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Absolutely! ALL converters stall. The real question is... at what stall RPM will your engine/chassis combo work best? The right torque converter can make a car, the wrong one can turn it into a dawg! And there is more to torque converters than just the stall speed. Namely torque multiplication...

I believe the Transgo shift-kits eliminate the fluid drainback from the converter.

:scratch: :scratch: I'm glad you two know what you're talking about. I sure don't.

My guess is your stall speed will be around 1800rpm. It may flash a little higher than that. Can't help you with the flex plate questions. I'm having a difficult time of my own understanding all the variation of those things.

Thanks 70aarcuda, you saved me the aggravation of buying the wrong parts. Sorry 66dartman, the price is right but the application isn't. Looks like Mopar Performance does not have a SFI rated flex plate for the 'econo' converters using 5/16" bolts. They list a non-SFI flex plate with part...

No. I still don't know what size bolts the 175k converter uses. I'm still hoping someone will chime in with that info. :) If not, I'll call Mancini and ask them. But I did notice an error in the flex plate part number I posted. Instead of P4528751, the correct part number for that plate is...

Are you sure both transmissions are 904's? What years are they? Also, I failed to mention this earlier... but I would not recommend installing a used converter with a freshly rebuilt transmission unless you have the converter rebuilt too. You should at least try to flush out the old fluid.

Yes, the /6 convertor should work with the V8 transmission since they are both 904's. Now a TC for a 904 will not work with a 727 and vice versa because the input shaft spline is different. Flex plate should also interchange as long as the number of crankshaft bolts are the same. I think most...

My stroker crank has 6 bolt holes for the flexplate. I plan to use a Mopar Performance 175k torque convertor. I think I need a flexplate with 7/16" holes, correct? So the part number I need is P4528751 and corresponding bolt kit P4120465?

Some excellent tips dartjack. Thanks! The AllPar tech article I posted a link to has a lot of historical info as well as theory of operation. It also discusses similarities and differences between the various Torquflite models. Worth a read for sure. And it does tend to confirm the 904 guts...

Thanks Duster340. It sounds encouraging that a nearly stock rebuild is surviving behind a stout 340. That's what I was hoping to hear. :thumblef:

We've got lot's of engine recipes, how about some transmission recipes???? Tell us what you used and why: Rebuild kit? Standard Borg Warner or Red Alto clutch plates and Kolene steels? Shift kit? Valve body? Hard parts? Gear set? Sprag? Trans cooler? Trans pan? Any other mods...

What I've heard is the 727 is a 904 on steroids. :dontknow:

I haven't, but the Moparts link that Chrippa posted had a discussion about this. 904 Low First Gear Set

I have read where people used 904 'guts' in a 727 case. I have also read that you can use a 727 valve body in a 904. It would be interesting to see a complete list of parts that can interchange, but that's not the point of this thread. I bought an ATSG service manual that does cover both 904...

I've seen that book. Does it cover the 904 at all? Are the 727 and 904 similar enough that the information in the book is relevant?

Okay guys, lets put together a tutorial on how to rebuild a Torqueflite. Post any and all info you have on the A904/999 and A727 transmissions. I'll start with a couple articles from Mopar Muscle. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/5123/index.html...

Well reality has struck, and it looks like a new trans is not going to fit into my budget for this year. If I am going to get my Dart on the road next summer, I'm going to have to make do with the 904 I have now. So I am thinking just a basic rebuild and add a shift kit, then maybe a Mopar 10"...

To go behind the stroker small block I'm building. I expect the motor to put out between 450-500hp at the flywheel. The car is a full weight '71 Dart Swinger with a/c, power steering, power brakes, etc, etc. THIS IS NOT A RACE CAR! I am building this as a street cruiser first, fun toy for the...

:-k Maybe the driveshaft is a smidge too short and allows the yoke to wobble just a bit because it doesn't engage the splined output shaft enough.

You will need 3" U bolts too.

Yeah, but then you'll be asking how to get it to hook. :tongue3:

As Adam said, raising the stall speed will let the motor get into it's power band quicker. If the motor make all it's power from 3500-6000rpm, and the Torque Converter stalls at 800rpm, then the engine will seem to bog when you mash on the gas. But if you slap in a TC that stalls at 3500rpm, the...

I think I have posted this before... The Rear End Guide by Hot Rod mag.

Mine does this too... and it's stock. Of course it leaks fluid all over my driveway too. :angry5:

Sorry, don't have a pic of that. If I recall, I used the small inner throttle return spring from my original 2bbl carb. I hooked one end to the ball stud that comes with the Lokar cable. I don't remember exactly what the other end hooked to. I do remember it was a pain in the butt to get my...

Mine came from eBay. As long as nobody bids against you, you can pick it up a few bucks cheaper than what MagnumHP lists it for.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's assuming you are using the Lokar throttle cable bracket. :thumrigh:

This is the best pic I have of it. That's a Carter AFB carb, not sure what would be different on other carbs, but the hookup at that lower hole seems just perfect on my setup.

I used the MagnumHP throttle bracket when I switched the 2bbl manifold out for the 4bbl. It has a provision for the Lokar cable. I got some pics somewhere. I'll find them and post shortly.