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You did not mention stall speed or gear ratio. You did say daily street motor and it needs good vacuum for the brakes. You also did not say if its zero decked or how far down the pistons are from the deck a TDC or what size chambers the heads have so I'll assume the block was not decked and you...

Looks like we've reached a conclusion. Either one will work, it's just a matter of preference.

Sounds like you have some other problem. Mechanical pump with a Holley on mine and I rarely ever have to crank it for more than three seconds even if I have not started it in a month.

It can be done. You will need a JW Ultrabell bellhousing for 904 to big block. To use it you have to cut the original bellhousing off and the JW bellhousing bolts on top of the pump using longer bolts. I very much doubt the /6 904 will hold up for long behind even a mild big block though. The...

I always use mechanical pumps unless I have no choice. I prefer the simplicity and most of all the silence of a mechanical pump. I have a 440 in my Gold Duster. Not sure about how much power it has but it weighs 3500# with me in it and has run a best of 7.06 @ 96 in the 1/8 mile and 11.125 @ 121...

I have an MSD starter. 440 with 11.5 to 1. Its been working without fail for two years. I have to agree with the other comments though. I had and old starter out of a 95 Ram van and compared them and the appeared to be identical except the MSD one has nice shiney red paint and an MSD decal on...

Oh and I forgot to mention, I have full exhaust over the axle to the rear bumper. I've never run it with open headers. No truck and trailer, it gets driven to and from the track, and raced in the exact same tune it runs on the street.

I have a 70 Gold Duster. 440, aluminum heads, intake, water pump housing and radiator, a very heavy A-518 overdrive trans, a somewhat heavy Strange nine inch axle, steel wheels and nothing else done to lighten it, the car weighs 3330 with out me in it. Its 3500# race ready. It had a little over...

I run a 160 GPH 16 PSI mechanical pump with a bypass regulator and a return line with 3/8 line for the feed and return on mine. About 575 hp and it runs low 11s@ 121. No problems at all. 3/8 is fine.

You have plenty of choices. Stock, and a bunch of after market dual planes all fit. I run a Torker II. As far as I know the RPM fits also. The question for me is which one would make the most power. I'd like to get my hands on an RPM to compare it to the Torker II. I run a dual snorkel closed...

Well the cat is out of the bag now. Is it tall? I'm interested in any intake that makes good power while fitting under the flat hood on my Duster.

I run the XR-292-10 in my 440. I can see by your dyno numbers that I'm leaving plenty of power on the table at this point. I have cnc Steallth heads and close to 11.5 to 1. So far its gone 121.4 mph in the 1/4 mile and my car weighs exactly 3500#with me in it. It has not been dyno tested but the...

There is a big header option that works with torsion bars. Bob Mazzolini Pro Part headers. They are step headers, 2 to 2 and 1/8" with 3.5" collectors. They are also partial fenderwell headers. Two tubes on the drivers side and on tube on the passenger side run through the wheelwells. The...

That's extremely cool and bad ***. Is that going to be a street car?

That's some mighty fine crap you got there. Is that a B or RB? The reason I'm asking is because I see you have power brakes and a Wilwood MC and good clearance. I did an RB swap into my Duster and had the Wilwood cylinder with no power brakes and it barely even cleared the valve cover. I wound...

Was that a factory build or did someone rebuild it at some point? I've never heard of a stock 400 with a forged crank. I'm wondering if someone swapped in a forged 383 crank.

Go see IQ52s thread in this forum. Its called Dyno a 7.5 to 1 400? Sure, why not? The biggest issue with the 400 is that you're stuck with low compression unless you start spending plenty to change that. Now as far as being "stuck with a 400", that's not a bad thing at all. Lots of guys are...

Unless you need the accessory brackets and pulleys I think you're better off looking for a 400 block rather than a complete engine. I saw two blocks recently for $200 each. Both were clean and sonic checked for thickness. That's assuming you are looking for something to build a stroker with. On...

I hate to sat it but Headman has earned a poor reputation. I'll sat it again. Schumacher headers will make your life very easy and will not kill nearly as much power as people think. I had no problem exceeding 500 hp with mine. I ran 11.48 @ 117 with Schumachers on mine and later discovered that...

I'm a little surprised to see people saying the swap is anything other than easy. My Gold Duster is my first Mopar project and I walked right through the swap. On a scale of 1 to 10 with difficulty, I rate it a 2. My car was a slant 6 car. I used Schumacher mounts and headers and it dropped...

The clear valley plate is a great idea but it will be out of place on this engine. I like to keep things looking as mundane as possible. Eventually I'm going to strip down the engine bay for a repaint and when I do I'm going to get rid of all the clutter on the inner fenders. The MSD is getting...

Based on what I've seen in the responces, especially moper and Oldschool I think I was maybe being a little paranoid about my lifters. The new plan is to remove and inspect them and make an assessment. The cam is a COMP XR292-10 Xtreme Energy street solid roller. Its only .582/.588 lift and I...

I sent a pm to Mike at MRL, haven't heard back from him. He's probly very busy building engines. There's a couple of reasons I don't want to keep the COMP lifters, the biggest one being that the only oiling the wheels get is from windage, or oil being flung up from the crank and rods. COMP...

Its time to swap out the roller lifters in my 440. I have COMP lifters in it now and they have over two years on them now. The car gets driven about 1000 street miles a year and has about 30 drag passes on it so I don't want to push my luck. I don't want to use another set of COMP lifters so I'm...

Wow, the TrickFlow heads are looking better and better. What really catches my eye is the mid lift flow. With those numbers one could build an engine that makes a solid 650 hp with a valvetrain that goes for a very long time without needing to replace parts in the valvetrain. No need for more...

I've been using Holley carbs for decades and love them. Very easy to tune, parts are readily available and easy to get. I saw one comment about Holley's not staying in tune, I've never had that problem. 750 with vacuum secondaries work very good on mild big blocks.

Clean them up on a wire wheel and use em'. I would not worry unless they look crappy or you're going over 11 to 1 or using a power adder.

Yup, mine is 500+ hp. I ran a best of 11.48@ 117 with the Schumachers through 3" exhaust. I had modified my Schumies by cutting off the 2.5" collectors and going to 3" ones with V-band flange connectors. If you go to my picture gallery you can see how it was done. Not sure how much that helped...

One other thing I'm wondering about on your engine. Are the port openings on the factory style gasket/valley pan large enough for the ports on the heads? I run CNC Stealths on mine and the factory style gasket was way to small at the ports. I run a 440 Source valley plate and Eddy intake...

I run the 440 Source valley plate, Stealth heads and a Torker II on mine. The valley plate leaked badly when I first got it running. Turned out that the bottom of the intake was contacting the plate and breaking the seal where it seals to the heads. I'm pretty sure the intake would have cleared...