Anybody running the RMS AlterKation? Was it really worth the cost?

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Coming from the guy who bashes Hotchkis leaf springs, upper control arms for being junk and wearing out in 7,000 miles, their kits are too expensive, their sway bars are not the best out there ...

But then he goes onto say that look at the Corvette Z06 type handling that the Hotchkis Taxi got
"putting down better lap times at the TireRack test track than the 2012 3 series BMW's"!!!!!

Yup, that's the guy I want telling me to leave in my leaf springs and torsion bars.
 
All suspensions have their merits, pros and cons for everything. You pays your moneys and in the case of suspension, you do-s your maths.
 
I am one that hears you. I came on here to answer his question and not get into a pissing match with stock suspension guys. I have been a mopar fan since the early sixties. I've owned mopars since the early seventies. I drove a,b,c,m etc. bodies and know how they drove. I also drove my barracuda for ten years before I took it apart. There is no comparison, that is just my opinion. If you never had a chance to experience other suspensions there shouldn't be any comments. Also I could never afford a alter k so I just went up to Bill and asked if I could on payments. He let me pay that way. if you want one I would just call Bill and talk to him. Mark

Driving stock mopars in the sixties and seventies wouldn't give you any idea what the torsion bar suspension is capable of. Tire performance/capability alone would rule out comparing any experience you had to anything now. The torsion bar suspension can be updated with a few modern parts to give it far superior performance to anything it was capable of in stock form.

If you want to go fast, you modify a torsion bar suspension, if you you want to blow thousands of dollars, you buy aftermarket, and if you think steering "feel" has anything to do with performance other than band-aiding your lack of driving skill....well...just know the fastest auto x, circle track, and oval track Mopars have torsion bars

Exactly.

Coming from the guy who bashes Hotchkis leaf springs, upper control arms for being junk and wearing out in 7,000 miles, their kits are too expensive, their sway bars are not the best out there ...

But then he goes onto say that look at the Corvette Z06 type handling that the Hotchkis Taxi got
"putting down better lap times at the TireRack test track than the 2012 3 series BMW's"!!!!!

Yup, that's the guy I want telling me to leave in my leaf springs and torsion bars.

First, the C06 referenced was outlapped by Tim Werner's Valiant, not the Hotchkis cars. Second, you're missing a very important logical conclusion, which would be obvious if you would just listen.

Yes, the Hotchkis taxi can and have beat up on 2012 3 series BMW's with the same driver and tires. Which says a lot, not only because that's a 4 door Satellite but also because you can set up a torsion bar car to handle better than the Hotchkis Taxi. That's the point you have obviously missed. There is still room for improvement there, and that's why I don't run lockstep with supporting every single part Hotchkis makes. They make great parts, and their TVS kit is a great start for someone that wants to get all their parts in one place and know they'll work together seamlessly. But, if you do your homework you can build a better handling car for less than the TVS costs by spending more money on the parts that make the biggest improvements and leaving off some of the fancy stuff that doesn't make as much of a difference in performance. But the responsibility for mixing and matching your parts and making sure they all work ends up on you if you do it that way. Hotchkis makes great parts, but they're not all equally important. And in a few cases there are better performing parts out there.

But on that note, I haven't "bashed" any hotchkis parts, with possible exception of the longevity of their heim joints. And really I wouldn't call that bashing, just explaining the experience I've had. I have wiped out a set of heim's on the UCA's in my Challenger in 7k miles and am working on wiping out a second set. And everytime I mention that I also mention that Hotchkis replaced my first set of heims for free, because they're awesome. They really are, for the design of their parts and their customer service. But the issue is due to running heim joints on the street and it is not unique to Hotchkis parts. Heims just don't belong on the UCA's of a street car, at least in my experience. Track car is whole different story, suspension is all about application. I use UCA's from other manufacturers because they don't use heims, but those other UCA's still accomplish the same task of improved suspension geometry. The Hotchkis UCA's would be the nicest on the market if they would just drop the heim joints. I'd rather have double adjustable UCA's, but street cars really don't need those. As for the leafs, there are members here that had issues with the Hotchkis leaf springs, there are members here now (that have purchased recently) that do not. I don't run them because I'm a cheap bastard, not because of their performance. I've just pointed out that others have had issues so people are informed that not everyone likes them, mostly because they lower the car more than most want to lower their cars. Their sway bars are probably the best out there for quality and performance. The Hotchkis sway bars I have on my Challenger are brilliant. They're also the most expensive. For their function I usually recommend the Hellwig bars (that I run on my Duster) just because of their cost-effectiveness. They do basically the same job for less. But the Hotchkis stuff is lighter, and possibly a higher quality. They're just not absolutely necessary, and since most people wouldn't notice the difference for their application (ie, primarily street use) I usually recommend the Hellwig bars.

All suspensions have their merits, pros and cons for everything. You pays your moneys and in the case of suspension, you do-s your maths.

Exactly.

When it all comes down to it, all of the coilover suspensions are un-equal length, double A-arm suspensions. That's your basic suspension design category. Guess what? So is the torsion bar suspension on these cars. Upper control arm, lower control arm, spindle in the middle, ball joints, etc, just like the basic coilover suspension design. The difference is the spring pivot locations and the shape of the spring. Those create some geometry differences (as do the length and design of the control arms), change the center of gravity, and put the springs in different locations. But a torsion bar is a spring just like a coil spring is a spring, and a shock is a shock regardless of whether or not is has a spring over the top of it.

Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Suspension design, and even tuning, is all about compromises and application.
 
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Driving stock mopars in the sixties and seventies wouldn't give you any idea what the torsion bar suspension is capable of. Tire performance/capability alone would rule out comparing any experience you had to anything now. The torsion bar suspension can be updated with a few modern parts to give it far superior performance to anything it was capable of in stock form.



Exactly.


I am one that hears you I came on hear to answer his question and not get into a pissing match with stock suspention guys. I have a mopar fan since the early sixtes. I owned mopaers since the early seventies. drove a,b,c,m etc bodies and know how they drove. I also drove my barracuda for ten years before I took it apart. there is no comparison that is jusr my opinion. If you never had a chance to experanice other suspentions there shouldn,t be any.I liked your comment
First, the C06 referenced was outlapped by Tim Werner's Valiant, not the Hotchkis cars. Second, you're missing a very important logical conclusion, which would be obvious if you would just listen.

Yes, the Hotchkis taxi can and have beat up on 2012 3 series BMW's with the same driver and tires. Which says a lot, not only because that's a 4 door Satellite but also because you can set up a torsion bar car to handle better than the Hotchkis Taxi. That's the point you have obviously missed. There is still room for improvement there, and that's why I don't run lockstep with supporting every single part Hotchkis makes. They make great parts, and their TVS kit is a great start for someone that wants to get all their parts in one place and know they'll work together seamlessly. But, if you do your homework you can build a better handling car for less than the TVS costs by spending more money on the parts that make the biggest improvements and leaving off some of the fancy stuff that doesn't make as much of a difference in performance. But the responsibility for mixing and matching your parts and making sure they all work ends up on you if you do it that way. Hotchkis makes great parts, but they're not all equally important. And in a few cases there are better performing parts out there.

But on that note, I haven't "bashed" any hotchkis parts, with possible exception of the longevity of their heim joints. And really I wouldn't call that bashing, just explaining the experience I've had. I have wiped out a set of heim's on the UCA's in my Challenger in 7k miles and am working on wiping out a second set. And everytime I mention that I also mention that Hotchkis replaced my first set of heims for free, because they're awesome. They really are, for the design of their parts and their customer service. But the issue is due to running heim joints on the street and it is not unique to Hotchkis parts. Heims just don't belong on the UCA's of a street car, at least in my experience. Track car is whole different story, suspension is all about application. I use UCA's from other manufacturers because they don't use heims, but those other UCA's still accomplish the same task of improved suspension geometry. The Hotchkis UCA's would be the nicest on the market if they would just drop the heim joints. I'd rather have double adjustable UCA's, but street cars really don't need those. As for the leafs, there are members here that had issues with the Hotchkis leaf springs, there are members here now (that have purchased recently) that do not. I don't run them because I'm a cheap bastard, not because of their performance. I've just pointed out that others have had issues so people are informed that not everyone likes them, mostly because they lower the car more than most want to lower their cars. Their sway bars are probably the best out there for quality and performance. The Hotchkis sway bars I have on my Challenger are brilliant. They're also the most expensive. For their function I usually recommend the Hellwig bars I run just because of their cost-effectiveness. They do the same job for less. But the Hotchkis stuff is lighter, and possibly a higher quality. They're just not absolutely necessary, and since most people wouldn't notice the difference for their application (ie, primarily street use) I usually recommend the Hellwig bars.



Exactly.

When it all comes down to it, all of the coilover suspensions are un-equal length, double A-arm suspensions. That's your basic suspension design category. Guess what? So is the torsion bar suspension on these cars. Upper control arm, lower control arm, spindle in the middle, ball joints, etc, just like the basic coilover suspension design. The difference is the spring pivot locations and the shape of the spring. Those create some geometry differences (as do the length and design of the control arms), change the center of gravity, and put the components is different locations. But a torsion bar is a spring just like a coil spring is a spring, and a shock is a shock regardless of whether or not is has a spring over the top of it.

Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Suspension design, and even tuning, is all about compromises and application.
Don't come after me because of what I experienced. I haven't told everything I have done in my life. With the new torsion suspension,larger ball joints,larger sway bars,etc, been there and done that also. My experience with all the suspensions I have dealt with I feel the RMS is better then stock. What needs to happen is a comparison with the two. I have done that also and my verdict still stands. RMS for me. Mark
 
With all this anger you would think some of the people spewing all this negativity was having to buy it for the OP?
 
With all this anger you would think some of the people spewing all this negativity was having to buy it for the OP?

Lets start one of them go-fund me pages and buy some poor Dude a nice Alterkation so they too can feel the performance of this incredible suspension system....
 
Don't come after me because of what I experienced. I haven't told everything I have done in my life. With the new torsion suspension,larger ball joints,larger sway bars,etc, been there and done that also. My experience with all the suspensions I have dealt with I feel the RMS is better then stock. What needs to happen is a comparison with the two. I have done that also and my verdict still stands. RMS for me. Mark
Too bad you OPINION can't be backed up with facts.....and the RMS suspension has been tested head to head against a well tuned torsion bar car....and guess what???? And that's not "hate"
 
Post up the test! I have been waiting for years for someone to take a couple of cars with similar power, tires and have the same driver always wondered what the outcome would be.
 
I also wouldn't take the "3-series" as meaning anything. What 3-series? What options? My 330 is basically an engine shy of an M-3 (as I understand it), same suspension, same tires, same brakes. A 325, on the other hand is much less car, all the way around.

And, as for hate. I don't see anybody who prefers to stay with torsion bars spewing anything. If anything, it is the other way around. People who have spent large sums of money seem upset that others don't share their enthusiasm for the aftermarket suspensions. The OP was asking for opinions, we all gave them.
 
I also wouldn't take the "3-series" as meaning anything. What 3-series? What options? My 330 is basically an engine shy of an M-3 (as I understand it), same suspension, same tires, same brakes. A 325, on the other hand is much less car, all the way around.


If you are talking about the "3-series" in the 2012 Tire Racks testing they used BMW 328i sedan that year , they are up to 300hp and run 245 tires. Nice car with similar track performance to a V6 Mustang...just way more expensive to fix.
 
If you want to go fast, you modify a torsion bar suspension, if you you want to blow thousands of dollars, you buy aftermarket, and if you think steering "feel" has anything to do with performance other than band-aiding your lack of driving skill....well...just know the fastest auto x, circle track, and oval track Mopars have torsion bars
Although I really do appreciate the input, that doesn't jive with my car. A few years ago I rebuilt the front end with all new pieces, and the steering was still sloppy. I replaced the PS steering box with a rebuilt unit; steering still sloppy. I am ready for better steering.
 
Although I really do appreciate the input, that doesn't jive with my car. A few years ago I rebuilt the front end with all new pieces, and the steering was still sloppy. I replaced the PS steering box with a rebuilt unit; steering still sloppy. I am ready for better steering.
I have had a similar experience with "rebuilt" steering boxes, if it's done by those mass rebuilders, they definitely suck! A box done by firm feel is money well spent when it comes to steering boxes
 
Lets start one of them go-fund me pages and buy some poor Dude a nice Alterkation so they too can feel the performance of this incredible suspension system....
Start the account and I'll be happy to be the guinea pig!! I even have my Duster on the street and I need a little work in the front suspension (getting bigger TB's and need to get some adjustable strut rods) so in a days time or so I could drop out the front suspension and have the RMS back in it and report back within a day or 2!! :D
 
Start the account and I'll be happy to be the guinea pig!! I even have my Duster on the street and I need a little work in the front suspension (getting bigger TB's and need to get some adjustable strut rods) so in a days time or so I could drop out the front suspension and have the RMS back in it and report back within a day or 2!! :D
I will donate to this worthy cause.... but have no idea how to set up a go find me account
 
I have had a similar experience with "rebuilt" steering boxes, if it's done by those mass rebuilders, they definitely suck! A box done by firm feel is money well spent when it comes to steering boxes
I bought a firm feel P/S box for my 69 Dart, still feels like slop. I wasn't impressed at all.
 
I have one in my 67 Barracuda. It is a great system. I only have 15 inch wheels on mine so I was limited on front tire size. I have driven a 66 with 17 inch wheels on it and the difference is quite impressive.

On the other hand I have a 70 Road runner with firm feel torsion bars and QA 1 control arms and it handles amazing so nothing wrong with a fresh stock system either.
 
I bought a firm feel P/S box for my 69 Dart, still feels like slop. I wasn't impressed at all.
That is why guys are looking for aftermarket setups, the power gearbox are the limitation on the mopars, the firm feel is just that, a firmed up feel, still has that on center sloppy feel to it , Had a "stage 3 box" and that was my impression, better that stock , but that isn't saying much . The only gearbox setup I have personally been behind the wheel that felt decent was the 90's IROC,WS6 etc , they had a firm quick ratio 12.7 box that could pass as a rack and pinion setup. The gearboxes are a thing of the past , all your new cars have a rack and pinion setup in them for a reason, even the 1500 ram trucks are r & pinion.
 
I bet the Borgeson steering boxes feel a lot better than the original mopar power boxes.
 
That is why guys are looking for aftermarket setups, the power gearbox are the limitation on the mopars, the firm feel is just that, a firmed up feel, still has that on center sloppy feel to it , Had a "stage 3 box" and that was my impression, better that stock , but that isn't saying much . The only gearbox setup I have personally been behind the wheel that felt decent was the 90's IROC,WS6 etc , they had a firm quick ratio 12.7 box that could pass as a rack and pinion setup. The gearboxes are a thing of the past , all your new cars have a rack and pinion setup in them for a reason, even the 1500 ram trucks are r & pinion.
Every Firm Feel box that I have installed needed to be adjusted after it's first trip around the block.... one was so bad initially I thought they had sent a core back....and no Firm Feel box was ever as good as the factory box the came on my 88 Diplomat Police car... but they a generally fairly good.
 
I bet the Borgeson steering boxes feel a lot better than the original mopar power boxes.
I am sure they feel better, but nobody is claiming they feel like a rack setup. The HD Ram trucks have the same problem as the old mopars, I have a buddy who has spent a bunch of money to improve the feel of his HD Diesel Ram with the steering box setup. He has put a Red-head steering box , spohn steering box stabilizer , high end ball joints and who knows what else .It feels better, but jump behind a wheel of a 1500 series ram with rack and pinion and there is no comparison. No matter what you do the claim is always just that it feels much better.
 
Feel is subjective tho, it has absolutely nothing to do with cornering ability.
 
I have had a similar experience with "rebuilt" steering boxes, if it's done by those mass rebuilders, they definitely suck! A box done by firm feel is money well spent when it comes to steering boxes
You are probably right. The unit I bought was an A=1 Cardone. I have heard nothing but bat things about them lately.
 
I hear lots of opinions here but none based on facts. If a suspension manufacturer wants to prove superiority over stock style or vice versa lets talk about important specs, roll center, camber curves, rill axis, center of gravity, etc. Not one manufacturer has done this ever even when I was with XV.
My Borgeson steering kits cure the sloppy steering present in stock style boxes. While i agree Mopars in stock form have the worst steering feel of any muscle era car, the correct choice of parts creates an impressive package that us also durable. I do a couple track events per year for yrs. There are only a small handful of people with mopars venturing onto tracks. I have never seen on with RMS. We run a second XV equipped car I built with some mods that is a solid performer. Guys like Hotchkiss are trying to take the guesswork out of purchasing parts. The aftermarket systems get sales based on the one stop shop approach. Bottom line is to read a book about understanding how suspension works before choosing parts.
 
Post up the test! I have been waiting for years for someone to take a couple of cars with similar power, tires and have the same driver always wondered what the outcome would be.

Yup, no such test exists yet. And really, it would have to be the same car. Too many variables otherwise, chassis stiffening, ride height, 40+ years of wear and tear on the chassis (rust, damage, etc). Even with different cars that were the same make and model you could still have more than enough differences beyond the suspension to make an across the board comparison problematic.

There is this article though, for the muscle car of the year shootout hot rod did in 2013. Wracks71's fully RMS equipped Duster and the Hotchkis Taxi both took part, and you can see who had the fastest time. Hint, it was the 1970 4 door Satellite with torsion bars and leaf springs. Now, it's not a true comparison. Different drivers, different cars, different tires, just too many variables for it to be a valid comparison of suspensions. The only thing you can take out of it is that going fully coilover may not make you faster than a torsion bar/leaf spring car. Really though, you can't get past that. Even if you showed that one suspension system was better in certain performance situations it would be no guarantee that any one person/car would be faster with the "better" suspension.

2013 Muscle Car of the Year - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine

I also wouldn't take the "3-series" as meaning anything. What 3-series? What options? My 330 is basically an engine shy of an M-3 (as I understand it), same suspension, same tires, same brakes. A 325, on the other hand is much less car, all the way around.

And, as for hate. I don't see anybody who prefers to stay with torsion bars spewing anything. If anything, it is the other way around. People who have spent large sums of money seem upset that others don't share their enthusiasm for the aftermarket suspensions. The OP was asking for opinions, we all gave them.

If you are talking about the "3-series" in the 2012 Tire Racks testing they used BMW 328i sedan that year , they are up to 300hp and run 245 tires. Nice car with similar track performance to a V6 Mustang...just way more expensive to fix.

Yeah the 328's aren't a slouch. And a second per lap with the same driver and same tires is significant. Not the end-all-be-all though of course. Especially with autoX and road race cars it really depends on the track. You can set up an autoX course where miata's will kill corvette's all day long and not have it even be close, and then turn around and put them on a different course and have the 'vette's make the miata's look silly. Which comes right back to all suspension design and set up is a compromise.

Although I really do appreciate the input, that doesn't jive with my car. A few years ago I rebuilt the front end with all new pieces, and the steering was still sloppy. I replaced the PS steering box with a rebuilt unit; steering still sloppy. I am ready for better steering.

Converting to the RMS just for the steering rack is a pretty big expense. You don't have to buy rebuilt boxes anymore. You can go Borgeson and ditch the original design power box all together. Heck I run a brand new Flaming River manual box, and that was a big improvement.

I hear lots of opinions here but none based on facts. If a suspension manufacturer wants to prove superiority over stock style or vice versa lets talk about important specs, roll center, camber curves, rill axis, center of gravity, etc. Not one manufacturer has done this ever even when I was with XV.
My Borgeson steering kits cure the sloppy steering present in stock style boxes. While i agree Mopars in stock form have the worst steering feel of any muscle era car, the correct choice of parts creates an impressive package that us also durable. I do a couple track events per year for yrs. There are only a small handful of people with mopars venturing onto tracks. I have never seen on with RMS. We run a second XV equipped car I built with some mods that is a solid performer. Guys like Hotchkiss are trying to take the guesswork out of purchasing parts. The aftermarket systems get sales based on the one stop shop approach. Bottom line is to read a book about understanding how suspension works before choosing parts.

Also true. Of course, the problem with comparing roll centers, camber curves, roll axis, CG etc on a torsion bar car is that you can change most of those just by lowering the car an inch with the torsion bar adjusters. Or by running FMJ instead of A-body spindles, although Mopar Muscle did that comparison for roll center, bump steer and camber curves. Swapping Disc-Brake Spindles - Mopar Muscle Magazine. But yeah, at that level of analysis you'd find differences even from one torsion bar suspended car to another, especially if you start throwing adjustable UCA's and strut rods around.
 
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