Would like to get some more oomph from my 318

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fnaramore said:
One quick thing that would help is to get a taller air filter, remember, carbs mainly pull air from the sides so the filter top isn't adding too much, though I do have one myself haha I don't have a part number but if you just go on Summit Racing, put in your car info and search headers they will come up. Just be prepared that they most likely will NOT line up with where your manifold collectors are, will have to do a bit of exhaust routing. Iv never had an issue with Eddy carbs running lean but your first step there would be changing the metering rods to richen it out a bit
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I have no more room as my wingnut is about 1/4 inch from hitting the hood...
 
318willrun said:
1st, Nice looking car!!! Now on porting the heads, if you visit my "low dollar 318 build" in the small block section, I have a video that explains how to home port heads. Several here have followed it and it's made it easy for them.
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Ok I will check it out. I did glance through that thread a little bit. Thanks for the compliment :)
 
Are you sure on the compression ratio? was it actually measured and calculated? 236@ .050 is pretty high IMO if you have low compression. But as was stated, headers and gears will make the car a whole new animal. I like the low gear set idea also.
 
I run a tall intake with a spacer and use a two inch drop air cleaner base to keep it all under a flat hood...

It will take some hammer love to make the linkage clear but with my manifold 750DP and spacer on a 318 i can still fit a good sized air cleaner under my flat hood..
 
I always feel people should start with gears and exhaust since basically every mod need those two things to get best results.

Using 3.55:1 geared 360 as a de facto standard. And keep in mind that most 3.55 geared 360 are way under geared if maximum straight line performance is your desire.

Not that you have to build your engine to keep up with a 360 of similar hp but it's a good basis to compare. 318 will make about 50 lbs-ft less than a 360 and peak 600 ish rpms higher than a similar hp 360 which means at any given mph your 318 has to turn 600 rpms more to compare . So your gonna need more gear than the average 360. A quick gorilla math is for every 20 ish cid is equal to a gear step. So your 42 under a 360 so to equal a 3.55/360 you need 3.91 at least. And if you don't want to go that high that's when you can go with a combo of lower 1st and 2nd gears in the tranny and 3.55 which will give you the similar acceleration as 3.91 in 1st, 3.73 in 2nd and obviously 3.55 in 3rd.

As for heads the stock ones are a huge cork with that cam. Down the road after the gears and exhaust heads would be my next up grade. EQ'S are Engine Quest are designed to be magnum replacement heads but are stronger and flow a lot better. Will really allow your engine to breathe and probably add another 1000 rpm to your powerband without effects down low to much. And have closed chambers which will help with your cr which is probably lower than you think if it wasn't measured. Why do you think you have 9:1 what pistons are you running any milling or decking done and which head gaskets ??
 
You need to shake those 318 logs, they are definitely killing your power.
Some type of free flowing exhaust will help.
Tti, Dougs, and yes 340 manifolds.
 
TTI headers..i'd go with more gear 3.91's and better heads..
 
Cope said:
I run a tall intake with a spacer and use a two inch drop air cleaner base to keep it all under a flat hood...

It will take some hammer love to make the linkage clear but with my manifold 750DP and spacer on a 318 i can still fit a good sized air cleaner under my flat hood..
Click to expand...

I tried doing the carb spacer and drop down, but then I was going to have to remove the hard fuel line for a flexible one and I kind of just like the hard line. If I ever put the 6 pack hood and scoop on I will for sure get a spacer and tall air cleaner.
 
273 said:
I always feel people should start with gears and exhaust since basically every mod need those two things to get best results.

Using 3.55:1 geared 360 as a de facto standard. And keep in mind that most 3.55 geared 360 are way under geared if maximum straight line performance is your desire.

Not that you have to build your engine to keep up with a 360 of similar hp but it's a good basis to compare. 318 will make about 50 lbs-ft less than a 360 and peak 600 ish rpms higher than a similar hp 360 which means at any given mph your 318 has to turn 600 rpms more to compare . So your gonna need more gear than the average 360. A quick gorilla math is for every 20 ish cid is equal to a gear step. So your 42 under a 360 so to equal a 3.55/360 you need 3.91 at least. And if you don't want to go that high that's when you can go with a combo of lower 1st and 2nd gears in the tranny and 3.55 which will give you the similar acceleration as 3.91 in 1st, 3.73 in 2nd and obviously 3.55 in 3rd.

As for heads the stock ones are a huge cork with that cam. Down the road after the gears and exhaust heads would be my next up grade. EQ'S are Engine Quest are designed to be magnum replacement heads but are stronger and flow a lot better. Will really allow your engine to breathe and probably add another 1000 rpm to your powerband without effects down low to much. And have closed chambers which will help with your cr which is probably lower than you think if it wasn't measured. Why do you think you have 9:1 what pistons are you running any milling or decking done and which head gaskets ??
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Ok cool. Thanks for the info. I think I would rather do 3.55s AND the trans gear changes than 3.91s since I street it all the time. The 8.25 I'm about to pick up has 3.23s and I was planning on running those for a while just to see how it was before swapping over to the 3.55s. Good to know on the heads. When I had the machine shop do my long block I know they did a 3 angle valve job and I am pretty sure the heads were decked. This was about 9 years ago lol. I'll have to look for the receipt. Not sure where the 9:1 came from, just was under that impression. Could be completely off.
 
The pistons are Keith Black hypereutectic pistons. Don't have a part #
 
Johnny Dart said:
You need to shake those 318 logs, they are definitely killing your power.
Some type of free flowing exhaust will help.
Tti, Dougs, and yes 340 manifolds.
Click to expand...

I was looking at TTI shorty's yesterday. Am open to whatever fits easiest to be honest. I'd rather have headers so I can get ceramic coated over the hi po manifolds but we will see when the time comes.
 
Breadburner said:
Get that thing on the juice....
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I would be open to spraying it after gears, headers, and heads. If I did spray I would want to run the lines underneath the intake so I could hide it. I like having a fairly stock look. Not sure I would spray more than 75 HP though.
 
The only Comp Cam I can recall that has .454 lift is the high energy 268H which is 268 advertised and 218 at .050.

Put a timing light on it at idle and report back... :)
 
mguner said:
The cheap headers are a pain and take a lot of the fun out of driving.
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I agree 100%..if you go with headers buy a quality brand Tti's or Dougs all the others hang too low and you'll always worry about smashing them on something,or having leaks all the time like every set of headers i ever owned until the Tti's came out some of the best money i ever spent,never hit anything and they have NEVER leaked well worth the money spent..
 
stroked340 said:
I agree 100%..if you go with headers buy a quality brand Tti's or Dougs all the others hang too low and you'll always worry about smashing them on something,or having leaks all the time like every set of headers i ever owned until the Tti's came out some of the best money i ever spent,never hit anything and they have NEVER leaked well worth the money spent..
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I was looking at the TTI shorty's last night. Would like to talk to some folks with them to make sure they do actually clear.
 
Dougs d453 clear everything. I have those on my 68 barracuda. 318 904 auto, power steering and power brakes. Have to unbolt the motor from the mounts and lift a little side to side as well as lower the power steering box a little, they go right in. You will need a 90 degree oil filter adapter to clear the right header. Would still concentrate on the axle and gears first though
 
racerdan80 said:
Dougs d453 clear everything. I have those on my 68 barracuda. 318 904 auto, power steering and power brakes. Have to unbolt the motor from the mounts and lift a little side to side as well as lower the power steering box a little, they go right in. You will need a 90 degree oil filter adapter to clear the right header. Would still concentrate on the axle and gears first though
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Ok thanks, good to know. Yeah definitely gonna do a rear end swap before anything.
 
What p/n of filter? Would like a pic to see how much they clear if you have one
 
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