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You build what you've got. Then come online and a bunch of keyboard warriors will tell you what you did wrong. Hell, you could say "apple pie is good" and someone will argue with you.

Don't start throwing parts at it yet. Like suggested, check cranking PSI. Might as well check all cylinders while you're at it. They should be very close. Timing is a big thing. I believe earlier in the thread you said you adjusted the timing to get rid of ping. If so, get a timing light on it...

Not custom, but I used Lokar on my Duster. I don't know if I'll ever use anything else now. It attachs to the carb, so there's no brackets that use the intake bolts. Neat and simple. You can't see it that wel in the pic, but you get the idea.

As long as we're spending someone else's money, might as well get an A8 block.

Now, you asked which is the better engine... In stock form it's the 340, hands down. You would have to be nuts to claim otherwise. The 340 has a forged crank, forged pistons, bigger intake valves (in the early ones), bigger cam, floating wrist pins, and higher compression. The stock 360 has none...

That's what I was thinking.

IIRC, a stock 340 is supposed to have 10 degrees initial...? Anyway, if you have access to an advance timing light, rev the engine to about 3000 and check the advance. Around 36 degrees total advance is common.

With a 68 Dart like yours, I would think for a while about a big block. Yes, it costs some cash. If you REALLY would be satisfied with a high 12 second quarter, it should not be hard to reach with your 360. If, a year from now, you wish you were running high 11's... see what I'm getting at...

Agreed. If you don't drive in very cold weather, run 20W-50 conventional oil and a GOOD oil filter - Wix, Mobil1, K&N... If you run a flat tappet cam, a zinc additive wouldn't hurt. Not for oil pressure, but for cam lobe wear.

Don't feel too bad. A pair of good W2 heads alone would sell for much more than $200. That would have been a MAJOR score.

Here's mine. Kind of dirty in this pic, but it cleans up.

I had a pair of heads that made a strong case for hardened exhaust seats. I can't take a picture of them, though. I threw them in a dumpster years ago.

It's a 340, man. Put the big valves in and wind it up!! ;-)

340, stock crank. SRP pistons, 10.1:1 compression. Edelbrock RPM heads, ported. Performer RPM intake, Eagle H beam rods, Bullet cam, Comp hyd roller lifters, Comp rockers, Holley HP Street 750, TTI headers. Stock flywheel, Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch. This is why I had an actual race...

You'll love the roller cam. Those specs are not far off from mine. I have a custom ground hydraulic roller with .530 lift and 230 degrees at .050. Surprisingly, it idles real nice and has good street driveablility. Only 5" of vacuum at idle though. Not a problem for me with the four speed and...

The only way to find out for sure is to cc the heads, take some measurements, and calculate it. Bigger cams will lower your cylinder pressure and will be less likely to ping. I would not expect an iron head small block with 9:1 compression to ping, assuming it doesn't run too hot or too...

It does sound like a vacuum leak. Is the needle steady on the vacuum gauge, or does it bounce around?

If ya got the room to store it, of course it's worth keeping.

Opinions: I would stay away from C&S. Consider NVR or, I guess, Kilpatrick. I have not had anything done by Kilpatrick, so I can't vouch for them. I just know that a lot of Mopar guys in the area go to him. Love my Edelbrocks. For the price, you can't go wrong. If you go to an engine...

Sorry, man. Thread went straight down the crapper. You can do plenty with a 318, and if that's what you want to build, then by all means, go for it. The power you can make will probably be limited by your bank account.

Building a 4.30 center section... That ought to buzz pretty good. 3.91 is livable though.

We just got done doing the same type of thing to a '64 Valiant. Get an Offy intake if you can. For practicality, go with a Mopar electronic distributor. You can run an Edelbrock carb, which is an AFB, but it won't directly fit the intake. Different bolt pattern and smaller bores in the...

I wouldn't want to run a 360 with stock rods and crank to 7000RPM. The good news is that you don't have to buzz it that high to make power. My 340 could go to 7000, but it makes peak horsepower at 6000, so I shift at 6400. By the way, it's a hydraulic roller with .530 lift and 230 duration at .050.

Like others said, 20psi hot at idle is not low. If the weather is that hot, I would go with 20W-50. I run Brad Penn 20W-50 and a Mobil1 filter. Avoid Fram - do a Google search and see for yourself.

Everybody's got an opinion, but you asked, so... If it were me, I would go with a Holley 4150. I LOVE the edelbrocks for a nearly stock engine, but not when you're making some power. Find somebody local who you can trust and have them help you tune the carb. I would also go MSD box and...

Unless you know something I don't, Edelbrock has their own foundry.

Back in the 80's, my 340 was slowly eating the foam in that air cleaner. It looked nice, but NOT a good idea.

The shop that built my 340 took a lot out of the air gap intake. I have Edelbrock heads too. I like the intake - although I never tried a different one on the same engine, so that doesn't mean much.

Yes, the valves will need the bores notched - at least. Plus, the compression ratio will be crappy and the ports are too big which will hurt velocity.

Good to hear you're on the right track. That will mess you up for sure.