Wrap around sub frame connectors

[RustyRatRod]

While all of that is true, I'm not sure you really appreciate how big of a pain in the *** those US Cartool subframe connectors are. It was easier and less time consuming for me to make my own subframe connectors from scratch. And quite frankly I don't think the US Cartool subframes do a better job at stiffening the chassis. In my opinion that's a toss up, and without a full finite element analysis on the chassis all anyone can have on the matter is an opinion.

It's not that the US Cartool subframes are bad- they're well made, high quality pieces just like everything else I've seen from US Cartool. But their design means that literally every inch of the entire length of the subframe connector has to be fit to the floor and welded. That's just a ton of surface to fit and weld. I understand why people like them, they do look more factory once they're installed. Which is exactly why I installed them on my Dart, it's a matching numbers car and I wanted to keep up some of those appearances while still making some improvements. But after installing them, there's no way I'd ever install them again unless- 1. The car has been fully media blasted, because wire wheeling the areas to be welded isn't enough 2. The car is on a rotisserie to allow for easy access

Absent those things, the US Cartool connectors are more trouble than they're worth. I've made my own subframe connectors, I've installed Hotchkis subframe connectors, I've installed US Cartool connectors. On an A-body, where the subframe connector is pretty much just a straight shot from rear rail to the crossmember, I honestly think it's just as easy to make your own as do anything else. The Hotchkis connectors are almost exactly what I made myself. I love US Cartool's other products- torque boxes, forward braces, lower radiator supports, etc. But their subframe connectors are seriously labor intensive, even compared to the other connectors out there. And expensive. For $208 you get a raw piece of 16 gauge steel that was laser cut and then bent into a rail shape. For $277 you can get a set of Hotchkis connectors, which are tubular, welded, and fully powdercoated. And for $50-$100 you can make your own out of 1.5"x3" tubing and replicate what Hotchkis sells in a few hours, and have them installed in a few hours more.

I just don't see the US Cartool connectors doing the job so much better that they're worth all that extra time and labor compared to say the Hotchkis connectors, which is another great company with a reputation for great handling cars. They do just as much or more testing as anyone, and the subframes they sell are tubular and much easier to install.

I probably don't, but I'm gonna cause I am puttin um on this 64. lol I'm gonna do it layin on the ground too.

 

[dicksmidlac]

Us cartool ones weren't that bad to install and I'd definitely do them again,no question about it.What isn't a bunch of work when you're restoring these cars?

 

[Keystone]

I followed in the footsteps of others here and made my own using 3 x 1 1/2" 14GA rectangular tube and 2 x 2" angle for the front ends for a whole $30 in material from the Amish welding shop nearby. They take some work to make and then fine tune, but in the end they fit beautifully.

The tube wants to butterfly out when you cut it open, but it was easy enough to clamp it up before welding.

The front and rear subframes are slightly offset, so you'll need a 2 degree cut on the end that meets the angle bracket if you want it to sit flush. And then the rear subframe tapers in, so I took a triangular sliver out of the back of the tube. I can sketch a dimensional drawing on CAD and post a printed pdf if you're interested.