Any tricks to removing a stuck/stubborn/rusted-in place bleeder?

-
ProjectBazza

ProjectBazza

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2023
Messages
988
Reaction score
1,998
Location
Somewhere north of Minne-a-no-place
I'm trying to get Bazza's VG to MITP next month, but one of the issues with driving it there is that the front brakes are "so-so" at best, and I can't bleed them, as the bleeders are stuck in the calipers. When it was here last summer I ran out of time, and money, but I did try bleeding the brakes when I got everything else done. Only problem is, I could literally see the bleeder twisting as I tried to loosen it up, and since his car uses Sterling calipers and discs/rotors (IOW, NLA and big $$$), I didn't want to risk breaking the bleeder and/or stripping out the caliper.

I did try soaking the bleeders with some JB-80 "luber-schlider", but that didn't seem to help.

I know Bazza would really like to drive his car to MITP, so does anyone know of a handy way to break open stuck/rusted brake bleeders?

Thanks.

Jim
 
Here is a old trick that always worked for me. Heat it not red but hot with a Bernzomatic torch then take a cheap *** birthday candle and put it on it the wax wicks into the thread, Wait a few min and it breaks free. Seriously look it up been around since the 20's.
 
halifaxhops said:
Here is a old trick that always worked for me. Heat it not red but hot with a Bernzomatic torch then take a cheap *** birthday candle and put it on it the wax wicks into the thread, Wait a few min and it breaks free. Seriously look it up been around since the 20's.
Click to expand...
No kidding? Almost 60 years old, and I've never heard of this!

I'm going up there soon to put the gas tank back in the car, and I'll give this a whirl.

Thanks!
 
Like what Hoppy said, never heard of that eather, but I would just change out the wheel cylinder. He is a smart fellow that @halifaxhops
 
memike said:
Like what Hoppy said, never heard of that eather, but I would just change out the wheel cylinder. He is a smart fellow that @halifaxhops
Click to expand...
I wish it was that easy! The front calipers are Sterling brand, and I've had a helluva time just finding rebuild kits for them ("just in case", you know?), let alone new calipers.

Sure wish I didn't run into all of this "domestic content" BS every time I turn around with his car.
 
ProjectBazza said:
I wish it was that easy! The front calipers are Sterling brand, and I've had a helluva time just finding rebuild kits for them ("just in case", you know?), let alone new calipers.

Sure wish I didn't run into all of this "domestic content" BS every time I turn around with his car.
Click to expand...
Oh, didn't know about the Sterling brand, hope its an easier time getting the bleader out, sending some Hoppy positive vibes on heating and wax deal.
 
ProjectBazza said:
I'm trying to get Bazza's VG to MITP next month, but one of the issues with driving it there is that the front brakes are "so-so" at best, and I can't bleed them, as the bleeders are stuck in the calipers. When it was here last summer I ran out of time, and money, but I did try bleeding the brakes when I got everything else done. Only problem is, I could literally see the bleeder twisting as I tried to loosen it up, and since his car uses Sterling calipers and discs/rotors (IOW, NLA and big $$$), I didn't want to risk breaking the bleeder and/or stripping out the caliper.

I did try soaking the bleeders with some JB-80 "luber-schlider", but that didn't seem to help.

I know Bazza would really like to drive his car to MITP, so does anyone know of a handy way to break open stuck/rusted brake bleeders?

Thanks.

Jim
Click to expand...


If you already noticed the bleeders were spinning without coming loose it may be too late.

Be careful with the heat, especially around the rubber components. I sometimes use transmission fluid mixed 50/50 with acetone as a home brew, for me it works better than commercial penetrating oils at removing rusted nuts and bolts. A little heat can help after the bleeders have soaked overnight or at least a few hours if there is a time crunch..

Good luck
 
Heywodja said:
If you already noticed the bleeders were spinning without coming loose it may be too late.

Be careful with the heat, especially around the rubber components. I sometimes use transmission fluid mixed 50/50 with acetone as a home brew, for me it works better than commercial penetrating oils at removing rusted nuts and bolts. A little heat can help after the bleeders have soaked overnight or at least a few hours if there is a time crunch..

Good luck
Click to expand...
Thank you!

Not sure if there's going to be any hurry on this or not. The car is in storage about 3 hours away, and if I can't get the bleeders broke free on the initial visit coming up, I may just end-up bringing it back home again so I can work on it at my place. Don't really want to do that, as I have my own sh...., er, "stuff" to work on, but....

I'll take a batch of your 50/50 with me and we'll see how it goes.

Thanks!
 
Every rebuilt caliper I have ever seen had new (larger) bleeders installed. They were usually metric. Some bleeders you can't break loose and you have to drill them out, retap, and install a new one. All when you are rebuilding them of course.
 
I've used these on misc applications, either drill existing/broken bleeder down to fluid, "pipe" tap threads into that, or sometimes I'll drill somewhere elsewhere at the top for ease of bleeding.
The bleeder screw fits into the brass fitting.
They work really well, come in a few sizes to suit.
Good luck


Screenshot_20240402-131538.png
 
Last edited:
ProjectBazza said:
Thank you!

Not sure if there's going to be any hurry on this or not. The car is in storage about 3 hours away, and if I can't get the bleeders broke free on the initial visit coming up, I may just end-up bringing it back home again so I can work on it at my place. Don't really want to do that, as I have my own sh...., er, "stuff" to work on, but....

I'll take a batch of your 50/50 with me and we'll see how it goes.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I use 50/50 atf and acetone as well, and it does work well.
Sadly neither that nor wax and heat worked and both bleeders snapped off flush.

Yep, new calipers.
 
Have had luck bleeding at the fitting where the line goes into the caliper/wheel cylinder as it gets any air out of the incoming line. Presents fresh fluid up to this point to head into the caliper.

PB Blaster soak for 24 hours if you have time. Use the special 6 sided brake line wrench so you don't round off the line nut.

Back and forth a little at a time. Carefully heating the nut with oxy acetylene torch, then more PB Blaster helps loosen them up too. (If it is a rubber flex line coming in, don't use heat)

50 year old cars, got to bend the rules once in a while to avoid a can of worms.
 
Are the calipers Aluminum?


ProjectBazza said:
only problem is, I could literally see the bleeder twisting as I tried to loosen it up
Click to expand...

you said you saw the bleeder twisting, that would suggest that metal of the bleeder is already stretched meaning there is likely no way around it but to remove the caliper and either use typical destructive means to remove the bleeder. Left hand drill bits have been known to save the day. I would disassemble the entire caliper of pistons, rubber, and hoses so they can be properly cleaned of metal shavings before reassembly

ProjectBazza said:
I wish it was that easy! The front calipers are Sterling brand, and I've had a helluva time just finding rebuild kits for them ("just in case", you know?), let alone new calipers.
Click to expand...
I googled "Sterling Calipers" and got this, don't know if they are the correct part?



1712075935875.png



ProjectBazza said:
No kidding? Almost 60 years old, and I've never heard of this!
Click to expand...
me either till I have seen a number of you tube videos of late saying its the cats meow

I believe the heat is the #1 reason the wax treatment works.

Not as scientific as I would like to see but...
 
Kroil Oil is the only way to go. A wide 6 point wrench and the best pair of vise grips you own. If all else fails a little heat afterward. I've also just cut the head off a quick drill out and tap. That never fails.
 
Brake bleeder? Heat is worth a try but keep in mind any moisture inside the line will boil causing pressure or steam. In my experience the bleeders snap yes you can drill and tap but its tricky surgery because you don't want to drill into the seat. Id use PB blaster and an impact source like an impact screw driver with a dead blow hammer. If that didn't work Id then apply a little heat and more dead blow impact etc. You could use an air impact wrench but id go 3/8 drive and start on a low air setting and slowly ramp it up. Like said the bleeders usually break off in extreme cases...
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Brake bleeder? Heat is worth a try but keep in mind any moisture inside the line will boil causing pressure or steam. In my experience the bleeders snap yes you can drill and tap but its tricky surgery because you don't want to drill into the seat.
Click to expand...

That's the idea, drill to, or thru the seat, you're installing new of both in a few mins, just need the pipe thread to seal.
No "tricky surgery" required, just a drill and tap. lol
Cheers
 
Last edited:
I just had to do this on some Kelsey Hayes calipers. I just plan to replace the bleeder in the beginning. So, don’t use a wrench it’ll just round the bleeder off. Start with vise grips, a big pair, clamped TIGHT. Heat the caliper around the bleeder, hot but not red, use lots of penetrating oil. The Kroil mentioned above works best for me. Once hot and wet (see what I did there) turn the Vice grips both directions back and forth, tight first then loose. Keep heating and spraying and tugging back and forth. Sometimes a few taps with a small hammer on the Vice grips helps. They will come loose, or break off. Good luck.
 
If you are concerned about appearance, you could drill, tap, install seat as deep as poss.
Then grind hex and rest the seat fitting flush with caliper casting, install bleed screw, - who would know, - without sticking their nose right in there .
jmo
 
ProjectBazza said:
No kidding? Almost 60 years old, and I've never heard of this!

I'm going up there soon to put the gas tank back in the car, and I'll give this a whirl.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I was told to wack it really good with a hammer off to the side for the shock value to help loosen it up. Heat comes after if that’s a failure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top