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Look, it's easy and quick to check if it's bearing related. Pop off the bearing cap, remove the cotter pin, back the adjuster nut off 1/4 turn and reinstall everything. Now check and see of the sounds changes. Ain't going to hurt nothing and your shop is less than professional for not at least...

Dam nice shine job you got there Cliff. Looks like the boys put some elbow grease into it.:blob:

Whoa, where did the "360" come from or is it that you know this car very well. Just curious.

And is it actually a 340 and not a 318, personally standing in front of the car with the hood up I can't tell the difference. I'd get the casting numbers off the side of the block to be sure.

Yup Zhand, that thing is butt ugly and I think that to prevent any of it's ugliness from rubbing off on your fair state you should let me bring it home here north of the border.:glasses2:

If the batteries plates are sulfated off it will still take a charge but will have a drastically reduced capacity, It'll go dead fast. Have it tested and they'll put it on a carbon pile that will tell you how good or not the inards are. It got hot because it was being overcharged, for whatever...

And don't be smoking around a battery especially an overcharging battery, hydrogen gas go boom.

Considering you live in Florida I'd just wire the flap open and be done with it.

Well Bea, if there was a prize for the funniest and most thought provoking Avitar then you're the winner hands down. Good luck on the cooling problem and Dans definetely the Man for /6's and others.

As you can tell from the responses Bea, we're going to need a lot more info on your overheating problems to be able to nail it down. Under no circumstances should you remove the thermostat, it's job is not only to control the temp. but it also controls the flow of the coolant. Racers will remove...

If it was my car, I'd drop the pan and see if it's even has baffles and if not add some, at the same time I'd check that the pickup is damn near touching the bottom of the pan.

Why thank you Peter and Grant, is does an old heart proud.:toothy10:

The six pack scoop is timeless, can't believe I used the word "timeless".8)

Yup, 14 and 15" only for the 5 x 4" BC

Since you're going to have to remove the bearing to change the seal you always want to replace the bearing and race. Unless you look at the rollers with a microscope you could miss seeing the start of bearing going south and during the removal of the old bearing at the very least the roller cage...

Nasty but no I've never seen it before and I'd diffenately remember this one. Terry

Cool car Dave, but when are ya going to install the supercharger.LOL:toothy10: Terry

Okay, try this, drive her till she's hot and won't turn over then put a 1/2" drive socket and ratchet on the end of the crank and see if she's actually siezed. Terry

Lets back up a bit, are saying that it doesn't turn over when hot or it turns over fine but won't fire up. Terry

Have you checked for spark when it's hot and won't start. If there is no spark and you've got the MP high voltage distributor then replace the little black cube (reluctor) inside the distributor. If it's a fuel boil off issue with the carb install a 1/2" open composite spacer and if you don't...

I got my 3/8 SS tubing from a place I use to work, it was free, and a couple hand fulls of Swagelock compression fittings, they were free to, and I do own my own benders and tube cutters. Actually now that I think about it they were free also.:toothy10::toothy10: Terry

Yes you are. Sorry :toothy10:

Yup, schmacher torque rod, engine mounts and tri-Y headers. Opps, mine isn't an early A, sorry can't read. Terry

Yea Guitar, I'm thinking of the oil Cummins 444 V8, 350 and 400 straight 6 highway tractor engines. Terry

Maybe an even simpler explanation is each fuel injector is operated by a rocker arm much like the intake and exhaust valve rocker arms and when the rocker pushes on the "plunger" part of the injector very high pressure diesel is injected into the combustion chamber. The rocker is operated either...

The schmacher torque strap (actually a rod) works really well and is adjustable, now if I can just get the rest of the car to stop shaking.LOL Terry

:butthead::butthead::butthead::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: That's what I think of his price

I've heard of noisey gears when they're new but that's just bizzare. Anyway it sounds like they did right by you and if you like the ratio that's even better. Who knows the shop that did the work might even get more from readers of this thread in your area, that's the main benefit of good...

I'd say let your specialist make that call cuss if anything happens it'll be warranty. !5 miles is a bit long especially if the rear is set up to tight and she'll get hot. If I was a betting man I'd say that he didn't have enough preload on the carrier bearings and when the backlash was set...

How fars the drive