would like opinions

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theothergarth

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Location
Cocoa, Florida
Over the last year I have come to expect fantastic bits of info and advice from many members. My son and I continue to work on the car (73 Duster) to get it road worthy. I had a friend ask me the other day about the drive train and there were a few items I could not remember what we had put in. So, I sat down today and put together a list of specs and I would value opinions on our choices. Let me know if I left out any pertinent information


318 block bored .04 over
Windage tray
Stock crank and rods
keith black 167 pistons
302 heads with 1.88 Int/1.6 exh
Comp XE275HL cam
Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap
Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb
TTI step headers and full dual 2.5" exhaust
904 Torqueflite
8.75 (741) sure grip rear end w/ 3.55 gearset
 
Depends on what you're doing with the engine/car. Instead of the TTis you could use Doug's headers (save some money there). Also I'm not a fan of windage trays, I'd go with a crank scraper (I have a crank scraper both up and down stroke and Teflon bladed) and a stud girdle (have one in mine) plus havin one is added insurance. Every motor I build gets a stud girdle.
 
It's mainly going to be a street cruiser. It will actually be the extra car in the family for my son to drive to high school. I did consider Dougs instead, but liked the TTIs better. I hadn't heard anybody talk about crank scrapers when I was planning the build, and I didn't think the stud girdle was necessary given it's intended purpose. I do see your point about added insurance though
 
thats a pretty nice setup... the only things that i would recommend to improve the "fun factor" (reliability, get in 'n go) would be the fuel system. make sure you have a fresh fuel pump, lines are not clogged up and the same inside the fuel tank. i've heard you can get brand new tanks for ~100 bucks nowadays. beware getting a new sending unit unless you need it because a lot of the repops are not right and your fuel guage doesnt work right. but a clean tank and clean fuel lines go a long ways to making it run smooth. and the cost is not exorbitant.
 
agreed....as a matter of fact...It's a brand new tank. I did get a new top mount "fuel cell" type sending unit and modified the tank for it. I had to tweak it a little but now it seems to be spot on with my new Autometer gauge. All the rubber hose has been replaced and the steel line cleaned. Fuel is being sent to the carb via a new Holley Red electric pump at the tank.
 
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