Found an LSD on my parts rack. Also ordered a 3.73 ring and pinion, already have 489 case and a center section rebuild kit. I think the LSD is an Auburn "Pro-Series" but I'm not sure, it's 30 spline and an 8.75 ring slips right on it.
'69 Valiant 2DR Project
- Thread starter DNasty777
- Start date
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Setting up this differential has been an absolute chore. I'm not sure what's going on with it but a can't seem to get consistent readings on the backlash. I've tried to set it three times so far.
hdwrench
Member
looks like ur progressing nicely ! i like that body style and would buy one if i found one i good shape ! i gotta 340 sitting in the corner i’d love the run again …
hdwrench
Member
just realized ur in rochester, i’m not far from u probably about 80 mi south
Awesome, love seeing mopars in chevy country.
I've used a dial indicator to set backlash like my first few times and from there have set it up by feel. Never had an issue. I have a friend whose a local old school drag race legend here who even sets backlash up at zero and lets it wear in the lash on break in. He's probably 85 or so now and has been doing it longer than I've been alive. He calls it a "loose zero". lol
I've never messed with differentials before so I don't know what I don't know, you know? I'll try again tomorrow before work.
Well like I always say, what I know fits on the head of pin with room left over. lol
I totally missed the knock sensor part. What sensor is that and which ECU? Looks like you mounted it to the magnum motor mount boss? Nice!
The knock sensors are Bosch 0261231188, one for each bank, and the connectors are EV1. I had to ream out the through-hole for the 3/8" bolt, IIRC the sensor bolt holes are 8mm. I'm using a Terminator X ecu.
Edit: To expand on the sensor selection, I chose these sensors because of the mounting style and supposedly they are non-resonant sensors that will pick up all frequencies, and can filter the frequency through the TermX. Bosch Motorsport also makes knock sensors that look externally very similar to these OEM ones, but they are much more expensive. If these don't work out I will pick up the Motorsport ones later, maybe.
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
You might find that they work too well. It’s very hard (at least in my limited experience) to filter out the actual frequency of knock and pinpoint it. False knock retard is a real thing.
Yeah I've read about that. I'll likely not use an automatic knock retard, at least not right off the bat. In theory from what I've read, I should be able to use second and third order harmonics to hopefully filter out non-knock noise.
I just figured the ECU has two knock inputs and I'll be damned if I didn't spend $1k to not use every last input and output.
Ok, so I figured out my issue regarding setting up the differential. In my haste, I read the marker on the pinion as "11", missing the "0". After further inspection its not "110" that would seem way too excessive, it's "40". My .010 shim was not nearly enough. Ruined the bearing pulling it off, so I have another coming from amazon tomorrow. Hopefully that solves my issue.
I got the center section where I need it. We’ll see if it whines if I ever get this car on the road.
I also got the coils mounted on the valve covers. I welded up the breather holes and welded on some alu D585 coil brackets. I’ll add -10AN bungs on the back of the covers for a puke tank. Also got some spark plugs and wires on it.
Next I’ll work on a permanent rad and intercooler mount so I can finalize the cold side and coolant lines. The boom tubes are temporary, I’ll have to make some new ones with pie cuts to route them the way I want them.
I also got the coils mounted on the valve covers. I welded up the breather holes and welded on some alu D585 coil brackets. I’ll add -10AN bungs on the back of the covers for a puke tank. Also got some spark plugs and wires on it.
Next I’ll work on a permanent rad and intercooler mount so I can finalize the cold side and coolant lines. The boom tubes are temporary, I’ll have to make some new ones with pie cuts to route them the way I want them.
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I hooked up some wiring things, just temporarily, to get power to the engine harness, ECU, ignition switch, and starter. Starter spins up and the ECU powers up properly. I don't have the torque converter in, so it doesn't kick the engine over. I still have to pull the trans to install the TC and valve body. I hooked up the laptop and loaded a tune file today, found some issues with the MAP, MAT, and CTS sensors. The MAP connector is wired backwards so it's pinned to a high reading. The MAT and CTS sensors are two wire thermistor sensors, so I'll have to do some research on how to test those sensors and wiring, they are reading Low Error, same reading when unplugged. I really hope it's something simple as I really don't want to have to send this ECU back. I also got a new rad, 12" fans and shroud that need some customizing. The shroud needs to be trimmed in a couple of the corners to fit like I want it and AN bungs welded for the inlet and outlet. I have some brackets for the rad mounts being laser cut so hopefully I'll have those this week.
Nice to see progress on this! Glad you got the differential figured out.
I’ve been working long hours so I haven’t been able to do much of the fab work that needs to get done.
I have an update on the sensor issue though. Unfortunately after troubleshooting and de-looming the whole harness, it turns out the ECU is no good. I sent it back to Holley and they confirmed it. Thank god I found out now and not next month as they only honor a 1 year warranty and I’d be out another $800 dollars for a replacement ECU. They stated I should get it late October or early November.
Just a word of advice for anyone considering a Holley ECU, test it immediately as soon as you get it.
I have an update on the sensor issue though. Unfortunately after troubleshooting and de-looming the whole harness, it turns out the ECU is no good. I sent it back to Holley and they confirmed it. Thank god I found out now and not next month as they only honor a 1 year warranty and I’d be out another $800 dollars for a replacement ECU. They stated I should get it late October or early November.
Just a word of advice for anyone considering a Holley ECU, test it immediately as soon as you get it.
I got the radiator lower supports tacked in place which puts the radiator where I want it. Also made the upper and lower coolant hoses and mocked up the fans and shroud.
Added an oil fill port and -10AN breather to both valve covers today.
I really like the way you bent those down bars and tied them to the frame. I’m stealing…err…borrowing that idea.
Steal away! I will add that the total structure isn’t done though, I’ll be adding a removable cross brace and probably something that ties into the upper shock mounts.
DieWilde13
Well-Known Member
Wow, just found this Thred. Awesome work! I like alot! Keep up!
Looks all so easy!
Subscribed!
Looks all so easy!
Subscribed!
Pulled the trans today to change out the valve body. Going in is a Turbo Action reverse manual valve body. Check out the oil baffle that was in this trans, pretty neat. The valve body that was in it is pretty slick too apparently, my friends uncle set this trans up years ago and my friend wants this VB back. I have to get a new filter extension as turbo action wants a pickup with only one hole. Also got some new heads so I decided to mock up the rockers.
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