Dana 60 strength

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savoy

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Just scored a 1969 B body Dana...4.88 gears, sure grip, 11 inch drums. Going under my 68 dart. Rear end just rebuilt. Will it hold up on the street behind a 4 speed, Caltracs and a 572 Crate hemi? Will be running 10 inch period correct "cheater slicks". No track time, just messing around on the street. Opinions please. Thanks in advance.
 
Have one on my savoy....think is really overkill on a moderate horsepower street car. Thanks for the reply.
 
They're big, heavy, and strong. It shouldn't be a problem. With your combination, the rear tires won't be stuck to the pavement long enough to cause enough stress on the Dana.
 
You're funny. First time I've heard a 572 hemi powered four speed Dart a moderate horsepower street car. I know the big guns at my local track in the street car challenge are running mid sevens to low eights in the quarter. My pockets are not deep enough to play with those guys. Sounds like you have a nice car, good luck with it.
 
Those boys play in a different sandbox...I would be a happy camper with a 10 second ride.
 
I suspect you are correct....should be a fun ride!!

A rocket ship if you can get it to hook. You'll be shifting pretty quick and a lot. You may need a Lenco! lol
 
I would like to remind everyone that three things break drivetrain parts in a clutch car.

1. Horse Power
2. Bite
3. Clutch

The big issue is the clutch. You can break ANY rear axle or transmission with too much clutch. You can't slip a clutch, but you can control lockup. And there in lies the trick. I never suggest dual friction or dual disc clutches.

Do your homework and see what the Stock and Super Stock stick guys are doing.


Consider this free advise from someone who has broke it all. Several times. I'm a slow learner.
 
Thanks. To save me the due diligence what do you specifically recommend?
 
Just scored a 1969 B body Dana...4.88 gears, sure grip, 11 inch drums. Going under my 68 dart. Rear end just rebuilt. Will it hold up on the street behind a 4 speed, Caltracs and a 572 Crate hemi? Will be running 10 inch period correct "cheater slicks". No track time, just messing around on the street. Opinions please. Thanks in advance.

Without reading a sentence more in the entire thread your rear is legendary in its strength and the use of good parts makes it that way. Now that it is built right with the best parts, that HEMI even @ a 572 cid is under powered to brake that rear, if built right, it will last a very long time. Your grand kids will thank you for taking the time to build it right.
 
I would like to remind everyone that three things break drivetrain parts in a clutch car.

1. Horse Power
2. Bite
3. Clutch

The big issue is the clutch. You can break ANY rear axle or transmission with too much clutch. You can't slip a clutch, but you can control lockup. And there in lies the trick. I never suggest dual friction or dual disc clutches.

Do your homework and see what the Stock and Super Stock stick guys are doing.


Consider this free advise from someone who has broke it all. Several times. I'm a slow learner.

I'd like to add one more to YR's list. Wheel hop. It's a major problem. Takes out rear ends, u-joints, drive shafts, trannys, clutches, or even all at the same time. Been there, done that.

Russ.
 
Back brace it and run the supportive cover mentioned and it should be bombproof.
 
Thanks guys for the input..will get that cover and call it good until something says ouch and then deal with it. Appreciate the wisdom.
 
I'd like to add one more to YR's list. Wheel hop. It's a major problem. Takes out rear ends, u-joints, drive shafts, trannys, clutches, or even all at the same time. Been there, done that.

Russ.

And mufflers... I did a "burn out" at a stop light one rainy night (only time I could, road was wet) with an 89 s10 I had, started wheel hopping and suddenly the truck got loud! Muffler broke off and fell straight out the bottom!!
 
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