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it all depends HP was "rated" lower due to insurance changes and cafe standards being lowered..... it was not at all uncommon for your 250/275 hp 340 to be sluggin out up to 350 easily...have seen it with my own eyes way more than once! also someone said earlier that the 72 340 could ALMOST be...

If you cant see anything down the plug hole......put a plug in it and turn it over manually....remove the plug. If the plug is closed again......there is ONLY ONE thing in that cylinder that CAN hit the plug and that is the piston....Unless of course some idiot dropped a washer down the...

I guess some folks are just THICK

Hmmm lets think about all of this.... 1. "OUT PERFORM" ONLY applies to "racing" if "racing" is how you intend to use it. WHAT IF you are NOT talking about "racing" 2. IF by "PERFORMANCE" you are talking about a combination of daily reliability and street "giddy-up." WHAT IF "ALL AROUND"...

THERMO QUADS are trouble free, go up to 850 if you need it, have vacuum secondary s, are NOT sensitive or finicky a lil taxing on the set up, but once its dialed in....it will perform consistently for years and I have run my TQ in my old DUster against the exact same set up in a Demon except the...

The above assumes that the engine is a fresh build and that all the internals were assembled correctly esp the timing gears & chain...... if the engine has miles on it, depending on how many....your chain might be sloppy and you may have jumped a tooth or three..... jumped tooth can be easily...

externally balanced incorrectly can cause a vibration this is true..... but you could hang a 5 lb lead weight on it and that will NOT make the engine backfire. Externally balanced means you have to have the correct converter AND the correct harmonic....only ONE correct will cause vibration...

just sharing info: a quote from the very first post in this thread "The motor does not crank when it is hot, i have a mopar mini starter on it." I cannot stand Mini Starters, to me they are all expensive junk!!! IF I was given one I would throw it away. cannot see burdening someone else...

hmmmm I am thinkin that vacuum advance may be useless with todays fuel? that may be your problem.... the extra advance is no longer necessary and todays fuel typically runs hotter for some reason...sumtin to think about

thought about it a second....if the cover is still on the engine ( hopefull NOT makes life a lot more difficult) DO NOT use an easy out!!!! easy outs work by diggin into the insides of the thing you are trying to remove...this puts outward pressure on the tube, thereby jamming it into the...

I have put in bundles of those tubes both after market and directly from Chrysler Parts...I have yet to see one with threads on it....... those are press fit, there is no pressure at the tube opening and it is below the oil line , hence the need for a longer dip stick.....put a lil sealer on it...

OK just curious....whats the difference between the LD340 and the Eddy performer? Side by side on a bench they appear to be exactly the same.... so one was from the local speed shop and one was from direct connection? past that whats the diff?

we are pretty much on the same page, orange springs , richen it up......but this only gets you "close"... Close may be good enough...but guys dont believe the 1406 is set to "economy" out of the box...HENCE the advice to go to a frame dyno shop....

Prolly best to read following posts before commenting...just sayin

PS this is directly from Edelbrock: "Calibrated 2% leaner than #1405." Economy!!! out of the box.

DUDE!!! EGGGSACTLY!!!!!! That was a joke!! after reading all the prev & post advice it is even funnier!! The only way to do it properly is to take it to a frame dyno. the o2 will tell you how rich or lean it is and adjustments are made from there.....and like someone else said EVERYTHING...

600 cfm electric choke 1406 carbs are set up for "economy" out of the box......which means they run pretty lean (DANGEROUSLY LEAN) other can explain what that does in detail but essentially it detonates pistons ( UN-GOOD) Move the stock front jets (95-98's I think) to the rear and put the...

LMAO...NOT being a Ahole....but might be a good idea to study/check things OUT BEFORE breakin out the BFH ( and your thumb)..... being prepared is not just a saying as your thumb will certainly attest to......I have discovered that asking these kinds of questions and accumulating answers before...

OK this explains how to find the TDC when the motor has some miles on it.... would this be necessary on a new build with a fresh chain? or could you just run it up on the c stroke until the piston stops moving up.....I seem to remember using a longer thin screwdriver and watch it move up and...

This is a long shot....take the gas cap off....see what happens....I had some crap like this happen to me back in the 70's and the lil "breather thingy" in the cap was plugged caused a world of **** until I found it....cleaned the lil hole out with gumout carb cleaner and WHOOP no probs.... not...

FYI some J heads and all U heads had the larger valves too....

WIld & Crazy is pretty spot on..... depending on the day, the market, what happens at Mecums & BJ's...... the price can shoot up or drop like a rock.....in this market its almost an "hourly" fluctuation.... you should be safe with those numbers if you can live with either of them

RumbleFish...thought I was the only one to get peoples blood pumpin LMAO....

B E A U T I F U L engine SSHomer...but that aint the correct color of the early Mopar reds....way too orange. Part number P4349218 from Mopar Performance is NOT the correct red( sad to say). The closest color out of a rattle can that I have seen Is Krylon Farm & Implement #1818 Int'l...

I asked that question 25 years ago and A friend who races Mopars and rebuilds his 6 engines almost weekly.... he answered me like this.... " while you are beating the snot out of your stock "grocery getter" motor racing some nova or mustang from light to light....keep a close eye on your...