360 engine

-
Bills70

Bills70

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2010
Messages
477
Reaction score
45
Location
cadillac michigan
I have a 1970 Duster with 360 engine with comp20-813-9 extreme energy roller cam, roller lifters and bored .040 over and this is my first Mopar. my question is what degree thermostat should I run? I am running a 195 degree at the moment but I always ran a 165 degree in my old chevys back in the day!
 
Bills70 said:
I have a 1970 Duster with 360 engine with comp20-813-9 extreme energy roller cam, roller lifters and bored .040 over and this is my first Mopar. my question is what degree thermostat should I run? I am running a 195 degree at the moment but I always ran a 165 degree in my old chevys back in the day!
Click to expand...

I have always run 180 thermostats in small block LA motors. Seems to be the most common stat that the pars stores keep in stock.
 
160 only in hot weather state
160 only if all long runs after starting
if short trips and cold weather stick with the 195 or 205
too much fuel dilution/ wash with a cold stat in a daily driver
 
180-- depends on how much heater you need in Michigan
but you have to get the oil warm to burn off the bad stuff or you get more wear- lots more wear
you get better mileage with a hotter stat
now if you have a detonation/ pinging problem then fix your tune - do not relay on the stat
not talking about a race car here where to get max tune you might have to go with a cold stat
 
Take that thermostat out and pitch it. Run nothing = more horsepower.
 
not true
when running no thermostat we run a calibrated washer
besides you'll work your water pump harder
 
Yeah. I'm just pulling your chain and see who bites. Keep the 195 stat.
 
I run nearly the same engine at 205*F, as measured with an IR gun at the stat house.The stat was stamped 195. I was happy when it ran at 205. She's been there since 1999. The stat sets the minimum temperature; so at 205 I have less wiggle-room if it should begin to overheat. So I souped up the cooling system to run rock-steady.
 
leaving the stat out with no restriction you get way too much and too fast flow
when getting a pump get one with a plate behind the impeller or a solid impeller
the plate prevents circulation around the impeller and holds down cavitation (which is easier if no thermostat)
The service bulletins on my Dakota go to a better pump, 18 lb cap, higher temp fan clutch actuation 185>195 and a 9 fin fan (2.5 versus old 3" pitch)7 blade (gm is using 11)
as with all stats they are all the same when wide open (well some stats flow more than others but try and find a Robertshaw balanced stat)
 
Run the 195 like the factory service manual says. The thermostat has ZERO effect on how hot the engine runs. If you want to do something performance related in the thermostat area, get a high flow thermostat, not a cooler one.
 
Wyrmrider said:
180-- depends on how much heater you need in Michigan
but you have to get the oil warm to burn off the bad stuff or you get more wear- lots more wear
you get better mileage with a hotter stat
now if you have a detonation/ pinging problem then fix your tune - do not relay on the stat
not talking about a race car here where to get max tune you might have to go with a cold stat
Click to expand...
I just got this car up and running, so I do not know much about it! I do not have any detonation or pinging that I am aware of, but the engine does want to keep running, some times, when I shut her off! I will only be driving the car in nice weather, no rain and god forbid ,no snow, most of my driving is going to be to a weekly car "cruise in" at Culvers in town, 10 miles there and back! the reason I was asking it just seems like the car runs hot, like when I come home after a run and I pull the hood off, the engine just seems to me to be hot, smells hot, maybe it is just the heat I feel coming from the "new" aluminum radiator or maybe I have not been under the hood of a hot car much, after I have went for a drive! When I drive the car the engine temp runs up to 195, then up and down from 180 to 195 at first, then it stays at 195 (so far!) Latter today, I think I will fill my gas tank up, "the gas gauge does not work yet", and have the wife follow me with the truck and drive the car 50 miles or so and see what happens! I probably should take a couple gallons of water with me and the tow strap just in case!
 
good plan
things to check if hot
timing to much or too little, vac advance working but maybe limited
carb tune
shroud, fan clutch, fan
valance under core support or front bumper makes a big difference
bad things like cam not positioned correctly
at the end of your trip do a quick clean shut off and pull a couple of plugs and inspect
when you get a chance do a compression check and write it down for future reference
ps cooler and big AT cooler especially if you have a loose converter
how wide is your radiator core? width (sq in) makes more difference than thickness- plug all the unnecessaryholes in the core support
nothing to worry about at 195
running on can be a thread showing in the combustion chamber and many other things
on some carbs there are selonids you can put on the idle adjuster that allow the throttle to completely close when the key is off
cold air to the carb and use the stove on the exhaust and connect to air cleaner like oem vacuum gives cold air when you need it
just make a wish list and do them as time allows
 
Wyrmrider said:
good plan
things to check if hot
timing to much or too little, vac advance working but maybe limited
carb tune
shroud, fan clutch, fan
valance under core support or front bumper makes a big difference
bad things like cam not positioned correctly
at the end of your trip do a quick clean shut off and pull a couple of plugs and inspect
when you get a chance do a compression check and write it down for future reference
ps cooler and big AT cooler especially if you have a loose converter
how wide is your radiator core? width (sq in) makes more difference than thickness- plug all the unnecessaryholes in the core support
nothing to worry about at 195
running on can be a thread showing in the combustion chamber and many other things
on some carbs there are selonids you can put on the idle adjuster that allow the throttle to completely close when the key is off
cold air to the carb and use the stove on the exhaust and connect to air cleaner like oem vacuum gives cold air when you need it
just make a wish list and do them as time allows
Click to expand...
timing is right where it was dynode at 36 degrees and 12 degrees at Idle and no vac. advance, carb is 1 1/2 turns at all four corners, I have a 5 bladed flex fan, no shroud yet, I need to make one, when you say valance, do you mean making one to covering up the bottom of core support and the open area under radiator hose? got pics? my aluminum radiator is made buy OER 22" x 17 3/4" and is suppose to meet the needs of high performance big blocks and small blocks. I do have a AT cooler but have not installed yet, I do have a TCI 3000/3500 stall converter. I have a Quick Fuel SS 750 carb, do they make a solenoid for it? I could not check plugs today it started raining! but I will
 
by valance you can read spoiler, black air dam
find a cop car or other with good thermol clutch fan and a 7 blade fan
flex fan- some are good some are useless- got a pic- but I'd put clutch on my to do list
your radiator should be fine
first thing is the AT cooler with your converter
if on the street once you get the mechanical dialed in get the vac working
 
there is no vacuum advance on my distributor! do you mean read it on the ABodies site (spoiler,black air dam) I am still not sure what your saying about valance? I should probably hook up a trans temp gauge when I do the cooler? here is pic of fan and radiator, will any 7 blade work and will a magnum 360 clutch fan work or does it have to be from an LA360

DSC00284.JPG
 
has to be from a LA small block and the fan must be the size of your radiator
the magnum serpentine system could be retrofitted but why?
you know the fans are pitched backward on the Magnum
do you have a spacer on that fan? can't tell from the pic
do whatever you can to increase the pressure in front of the radiator and create low pressure behind it
looks good
not impressed with that fan
on trans cooler new or pic a part? Fords have good ones cheap you are looking for plate and fin not S Shaped tubing and fins
Mopar went to 3/8 lines and half inch on the diesels- let me know if you have 5/16
 
Wyrmrider said:
has to be from a LA small block and the fan must be the size of your radiator
the magnum serpentine system could be retrofitted but why?
you know the fans are pitched backward on the Magnum
do you have a spacer on that fan? can't tell from the pic
do whatever you can to increase the pressure in front of the radiator and create low pressure behind it
looks good
not impressed with that fan
on trans cooler new or pic a part? Fords have good ones cheap you are looking for plate and fin not S Shaped tubing and fins
Mopar went to 3/8 lines and half inch on the diesels- let me know if you have 5/16
Click to expand...
I bought cooler new from Jeg's, it's a TCI unit Mod#823500 lines going thru cooler look to be 3/8" maybe 1/2" but did not measure them, I could not find my tape measure! I found a fan clutch set up at junkyard here in Cadillac Mi for $45.00 I am not sure what fan it has on it but more than likely 6 blades (they did not know) they just knew they had one. I will go tomorrow and look see. will a 6 blade work? oh yea, does that price for clutch fan sound about right?
 
sounds good with the fan
BVVC about the length of the mounting to clutch there are short and long
you can space out a short one but long one might hit your radiator with the center of the clutch
measure your water pump hub to radiator (just rough is ok) and take it with you
tight fit on my 68 dodge 318 but I had a 440 radiator
measure your fan
I think 6 blades was about it on early motors
what's this clutch/ fan off of?

3/8 connections are fine for a TF I use 1/2 for OD
sound about right- have you priced a new one?
 
Wyrmrider said:
sounds good with the fan
BVVC about the length of the mounting to clutch there are short and long
you can space out a short one but long one might hit your radiator with the center of the clutch
measure your water pump hub to radiator (just rough is ok) and take it with you
tight fit on my 68 dodge 318 but I had a 440 radiator
measure your fan
I think 6 blades was about it on early motors
what's this clutch/ fan off of?

3/8 connections are fine for a TF I use 1/2 for OD
sound about right- have you priced a new one?
Click to expand...
like I said I already bought the TCI cooler from Jeg's and gave you the model#823500 I will be sure to measure fan clutch assy. and take with me! I will also let you know what is off of! I appreciate help with this! I just found out the clutch fan is off 2001 dodge ram pick up with 5 blade fan, will it work? if it will I can always buy a fan blade. I just called Auto Value and I can get a NEW 6 blade set up for about $70.00
 
Bills70 said:
there is no vacuum advance on my distributor! do you mean read it on the ABodies site (spoiler,black air dam) I am still not sure what your saying about valance? I should probably hook up a trans temp gauge when I do the cooler? here is pic of fan and radiator, will any 7 blade work and will a magnum 360 clutch fan work or does it have to be from an LA360

View attachment 1715206145
Click to expand...


Your fan is close enough to the radiator it won't do anything except waste your time and burn your money.

The only thing is without a shroud you are exposed to the fan and can quickly give yourself some sheet time in the ER if you are not careful.
 
yellow rose said:
Your fan is close enough to the radiator it won't do anything except waste your time and burn your money.

The only thing is without a shroud you are exposed to the fan and can quickly give yourself some sheet time in the ER if you are not careful.
Click to expand...
I drew a blue print up for a shroud and took it to the welding fab shop but have no idea when they will get er done!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top