Ever check the mechanical advance to see if it is free?
Ever check the mechanical advance to see if it is free?
i wouldn't change the distributor unless it's faulty, or a points dist.
is it electronic? if so maybe just put an MSD streetfire ignition box on it.
if the motor has a stock camshaft in it then, the factory dist timing is fine. which will be about 28-30* mechanical advance most likely, so you set the initial timing around 8* advanced, adjust your idle mix on the carb and set idle speed. on to the next thing...
Your timing can be 5 degrees late and it won't cause a sputter. Even 10*, and maybe more. I know because I have a dash-mounted, dial-back timing device with a working range of 15 degrees.If the timing is at least close,think about it; as long as the coil can light the fire at the sparkplug tip,
and you have already proven that it can by driving thru the problem;forget about ignition.
If it's related to throttle input, it's a mixture issue.IMO you have exactly 2 possibilities, the transition circuit, or the pumpshot.
The transition, in the case of a metering rod carb, is controlled by the step-up rods and more specifically the springs under them........which have to be synchronized to the manifold vacuum.
...And that leads to suspecting manifold vacuum, which leads straight back to the basics, testing the compression,the idle-vacuum,and maybe the valve springs, or lash.Then the fuel, the fuel level,the fuelpump output,finally the carb.You can keep on working on the carb, or jump in anywhere you like, but I doubt you'll get to the bottom of it in a reasonable period of time. I'm old, and I learned the value of basics many many years ago, about spring of 1968.
There's only one way IMO, that it could be timing related, and that would be if it was severely over advanced or severely late, both of which lead to vacuum issues, and thus step-up issues, and thus transition issues.
In any case
We're in your corner.
I agree ^, I don't think timing is the problem.
Did you put an 8.5 or 9.5" hg power valve in the carb?
just to the be sure, the distributor has only a single wire? not two wires going to a black rectangular plug??
I agree ^, I don't think timing is the problem.
Did you put an 8.5 or 9.5" hg power valve in the carb?
just to the be sure, the distributor has only a single wire? not two wires going to a black rectangular plug??
Post 35Those are usually spring loaded right? Are those normally visible on stock mopar distros or do I have to tear apart the top part of the distributor?
It failed before the fuel pump replacement, it flows excellently now.did you ever do the fuel volume test, if no surging in 1st gear or 2nd gear at wot its a fuel delivery problem
Like throwing parts at it, man I wish I was Better off. Back read once and a while and follow the advice. I am out!Post 35
Like throwing parts at it, man I wish I was Better off. Back read once and a while and follow the advice. I am out!
I am truly out of line on that I just see so many people just waiting for a magic troubleshooting procedure and skip steps it is frustraighting to see. Seriously man I was out of line.
The wiring of the plug wires is a mess. Have you checked for correct firing order?
Save the old locking ring the new ones do not seal properly, the gasket is ok the ring is not.
Sending units are a crap shoot, either they are good or not, when it is out check it with a ohm meter before buying one I believe it is 24-75 ohms full travel. Nos is the best but serious $$$$ if you can find one. I got lucky I found one in a parts store of all places in mine. There is a few threads on them with recommendations just do a search. There are also a bunch of troubleshooting threads on them do it before you order anything can be something really simple like no ground strap on the sending unit to the frame.
Any other gauges not working?, not reading back.