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Need to revive this thread, not in the least thanks to the effort of 65CudaFish. The HRM article you linked to was invaluable. The oil pump was fine. Turns out the 'old' one was new, and already a high-volume model. *sigh* Replaced unessicarily... Here's what I found after I pulled the...

I only changed the lifters. I know the lifter is done; hopefully it failed before causing cam damage. When I pulled the valve cover and pressed down on the rocker, it moved to the bottom-of-travel with almost no effort. I can do a preliminary check of the lobe fairly soon. I'll check...

Perhaps I should have said sooner: The oil and filter are both new, aged less than 1000 miles according to my records. It's golden on the dipstick; not even fully black. I fully intend to get a pressure gauge on it. The question I'm asking now is whether to do it before or after replacing...

So it looks like I have three options going forward: Option 1: Replace just the lifter, and then check the oil pressure. Replace the pump if pressure is bad. Might risk damaging the new lifter by breaking it in with a weak pump? Option 2: Try to check the oil pressure (while running on a...

I don't appear to fuel mixed with any other fluids. Oil and coolant seem normal. However, based on RustyRatRod's question, I rechecked the oil level. I'm a quart below max; which is a quart lower than expected. The light-coming-on-going-down-a-hill incident was 5 weeks ago. That day, I...

Thanks for the response. I'm not sure what you mean by "jacking the engine up in the car". Do you mean I need to use a cherry picker to lift it?

Would a weak oil pump cause the Cylinder #2 Exhaust lifter to clack? I ask because I recently collapsed that lifter due to overtightening. I overtightened it because it would make a very audible clack, I would check the preload, and it would be low. So I'd tighten it a half turn, and so on...

That shield sounds like a baffle. Are they welded to the cover? Or do they attach in another manner? The covers you linked to appear to be baffle-less so I'm a bit confused.

Good to know! So non-baffled covers will work. How thick of a gasket are you using? Do you use baffled grommets, or regular?

Thanks for the responses. I'm certain that I want to maintain the crank ventilation system; I'm not interested in any solution that discards it. I also don't want to buy covers that might not work. I need to know that they'll clear. The stock height is about 3.25" (to the raised...

I recently installed a set of Comp Cams roller rocker arms. I thought clearance would be an issue, so I doubled up the gaskets, and gently tapped the baffles outward. Due to a moving situation, I had to drive the car about 300 miles. The extra clearance wasn't enough, and now my valve...

Hello all! So, I've got a '73 340 that was balanced, but now has a ruined clutch and (very likely) a burnt flywheel. What are my odds on having the flywheel resurfaced and maintaining most of the benefit from the balancing? What sort of limitations are there on resurfacing? I know...

I didn't think aluminum intakes required the fully 35 lbs of torque. I thought they required less. What do you mean, 'end gaskets'? The ones at the front and rear of the intake? Yes, I used those. Mixture screws are about 2 turns out. I don't know about the locating pins you're talking...

Thanks, I'll try that first thing in the morning!

Another question: Does that trick where you put your hands over the top of the carburetor while the engine is running really work to tell you if you have a vacuum leak?

Alright, update. This is a long one. Firstly: I'm pretty sure the secondaries are fine. However, according to 666mopower666, they should be mechanical. What I'm seeing on mine, is that they are BOTH mechanical and vacuum driven. The larger, upper plates (that look like they're stuck...

Alright, so apparently the Edelbrock 1406 has TWO sets of butterflies for the secondary: a lower an an upper. The lower set seems to be closing properly. Going back to vac leaks. See if I can find anything.

The carb gasket hasn't changed. The carb wasn't removed from the intake manifold during the transition. It would be hard for it to catch on that. The 'closing action' of the secondaries seems to be locked up solid. I can't force it closed, however they are definately open, and unresponsive...

krazykuda: I agree. Upon further investigation: my Edelbrock 1406 Carb is definately not closing it's secondaries. They are staying open about 30-45 degrees. What could be causing this? The gas and air going into it has been very clean since it was installed in 2008-2009 (replaced the fuel...

Carb: 600 CFM Edelbrock Yes, distributor was out during the intake replacement. I came to check on things and installed the distributor myself while I was there. Another discover: My secondaries aren't moving (while the engine is off). I can manually move the throttle from closed to TOW and...

Thanks for the thoughts. Her "happy place" seems to be adv. 30 degrees, at idle. That seems very high. I'm using this camshaft: http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1545&gid=287 What's my risk of tightening down the intake bolts? They ran a coolant pressure test and a head leak test...

I actually ended up increasing the advance from where they had it. Not sure if it was 20 degrees. Regardless, I turned the idle screw back to lower the high-idle. Nothing. At full closed I'm idling at 900 RPM. Normally, it would be 0 RPM. Guessing a vacuum leak. It SEEMS like spraying...

Throttle linkage is fine. Also, to answer your earlier statement: the engine has only a PCV (w/breather), and vacuum advance for vacuum lines. There is also a capped off power brake port (pft! why is that there?!).

Hmmm... I'll go check that. There IS a possibility something in the carb stuck, now that I think about it. She'd been sitting for 10 weeks until now... It's also all fresh filters. And she's just had double oil changes to get the coolant out of the oil system.

It's a manual. Sorry. Floats should be fine, it's a fairly young carb. But speaking of floats, could it be the idle mixture?

Just got the 340 back from the shop. Had them re-install the intake manifold after I botched the job the first time, after replacing the rocker arms. On the way home, I noticed that while coming to a stop, (while in neutral, foot on the brake only) the engine revs a good 500 RPM toward the...

If it comes down to pulling the intake manifold to get to the lifter, I'm just going to replace the set... possibly the entire valve train. What I would like to know is, should I warm the car up, letting run for several minutes, to see if the lifter unsticks? Or does that risk damage? I've...

340, bored 40 over. J-heads, punched to match X-head valves, and deck lowered to bring static compression up to about 10:1. Ported and polished. KB hypereutectics. Lunati 60403 hydraulic flat-tappet camshaft with matching lifter kit. Set of very old mopar adjustable rockers, clearenced for...

A while ago, I corrected the preload on one of my lifters to remove a slapping sound coming from cylinder 6. Having had great success, I decided it might be good to correct the preload on all of the cylinders, since the valvetrain seemed a little noisy overall... Not my best idea...

The 200 lbs must be a BS number, or he meant open pressure. His actual quote was "springs are 200 lbs on the nose". I'd always assumed it was seat pressure as he treated them like something special. The car's been a daily driver with this configuration for over two years. Now that I have...