Pulling motor

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Bts68cuda1

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Pulling a 318 from a 68 Cuda to replace the freeze plugs with Brass ones. The car has to stay stationary so and I only want to pull the motor one weekend and replace it the following weekend. I am asking for tips or issues to know ahead of time. I've pulled a motor or two about 20+ years ago but not to much memory to detail especially when it comes to pulling and leaving the trans in the car. is the transmission going to leak ? does it have to be supported? does anything need to be replaced on the transmission when its out? What should I try to do a few days before that might give me a problem prior to removal? Again its not difficult being only about 20 bolts and its out but memory is vague. Thanks again for any info.
 
Trans will need to be supported while engine is out. wheeled floor jack works well. torque converter bolts, engine-to-trans bolts and exhaust bolts are usually the only troublesome ones. double check that all wiring is disconnected before yanking the engine, surprising how strong a forgotten ground strap can be!
 
* If you have to remove the dipstick tube to get it out of the way, you'll need to drain some/most of the trans fluid.

* You'll probably have to disconnect the exhaust/headers somewhere so you can get them out of the way. Remove, tie or bungee them out of the way.

* During the week while the car is sitting, put something besides a floor jack to support the trans, like a stack of boards. Floor jacks sometimes bleed down.

* Coordinate raising & lowering the trans while pulling and installing the engine so they don't bind up.

* Pulling the radiator can make it easier. But trans cooler lines & fittings will need to be plugged at that end.

* Remove the oil filter so it doesn't get damaged during the swap. Just remember that if you turn the crank, like when removing flexplate bolts, oil may be pumped out. Either plan on replacing it either way or put an old one on.

* There will always be some coolant left in the block, so be aware of that when pulling the engine and swapping freeze plugs. Clean the area very well. Can't hurt to use a little sealant.

* A large socket that fits inside the freeze plug cup can help installing them straight. Tap in carefully.

* Take some photos of anything you might forget how it's oriented. (i.e.: belts, pulleys, brackets, etc.) Label any wires & connections if that might help.

* Remove the distributor cap & wires so they don't get damaged against the firewall during the swap.

* Good time to check/replace the motor mounts if they are old & deteriorated.

* Spray paint an area around ONE flexplate ear & converter before removal so it goes back the same way. One lug is offset.

* Be careful not to pinch any wires between the block & bellhousing when reinstalling.
 
When the engine is out support the front of the transmission..put a trans. bolt back in on both sides of the bellhousing place a bar underneath them going from frame rail to frame rail..
 
Spray down the exhaust manifold bolts/nuts (and any other bolts that could be seized) with PB Blaster each day for several days before you start.
 
Locomotion said:
* If you have to remove the dipstick tube to get it out of the way, you'll need to drain some/most of the trans fluid.

* You'll probably have to disconnect the exhaust/headers somewhere so you can get them out of the way. Remove, tie or bungee them out of the way.

* During the week while the car is sitting, put something besides a floor jack to support the trans, like a stack of boards. Floor jacks sometimes bleed down.

* Coordinate raising & lowering the trans while pulling and installing the engine so they don't bind up.

* Pulling the radiator can make it easier. But trans cooler lines & fittings will need to be plugged at that end.

* Remove the oil filter so it doesn't get damaged during the swap. Just remember that if you turn the crank, like when removing flexplate bolts, oil may be pumped out. Either plan on replacing it either way or put an old one on.

* There will always be some coolant left in the block, so be aware of that when pulling the engine and swapping freeze plugs. Clean the area very well. Can't hurt to use a little sealant.

* A large socket that fits inside the freeze plug cup can help installing them straight. Tap in carefully.

* Take some photos of anything you might forget how it's oriented. (i.e.: belts, pulleys, brackets, etc.) Label any wires & connections if that might help.

* Remove the distributor cap & wires so they don't get damaged against the firewall during the swap.

* Good time to check/replace the motor mounts if they are old & deteriorated.

* Spray paint an area around ONE flexplate ear & converter before removal so it goes back the same way. One lug is offset.

* Be careful not to pinch any wires between the block & bellhousing when reinstalling.
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When you say spray paint flexplate ear? I'm not sure how the converter/flexplate attach? Ive only pulled a motor or two but never really installed one, I thought the converter stayed on the trans when the motor was pulled. So It has to be aligned I assume that's what you mean?
 
The flexplate bolts only lines up to the converter one way, its not symmetrical. Just paint, or mark, one ear, that way you'll be easily able to match them up if the crank or convertor rotates. Here's a pic I grabbed off the interweb showing a flexplate through the inspection cover.

Flexplate.jpg
 
When I yanked my 318 out I put a ratchet strap around the T bars and under the bell of the trans....worked great. You do need a jack under the trans to help line it up. What I use for that is a couple of scrap all thread about 6" long with nuts. Get the engine trans "close" and then put 3/8 or 5/16 all thread through the large 7/16 bolt holes in the engine/ bell. this gives you something to "steer with" and line it up easier. I did not remove the hood, but you have to be careful how you hitch up the cherry picker, as there isn't much "headroom" and yo do need to tilt the engine some
 
67Dart273 said:
When I yanked my 318 out I put a ratchet strap around the T bars and under the bell of the trans....worked great. You do need a jack under the trans to help line it up. What I use for that is a couple of scrap all thread about 6" long with nuts. Get the engine trans "close" and then put 3/8 or 5/16 all thread through the large 7/16 bolt holes in the engine/ bell. this gives you something to "steer with" and line it up easier. I did not remove the hood, but you have to be careful how you hitch up the cherry picker, as there isn't much "headroom" and yo do need to tilt the engine some
Click to expand...
I know this question sounds repetitive but lets say I unbolted everything except the transmission bell housing but I want to only pull the motor. Now I remove the bell housing bolts, is the engine now free to pull out? Does the TC come with the motor or does it stay with the trans? If it stays on thr trans how do you specifically unbolt it. Ive been trying to see it but having issues seeing exactly the procedure.
 
The flexplate is bolted to the crank, then bolts to the torque converter. It is a hard connection between the engine and the torque converter. The inspection cover on the bellhousing allows you access to unbolt the flexplate from the converter. When you remove the flexplate to flywheel bolts, the engine will separate and the torque converter will stay in the transmission. The flexplate will stay with the engine.

Here's an example picture looking at the back of the engine. The Flexplate to TC bolts face the opposite direction and go into the TC (as shown in pic above).

mopp_0710_04_z-plymouth_barracuda_bracket_race_car-sfi_flexplate-jpg.jpg


You can also drop the transmission and leave the engine in place. But you still must remove the flexplate to torque converter bolts.

Hope that makes sense!!
 
66fyssh said:
The flexplate is bolted to the crank, then bolts to the torque converter. It is a hard connection between the engine and the torque converter. The inspection cover on the bellhousing allows you access to unbolt the flexplate from the converter. When you remove the flexplate to flywheel bolts, the engine will separate and the torque converter will stay in the transmission. The flexplate will stay with the engine.

Here's an example picture looking at the back of the engine. The Flexplate to TC bolts face the opposite direction and go into the TC (as shown in pic above).

View attachment 1715099539

You can also drop the transmission and leave the engine in place. But you still must remove the flexplate to torque converter bolts.

Hope that makes sense!!
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Yes much clearer now, thank you so much for the detailed description. One last question what method do you use to spin the crank to remove 4 bolts because you can only see 1-2 at a time when you remove the inspection shield?
 
I typically just use a wrench on one of the bolts and turn it around until I can get a socket on it. You can also turn the crank from the front, but that means getting up and down unless you have a helper!!!! You may need a (dare I say - crowbar) to keep the flywheel from spinning to break the bolts loose.

Make sure to torque them property when you reinstall. They are known to come loose. Some folks use a blue or purple threadlocker, but I never have.
 
66fyssh said:
I typically just use a wrench on one of the bolts and turn it around until I can get a socket on it. You can also turn the crank from the front, but that means getting up and down unless you have a helper!!!! You may need a (dare I say - crowbar) to keep the flywheel from spinning to break the bolts loose.

Make sure to torque them property when you reinstall. They are known to come loose. Some folks use a blue or purple threadlocker, but I never have.
Click to expand...
Got it!, thanks again brother, I cant say enough how much you and everybody on this forum has helped me with the all this info and guidance!
 
^^See above, NEVER pull an engine with the TC attached unless it's frozen, a rusted junker, extenuating, etc. You can easily damage the front pump/ seal/ bushing, and then you have troubles

Good idea to fab a simple little tab out of scrap, one hole, put in the lower brace hole of the bell and bend as required to capture the TC so it will not fall out
 
67Dart273 said:
^^See above, NEVER pull an engine with the TC attached unless it's frozen, a rusted junker, extenuating, etc. You can easily damage the front pump/ seal/ bushing, and then you have troubles
Ok, thank you for clarifying that.
Good idea to fab a simple little tab out of scrap, one hole, put in the lower brace hole of the bell and bend as required to capture the TC so it will not fall out
Click to expand...
 
When you assemble, start each bolt in torque convertor to flex plate before you tighten them. They will be 5/16" fine thread and only take 15-18 lb-ft of torque. Very easy to strip threads in tab on TC. Better to use locktite and just snug up bolts with short wrench.
 
3406pk said:
When you assemble, start each bolt in torque convertor to flex plate before you tighten them. They will be 5/16" fine thread and only take 15-18 lb-ft of torque. Very easy to strip threads in tab on TC. Better to use locktite and just snug up bolts with short wrench.
Click to expand...
Will do, thank you!
 
First with front of vehicle on stands, exhaust and trans support member removed, the assembly would tilt down far enough to access the upper bell bolts. The upper radiator hose might stretch or tether if it hasn't been disconnected, and the LA distributor cap might hit the firewall if it hasn't been removed. Anyway... Then trans support member bolts poked back in their holes. I loop a long chinch/tie down strap around the torsion bars to hold the front of the trans up ( it would wiggle to align at reassembly too ). Torque convertor and flex plate marked with paint pen, those bolts removed. This will turn a heck of a lot easier if spark plugs were removed. Everything I need to do underneath done before letting the car back down. As the engine weight comes off the torsion bars raise the car up, so I could unload the torsion bars ( counting bolt revolutions, more marks and jotting notes ) or just deflate the front tires or both. My cherry picker doesn't have to go quite as high. I prefer a lower center of gravity. Something does have to roll though so the car can't go so low it lays on the cherry pickers limbs.
 
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what is your reasoning for leaving the trans in the car?

in my opinion, pulling of the hood and radiator and then pulling the engine WITH the transmission attached is easier
 
What engine hoist, some of the cheaper ones can be short on reach. So when you lift they either bash the hoist into the bumper or pull the motor into the radiator.
 
I have replaced all 6 side plugs, in-car ,on a hoist. I don't recall it being that big a deal. They rot, or seem to rot, from the back of the engine to the front. For me it's always been the one behind the starter that goes first.You can even punch them into the engine and leave them in there for the winter.Then, if the thought of one or two of them being left in there bothers you, you can yank the the engine out later when it's more convenient. Altho getting them out is not usually the hard part. Cleaning the holes, and Driving in the new one straight, is the tricky part.
To clean the holes in-frame,I use a right-angle die-grinder with a wire-brush insert.
I buy a couple of extra plugs just in case I drive one in too crooked to reuse. If they go in too crooked, I drive them in all the way and pull them back out, and throw them away, they're gonna be leakers.When installing them, I start with the hardest-to-reach ones, that way if I have to remove one,and if it's reuseable,I can stick it in the easiest-to-replace hole. To help install them straight, in the hard holes,in-frame, I get the type of plugs with the deep sides; they tend to steer in straighter;but they usually take a bit more force to drive in. I seal them with IndianHead shellac;in the hole and on the plugs. Very messy,very sticky, and very good seal.The IndianHead acts as a lubricant during the install,yet sets up in a few hours. Just let a little time go by before you put that mega-psi cap back on.
Do not pound them in with too-small a socket. While it's not likely to damage them, they will get looser if the center is stretched inwards. Plus you can steer them better with a socket the fits out near the cup edges. They do make a nice driving-tool with a bent end, to use in a tight spot.
I run a 7psi cap,year-round. My rubber parts last for decades, and it's easy on the heater-core.
If the back-side ones are already leaking, the ones in the bell won't be far behind. They sit a little higher in the block I think, but it it ain't all that much. But you just never know; they might already have been changed,lol. I sure wouldn't pull the trans to look, that's for sure; I'm lazy that way,and getting lazier with each passing year.
 
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furrystump said:
What engine hoist, some of the cheaper ones can be short on reach. So when you lift they either bash the hoist into the bumper or pull the motor into the radiator.
Click to expand...
Didnt get it yet, but will keep that in mind when looking to buy. My hood just had to be removed due to a bad mounting plate rust so the hood is off already. Thanks for the tip
 
AJ/FormS said:
I have replaced all 6 side plugs, in-car ,on a hoist. I don't recall it being that big a deal. They rot, or seem to rot, from the back of the engine to the front. For me it's always been the one behind the starter that goes first.You can even punch them into the engine and leave them in there for the winter.Then, if the thought of one or two of them being left in there bothers you, you can yank the the engine out later when it's more convenient. Altho getting them out is not usually the hard part. Cleaning the holes, and Driving in the new one straight, is the tricky part.
To clean the holes in-frame,I use a right-angle die-grinder with a wire-brush insert.
I buy a couple of extra plugs just in case I drive one in too crooked to reuse. If they go in too crooked, I drive them in all the way and pull them back out, and throw them away, they're gonna be leakers.When installing them, I start with the hardest-to-reach ones, that way if I have to remove one,and if it's reuseable,I can stick it in the easiest-to-replace hole. To help install them straight, in the hard holes,in-frame, I get the type of plugs with the deep sides; they tend to steer in straighter;but they usually take a bit more force to drive in. I seal them with IndianHead shellac;in the hole and on the plugs. Very messy,very sticky, and very good seal.The IndianHead acts as a lubricant during the install,yet sets up in a few hours. Just let a little time go by before you put that mega-psi cap back on.
Do not pound them in with too-small a socket. While it's not likely to damage them, they will get looser if the center is stretched inwards. Plus you can steer them better with a socket the fits out near the cup edges. They do make a nice driving-tool with a bent end, to use in a tight spot.
I run a 7psi cap,year-round. My rubber parts last for decades, and it's easy on the heater-core.
If the back-side ones are already leaking, the ones in the bell won't be far behind. They sit a little higher in the block I think, but it it ain't all that much. But you just never know; they might already have been changed,lol. I sure wouldn't pull the trans to look, that's for sure; I'm lazy that way,and getting lazier with each passing year.
Click to expand...
Great, thanks for taking the time out for all this help. Will be used for sure !!!
 
diymirage said:
what is your reasoning for leaving the trans in the car?

in my opinion, pulling of the hood and radiator and then pulling the engine WITH the transmission attached is easier
Click to expand...
trying not to disturb anymore than I have too for now, just trying to replace freeze plugs to try to start motor for now for ease of mobility until full rebuild, the car is away from home and there is time to kill so trying to make run
 
fair enough

i still say pull it with the transmission, but if your more comfortable leaving the transmission in, that works too
 
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