A/C Compressor Swap

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512Stroker

512Stroker

We are all here because we are not all there.
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I have a 67 Barracuda with factory A/C which actual works OK.
Does anyone have real world experience with changing out the factory A/C compressor with an aftermarket compressor while retaining the rest of the factory A/C system?
What works? What are the do's and dont's?
Thanks in advance
 
No real world experience - yet! On my 65 Dart wagon, I'll be using the complete factory AC equipment with the exception of the compressor - which will be a new Sanden I bought. I should probably switch out the condenser but I will use what I have on hand.
 
65 Dartman said:
No real world experience - yet! On my 65 Dart wagon, I'll be using the complete factory AC equipment with the exception of the compressor - which will be a new Sanden I bought. I should probably switch out the condenser but I will use what I have on hand.
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Good luck
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
Seriously, if it's not broke, why fix it?
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I hear ya, but my old compressor has seen it's better days and I would like to do a serpentine belt upgrade and I was told I cant do it with the factory A/C compressor. Were they wrong?
Thanks for the comeback.
 
I'm working on retrofitting 80s Dodge truck C171 compressor and hoses on my 74 Duster with factory AC. All that's left is to do the hoses and charge up the system. So no real world results yet, but I think it should work well. Details on what I have done so far here - Budget underhood AC retrofit.

Cley
 
replace the drier, get a 134 expansion valve and spend the money for a new condenser (manifold type). Your cooling system needs to be up to the task, fan clutch, shroud.
 
Any compressor should work with your system. A Sanden is much smaller, lighter, and a bit more efficient. There are brackets for all engines, but slant brackets are harder to find. Why not tell us what engine you have? A serpentine belt system is mainly for bling. V-belts give much less issues like thrown belts and also more options for getting home if a belt breaks. Most important for AC is having the largest condenser possible. New aluminum parallel-flow ones work better. What size compressor you need depends on where you live. An early Barracuda might need more with all that glass. The smallest H13 Sanden (Honda Civics) might work for some people.
 
BillGrissom said:
Any compressor should work with your system. A Sanden is much smaller, lighter, and a bit more efficient. There are brackets for all engines, but slant brackets are harder to find. Why not tell us what engine you have? A serpentine belt system is mainly for bling. V-belts give much less issues like thrown belts and also more options for getting home if a belt breaks. Most important for AC is having the largest condenser possible. New aluminum parallel-flow ones work better. What size compressor you need depends on where you live. An early Barracuda might need more with all that glass. The smallest H13 Sanden (Honda Civics) might work for some people.
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Great info - thanks
I have a 340 in the car and will most likely upgrade to a serpentine belt configuration.
 
I have a 65 dart Convert. All the inside parts are factory 1965. I have a 5.9 Mag engine so I have the compressor for a Dodge Dakota. The 134 expansion valve and condenser are Classic Air units, which I think the condenser is too small. Custom hoses and its all hooked up. I'm not sure if it's just because its a vert or not, but I'm disappointed in the way it cools. Wish I had used an after market evaporator.
Just my 2 cents.
easyrider
 
I did. I have a 68 Barracuda with a 340 and put a Sanden style pump on. I run March Performance pulleys and used their kit. I ended up making a few hoses. I cut the factory hose off from the low side and tig welded a crimp fitting on it and then crimped new rubber and a new end on to go to the pump. Kept everything else the same. Factory condenser, evaporator, filter/drier, hard line running on the passenger inner fender, TX valve, you name it, it's stock, except the Sanden pump. Kept it R12 too. It blows cold and works like a charm.
 
rednesss said:
I did. I have a 68 Barracuda with a 340 and put a Sanden style pump on. I run March Performance pulleys and used their kit. I ended up making a few hoses. I cut the factory hose off from the low side and tig welded a crimp fitting on it and then crimped new rubber and a new end on to go to the pump. Kept everything else the same. Factory condenser, evaporator, filter/drier, hard line running on the passenger inner fender, TX valve, you name it, it's stock, except the Sanden pump. Kept it R12 too. It blows cold and works like a charm.
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I like it, where did you score the compressor brackets from and which model Sanden compressor did you use?
 
Try CVF Racing for the compressor and mounting brackets. I just bought their complete pulley system for my 73 - PS, crank, water pump, alt, and AC. The compressor and brackets fit like a charm and look great, too.
 
supertruck said:
Try CVF Racing for the compressor and mounting brackets. I just bought their complete pulley system for my 73 - PS, crank, water pump, alt, and AC. The compressor and brackets fit like a charm and look great, too.
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You must have a passenger side water pump inlet, I am looking for a driver side set up.
 
This will upset a lot of people, but I use hydrocarbon refrigerant (Duracool) in all my vehicles (even 1996 & 2002 after compressor replacements), with PAO 68 oil. Many bizarre claims of "explosive", yet no such actual case in millions of cars using it for decades. I did grad school research in combustion, so am allowed to think for myself. R-134A is being discontinued and no good alternative but rare R-12.
 
BillGrissom said:
This will upset a lot of people, but I use hydrocarbon refrigerant (Duracool) in all my vehicles (even 1996 & 2002 after compressor replacements), with PAO 68 oil. Many bizarre claims of "explosive", yet no such actual case in millions of cars using it for decades. I did grad school research in combustion, so am allowed to think for myself. R-134A is being discontinued and no good alternative but rare R-12.
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Have you tried it in the old Mpoar v twin compressor?
 
Sorry for the late reply (not really a conversation forum like Snapchat). I am sure someone has used HC refrigerant in an RV2 compressor. I have used HC for decades in my 65 Newport which still has the York compressor as-bought (common retrofit, dealer?). That is also a 2-piston compressor. Indeed, all compressors I have seen have pistons and flapper valves (Sanden, R4, ...), so same basic compression technology. Even if not, I have no idea why that would matter. HC is compatible with all oils, including the factory mineral oil. I would drain out any PAG oil (used w/ R-134A) since it absorbs moisture (to cause corrosion). Hella's PAO 68 is the best oil choice today, for any refrigerant.
 
I’ve converted 2 systems using RV/RV2 compressors. I use RedTek which is similar to Duracool. Never had an issue with the 40 something degree air.
 
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