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I ran Type F in my previous build and been running it for 2 years in my latest build with no ill effects. Others in our group have been running longer, one has race transmission with manual valve body and all the goodies. Dennis

Also note that there is additional timing adjustment underneath the distributor on a slant. A lot of people aren't aware of it.

AJ/FormS has a smarta$$ way of putting it but more info wold be helpful in order to help you. That metal shim between the two manifolds is supposed to be there and should have been there before the repair. What do you mean by "cold start problems"? Is it hard to start or won't stay running...

1. The Hayden #2765 is about the shortest you are gonna find. If it won't work, probably nothing will. 2. Why not just ditch the flex fan? They are noisy. I had one on my small block Vega that threw a couple of blades. Off of course you're not gonna see that kind of rpm's on your car . Get a...

First, don't buy the one you have a link to. Way too pricey. You can find one here on the forum a lot of the time or get a new one at Jegs or Summit for a better price. As for better, they all cool but the clutch fan will disengage at high speed since the air flowing through radiator is...

I tend to agree with nm9stheham. The fluid in the bucket looks like trans fluid not rust. I would focus on getting that "new" radiator checked out. You won't need trans sealer after getting things fixed. That's not the issue. The leaky trans cooler in the radiator is the issue. One...

It is my understanding that many cars prior to 1975 were produced with hardened seats since manufacturers knew the unleaded mandate was coming and those cars were going to be subject to the rigors of running with unleaded gas. They didn't want a bad rap when those cars that were only a...

Looks like only one in the factory service manual. Dennis

As I remember, only the one o-ring in the groove on the shaft. The other will not allow the plastic gear to seat properly. Dennis

These guys claim to have it all. Maybe even talk to them and buy only the pieces you need. Dennis http://www.accurateltd.com/1963-73-225-Slant6_c_71.html http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=61_36_125

Not being smart but do you realize part #44 is screwed in over top of it? If you can see #44 in the fuel bowl, you have to remove the two screws in it to get to the rest of it. Dennis

Don't worry about it. At least you ask before making costly and troublesome mistakes. Replace the seal while the engine is out. As someone asked, do you have a service manual? You really should get one, especially if you are going this deep into your car. Get the factory service manual too...

You have to press it in. With a little bit of caution, you can do it without any special tools but nice to have a small arbor press to get even pressure. Dennis

As some others have said, it's not that cheap to grab a small block and just "drop" it in. My car is 7 years older than yours so I know the problems are not identical but I am just about done "dropping" mine in and so far, beside the engine, I have had to get a tranny, motor mounts...

I have a Pertronix in my car and love it! I forget about it being there. I do carry another distributor in the trunk only because of the commentary on the forums. My question is: Has anyone on here ever had one fail on them? I don't want to hear about your buddies cousins wifes Dart. Just...

Should be able to pick one up at most any auto parts store. It is a Dorman part(the little parts on the "Help" cards) I believe. I get mine at Autozone, Advance or Oreily. Dennis

Got a Pertronix on mine. Easy install. No fuss, no muss. Don't even think about it any more. Forgot it was there. Dennis

I like it!! Just looking at it is impressive. Heck, it doesn't even need to run and it would be cool. I would think it would be responsive. Dennis

Thanks for the kind words StrokerScamp. I really want to neaten up the linkage some more(I like the eye candy stuff) and make it look more "finished" but it works so well that I just keep driving it. By the way, the car does look a lot better than the pics I have posted. That was a couple of...

A buddy of mine who knows carbs well suggested the divider. one barrel per three cylinders...guaranteed. If it didn't work, I could always remove it but have found no reason to. It REALLY responds to carb adjustments. I like that two single barrels for the WOW factor but linkage would be...

I knew that was coming. I used parts of the original linkage and fabricated some of my own. Like I said, it's been working well for about 2 years now. I just now added a couple of picture to the link. Hope they help. Dennis By the way, understand that the JB Weld was just a gasket/sealer and...

This is not a hard project. I ground the manifold pad down with a 4 1/2 grinder, checking it to keep it flat. Then mounted an aluminum plate with a thin layer on JB Weld between as a sealer for any imperfections. The plate is actually bolted on tho. Here are some pics. Been running it for about...

Not gonna happen. PO probably threw whatever in there and were not correct to start with. I'm running them in mine right now and I'm sure you have seen that these are the suggested plugs elsewhere on the forum. They need to be that long to reach the best area for the spark to ignite the mixture...

Remove the rings and you are good to go. The sleeves actually serve as your gasket. Dennis

Just want to say that I think it's great that someone your age is taking an interest in this stuff. I hope you have enough good experiences that it keeps the spirit going for a long time. It really is truly rewarding when you can look at something and say "Yeah! I did that." Good luck and if...

PM me an address and I'll mail you one Monday if you can wait on it. Dennis

Did you get your starter from a parts house or from a junkyard? I did the same change on my car and had the same problem. I had got mine at a local pull and pay. Wouldn't you know, a whole junkyard full of cars and trucks and I find the bad one(my luck kinda runs like that). Did a little...

+1 on the engine running. It's not like hydraulic lifters squirting oil all over. I know a an old dealership mechanic and he says that's how they did it. That's also how I do it. JMO I think it's more accurate. How do you know exactly what is "almost open" and what is "almost closed"? Sounds...

You can get more timing out of it. There is anther bolt opposite the one you see but it is on the bottom side of the distro. Hard to see and harder to get to but there is a special wrench made to get there or I use a crowfoot wrench. If this doesn't get what you need, you'll have to move the...

Sometimes the bolt is there, sometimes it isn't. Depends on what mood the people at the assembly plant were in. More times than not, they used the bolt to install the damper then removed it. The damper is held on by friction. Kinda petty, you'd think they could afford to let a 3/4 inch bolt go.