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I have read here that having the safety switch is rough on the crank thrust bearing. Because there is not much oil being thrown around by the crank when starting, like there is when it is running and using the pedal. No personal experience, just what I have read here. Just food for thought. I...

I know. Thanks for trying to help.

Yes

Brand new MSD distributor

Brand new Pioneer balancer.

Not sure. When I slowly open the throttle I can see it climb to 34* then if I slowly keep going up it will stay there, then suddenly it just gets blurry.

I need to do some tuning with my distributor and need some help. At the moment my initial is 12* and total is 34*. I am sure it needs around 18* initial but I have some weird going on I need to figure out first. When I rev the engine and it gets to the 34* total, if I rev it on up the timing...

It is definitely throwing a heck of a nice blue spark.

The timing light I have is Non dial. Just a basic light. I also have an old school chrome sears craftsman light I may drag out. I melted the latch that holds it onto the plug wire but I could probably make it work.

I never see the 50* mark. When it hits around the 34* mark all the timing goes off the chart. All I see is fluctuation else where on the balancer.

Engine is a small block. The ignition consists of an MSD6AL box and a stock mopar distributor, with a total timing limiter plate. I have the initial set around 18* to 20* ( idle is erractic so it's hard to get a good reading ). The total timing is at 34*. The vacuum advance is not hooked up and...

I will check for these things. Thanks

I noticed that when the timing would be way off that there would be a brief miss in the engine. It was not a constant miss. Just would do it occasionally. Earlier when I said a couple of seconds it most likely wasn't that long. It was just a quick miss and the timing would quickly go back to...

I broke my engine in today. I had the engine running at 2300 rpm. I set the timing at 28* with the vacuum advance unhooked. I noticed that occasionally the timing would advance way past the marks on the balanced just for a couple seconds and then return and stay there. That I saw it only...

Problem solved. I hooked up the electrical system today, alternator and all wiring. I did not realize that the battery ground not being hooked to the chassis would cause the light to not work. Put light in the mounting hole, hooked up battery and the light worked fine.

The body of the light is thread on the backside. It sticks through the dash and has a star washer and nut.

I have installed a dash reverse indicator light in my Dart. If I ground the light on negative post and run wire to positive the light works. Try to ground it on the body and it wont work. I have some electrical knowledge but I am no expert at it. Opinions needed.

My 67 Dart has the same 4 pin ballast resistor as your 68 barracuda. When I got the car it still had the points distributor and the tiny voltage regulator. The wiring had not been touched.

When you mention line in, are you referring to an auxiliary port to hook an I POD or cell phone to.

Do you have a website? Where are you located?

x2

Anyone have pictures or details of how to hook up the wiring and what to do with the factory amp gauge wires?

I have read where members on FABO have ran into this problem. Maybe someone who has experienced this can chime in.

Dot to dot most of the time is fine. It will do well enough for a daily driver. But sometimes even then you can get a bad one. If the gears or cam ( or both ) are out of time from the manufacturer it can kill the engine. I had one a I put together when I was a teenager and got the timing 1 tooth...

What carb do you have?

I gonna say you have a tuning issue. That combo should spin the tires easily as long as the engine is healthy internally. When the cam was installed was it degreed?

I guess I do need to unhook the ballast. I bought the MSD box used and had no instructions with it. I bought an MSD wiring book and it had no mention of it that I saw. I will get that unhooked. Thanks.

Thanks for the info fellas. Good to know I can just remove it and connect the wires back together should the ballast go bad.

Thanks Joe, it's good to know I have the option.