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I have to say this, Cam failure is nothing new, It was very common, even back in the 60s/70s, I can't count how many engines i'v tore down that had lobes failing or wiped, Chevies were more common because of there smaller lifter diameter, The problems today are different cam profiles with...

I sent mine off to Bullet Cams, They couldn't do much, but ended up with 477/477 lift, 218/218 dur. @50 & he put it on a 112 from a 114 LSA. It was good for 5K shifts & that was it, In my 71 Swinger i ran 12.5s @ 105 consistantly, the lower end was stock, just an Air-Gap intake, 650dp & headers...

Then YOU got a bad one.

Amen!!! I ran one of those crap-olla intakes on my 360 magnum with 0 issues, Just took off a Perf. 2-0 eddy that was on my BBC, 1 port was smaller then the rest & it was a virgin intake LOL, was there casting flash in the runners, YUP sure was.... So i purchased another crap-olla Pro-comp...

1st. get the timing right, Then jet it up in the primaries & get it were it feels good, then start jetting the rear, you really need some track time, jet for best MPH, But remember, Running the fastest MPH at the track with result in a richer condition on the street in stop & go traffic, But you...

I'm thinking 3.58 stroke, yeah i'll agree the 3.55s should work good, but he could use abit more stall.

I think you'll be fine with the torque of the 408 with that cam, But, the 2 things i'd change are the gears/converter, I'd go with at least a 28-3000 stall & 3.91s & run a 28" tire. Even 4.10s would be nice for a street bruiser. I ran 4.56s in a 370ci smb in a full bodied 73 Swinger with a 2800...

I'll 2nd. that!!!

Had a factory 70 340 4sp. Valiant back in 1988, had 3.91 gears, the previous owner installed the largest Crane FT Hyd. they had, The heads had triple springs, If memory serves me, the cam had an advertised dur. of .320/.320, lift was around .570, was on a 108, It wouldn't idle below 1200 rpm...

Slapper bars can work good if you know how to dial them in, Cal-tracs are the ticket these days, if you go that route make sure you use the Mono springs, I made the mistake of using my old worn out multi leafs, a big no-no.

I'd go with a 1.3/4 longtube or fenderwell, Those 26" tires might be a handful with that much torque, 28" would be better for 3.73 gears & 4" stroke.. Call & talk to Kenny at PTC converters, I would go with a 9.5", he can/will hook you up for a very good price. I like the M-1 single plane on the...

I say call Bullet & talk with them, If they say yes on that cam, break out your wallet, I'll bet anything he agrees with what i said & that will be all the cam you'll need for a very nice street car & plenty of power with your combo.

Roller cams have more area under the curve then FT cams, this produces power, That being said, I'd lean more towards the Bullet grind, Bullet has a great reputation when it comes to selecting cams for your needs, Now for instance, If you went with a FT hyd. to produce the same power as the...

Glad you found it, I had a feeling it was the coil run wire or a bad switch, just didn't remember what wire feed the coil during the run position, in most cases its always the simplest things that are over looked.

Thats what i was thinking.

Your not getting fire in the 'run" position, this will not have anything to do with being 180* out, No engine will run 180* out, at least not from what i'v ever seen. You by-passed the ballast & it ran but then quit? Did you disconnect both plugs from the ballast? Sounds like whats happening...

I ran 10.3 compression on a 370 sbm i did up for a dart, I installed the comp XE284H cam, I ran the stock 915 iron heads, just installed 2.02 intake valves, It had great quench & ran great on pump premium, They were KB 190 pistons. 36* total timing, 2800 stall & 4.56 gears, That engine pulled to...

Ok, he's talking about the "ready to run" that uses an external coil, not the HEI.

All you hook up are 2 external wires, 1 to the "BAT" 12v & the other is coil, it should say it on the cap, the other 3 are pre-wired from the dist. & it clips into the cap. DO NOT run a separate wire to the chassic & ground the distributor!!

I have used 2 of these HEIs in the past, my last one was from skip white because of all the good reviews, I will say it was the best 39.00 i'v spent lately & it was way better then the other 2 i had.

Theres no reason to get bitter, I'm not trying to piss you off, just stating facts, You did make some good valid points on how he should be checking for voltage.

That in no way looks like an MSD "brand" box & sorry i should have worded it that way, It is listed as an MSD box because MSD stands for "Multiple spark discharge" & thats what it does, Now Pro-comp sells a nicer MSD box then the one you listed, Everyone is jumping on the bandwagon, Is it...

Are they listing it as MSD? No there not, I'm sure most realize these distributors are knock-offs.. there are alot of vendors selling these knock off distributors, & most folks are actually having good luck with them, Can't be beat for the price, They are primarily from Pro-Comp. I deal with KMJ...

Are you hooking up the wires right, Something sounds goofy, Those dist. are very simple with there internal coil, its just 2 wires, the tach & 12v source, I have used about 5 of these E-Bay dizzys with no issues, 4 were HEIs, Did you bypass the ballast with a jumper wire? If its the 4 prong...

I'd run an MSD 6AL so you have a rev. limiter, just make sure you'll pull timing accordingly & run better gas while on the bottle. What converter are you going to use?

Its a trade off, I'd try more int. timing 1st. as suggested, this will clean things up & make it easier to tune, you really don't want less then 1000 rpms on a stick car anyways, even with a mild cam, 11-1200 rpms wouldn't be out of the norm.

It'll lower the cylinder pressure on the 114, so you'll be fine for the DC #s, the idle quality will greatly improve, But there is a drawback, You will loose overall perf. & it won't pull nearly as good. I will say this, that cam your running is not much IMO to be considered too much to tame...

I'd start adding more timing, 32 * seems a tad low, run it up untill the MPH falls off, then start jetting it up untill the same thing, That 850 should be more then enough carb, i'll bet it runs better with a 750hp.

No there shouldn't be if its tuned in right, that cam can get close to 13 inches manifold vacuum or there abouts.