of door bars at the minimum before putting it on a rotisserie. Doesn’t have to be fancy but tying it together at cowl level is a good idea. With a hard top it would depend on why the car’s going on a rotisserie- if the plan is panel replacement or structural chassis work some additional bracing would be a good idea.

68383GTS said:
Wood oh hell no....you must not value your car.
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Well that’s an ignorant statement. You can build a rotisserie out of wood that’s stronger than its metal counterparts if you do it right.

Homemade rotisserie’s can be sketchy regardless of what they’re made out of, you definitely have to pay attention to balance points and make sure you have strength where you need it or real bad things can happen real fast.

But you could make a great rotisserie out of wood if you know what you’re doing. And a lousy one out of metal if you don’t.
 
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69FBCuda said:
Diagonal braces from outer top to center bottom, bolted or gusset plates.
Click to expand...

I am having a hard time picturing that in my mind. Is that bracing what is shown in the foto (the hidden side) or is that a suggestion for something to add on (to the top or bottom)?

Here's more:



 
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The whole second floor of my house is supported by wood . Dont see why wood wont support 1000 lb chassis .
 
cottonwood-trestle.jpg

I think this train is pretty heavy. Looks like wood holding it up.

I wish I had room for a wood rotisserie. That's a great idea.
 
Awesome ideas. I love to build things out of wood. But I never thought about a rotisserie. I seen them made out of pipe also where you roll it up on it's side.
 
This is the version my carpenter completed yesterday. I had believed the '65 Barracuda rear bumper brackets bolted to the frame like the front bumper, but taking a second look it now it seems they attach not that securely.

my rotissiere 1.png


my rotissiere 2.png
 
TheGrateRonzini said:
Another Rotisserie Post
post #10 is a different style of wood one. I’m sure both have their advantages. Not mine, I almost built one, but scored a steel one instead. I probably would have used 2” rigid nipple for the ends. This one looks lightView attachment 1715487943
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I like this design! The one in the first post doesn't look like it rotates, but this one does. Man, looks like I've got yet another project when I get my dedicated shop....
 
After some fine tuning with spacer blocks, finally got the wooden "rotisserie" finished, up, and over. The only scary part was when my end started to slide a little instead of tilt up.

It was pretty heavy at the very beginning of the lift, but then became easier the higher up we went. Four of us were on hand to turn it over. Two of us could have done it, but I felt a twinge in my lower back right away and decided to wait for more help. The biggest doubt I had was whether or not it would be likely to fall back down once it was on its side. It seemed stable, but we wedged a plank in between the vehicle and a divot in the floor just in case (as well as a couple of wimpy ropes).

I told the owner of the shop that from now on he would have no more excuses for getting it up and painted. I already have the factory white (acrylic enamel/hardener) on hand.

DSC07272.JPG


DSC07271.JPG


DSC07273.JPG


DSC07277.JPG


DSC07278.JPG
 
dibbons said:
How much does a '65 Abody weigh anyway, stripped except for the K member, spindles, and steering column?
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Not much.
With mine on my home built rotisserie, i could open/close doors with no effect.
 
A carpet wrapped around the radiused part may stop the sliding.
 
TheGrateRonzini said:
Another Rotisserie Post
post #10 is a different style of wood one. I’m sure both have their advantages. Not mine, I almost built one, but scored a steel one instead. I probably would have used 2” rigid nipple for the ends. This one looks lightView attachment 1715487943
Click to expand...
that's mine. Its 1" pipe, theres a flange on the back side of the wood, then a 4" square plate with a hole in it on the front side of the wood so the weight didn't "bend" it through the wood. 1.5 or 2 might have been better, but it's not EMT, its rigid, and the weight is in shear. I have disassembled and re assembled it a couple times during the build. I had to drill new pivot holes about 2" lower, it was getting to be a ***** to rotate and support after the glass came out, the holey metal got replaced, and the Subframes and torque boxes went in. I supported the subframes on jackstands, then lowered the car onto them for welding. I moved once in the middle of this as well. I had to replace one of the 4X4s because it had bowed causing a bind when trying to rotate. I had wanted a steel one, but at the time, funds were short, I didn't have a welder, & I wanted to get busy getting rid of undercoating and assessing the project. 5 years later, (frowny face) I still have a wooden rotisserie. I also needed the car slung low to the floor where I lived because the garage was really low. I could rotate it while still 1/2 in the door.
 
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