Z bar TTI headers lol

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WAYNE0

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Finally have some time to work on my barracuda. Got the engine in, (360) 4spd trans in & the TTI headers in. I modified the Z bar like they said. Been working on putting the Z bar in for a while now & there is no way its going in. Just not enough room. Should ive put the Z bar in before the left header ? Never worked with TTI headers on an A body.
 
You have to put it in from the bottom of the car. Best done on a lift. Put the Z bar on the ball on the frame then put the bell side ball on the z bar and slide up into place and put the 2 bolts in.
 
I’ve got a lakewood and tti 2” on 440. Definitely no simple task. I use super small rubber bands that I borrow from my 6yo daughter’s hair supplies to hold the bushings together. I can’t tell ya how many times I’ve had to blow one out from between the frame and where the floor comes in. But yea, frame side, then either have the z bar loaded with trans side pivot and manipulate to the holes, or get the bar in, then slide in trans side and to the holes. Good luck
 
Well i got it in. Then putting the 2 bolts in for the ball stud to the bell was a chore. So then i put in the clutch fork adjusting rod. Ok now we are getting some where. LOL not so fast. Went to put the starter in "WHAT THE" the Z bar hits the starter & gives it no movement. Ok so it looks like all i have to do is bend it about 1/4 of an inch to the drivers side. So unbolt it all. I went to take the rod that goes to the pedal off the Z bar & it breaks. I got the Z bar out & as i am heating it with the torch to bend it i run out of gas. So i figured id try to weld up the clutch pedal rod that broke. Just the tip of it broke off. LOL out of welding gas also. OK im done. At least i know how to put it in. If it isnt one thing its another.
 
Go with a hydraulic or cable style clutch.
 
American power train, think that's correct, but there's no free lunch there either. Search back almost a year in threads, several people have gone hyd.
 
What some do not understand, your engine mounts at the block can change the position of your engine or the clutch linkage etc. Loose bolts, pick engine up tighten, loose, let engine down and tighten. You would be surprised at the movement, 1/2"?
Might make a difference at keeping your bellcrank level. Always a way to fine tune little offsets. That clutch pedal rod is available.
 
not familliar with the hydraulic style any sites to get on to get some prices & info ? thanks
Yeah it ain't a complete bolt on, but it takes up a LOT less space.
 
I was seriously considering hyd until I finally got my fork to work properly. It had a 10 7/8" fork in the car when I bought it, but didn't work right with the lakewood. The 12 1/2" fork changed angles and had to do a lot of cutting, welding, and motor mount adj to get it all in alignment. It works now, but I was reading up on the +'s and -'s of the hyd.
 
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