help with battery relocation attempt

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duster731

duster731

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I am going to relocate my battery into the trunk and need help with some wires and what to do with them....

From stock there is one small wire that goes from the mopar regulater box next to the battery and hooks up the the battery, and the main + power cable goes from the bat to the starter with two connections. how dp these wires get connected and where when there is only one + wire going from the trunk to the battery.

I noticed in another thread I could jump from one terminal to the other on the starter if so then what do I do with thhe regulater box wire....... Thanks for your help
 
Ok, There's about 20 ways to do this, just depends on what you want to do.

IF YOU ever intend to show up at a track, specifically an NHRA track, they have some specific rules requirements. Check out this "secret link:"

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1468778#post1468778

Some of the stuff that goes on there is that you have to have 3/8 hold down bolts and no J bolts. You must use either a sealed metal or approved plastic container which is VENTED EXTERNALLY, or you must install a metal firewall behind the back seat.

You must use a disconnect "to stop all power" or some such wordage, the switch MUST be accessable from the outside rear of the car. It must not use a key or removable hardware. It can twist off or push / pull BUT IT MUST PUSH to shut off. AND it must be in the "hot" lead, not the ground

In addition, you need to figure how to kill the alternator output, because if all you do is disconnect the battery, the engine will run on the alternator

I like to recommend the "4 post" disconnects because they provide an easy way break the alternator connection.

What is this "regulator box" you speak of? We need photos, or if you bought a kit, provide a link to the SPECIFIC kit that you bought


This business of "jumpering solenoid terminals" requires that you run a second large wire back for alternator charging I don't care for that method, some do.

Here's how I like it:

Use a 4 post disconnect, has 2 large, to small.

Run one LARGE cable up front either to starter main post or a nice big junction post, and take off from there.

Put the disconnect large posts in series with the battery hot

Ground one small post on the disconnect.

Run the other small post up front, a no14 wire is large enough.

Use a good quality relay up front, or even a "continuous duty" solenoid. Hook no14 from the disconnect to one coil terminal of your up front relay/ solenoid. Hook "switched ignition" to the other coil. Hook fused battery to one large post.

Now the last large post (contacts) becomes your "ignition run" junction. Run this to your ignition system, and the charging system/ regulator/ alternator field.

What that relay will do, when you yank the disconnect, is kill the alternator and allow the engine to die.
 
Wow there's a lot more to it then I thought.

When I was talking about a regulater box I'm not sure of the name of it but its stock on my car and it sits right next to the battery it could be a selonoid but I'm not sure.. I'm not good with electrical at all other then the relocation kit I got from summit racing with the plastic vented box what else would I need other then the 4 post quick disconnect, can the disconnect switch be mounted inside the trunk next to the battery or it has to be outside of the car.

O and I want to visit the track a couple times but its a street car and has a two wire amp
 
5951833-4prongdisconnect1.jpg
 
That's the starter relay on the fender apron.

That moparts thread has some good diagrams. Depending on your charging system there are subtle changes required.

I use the ford relay and S605 relay on my stuff.

Like with most things, there's the minimum standard to pass tech and then there are further safeguards.
 
duster731 said:
5951863-2postfullcutoff.jpg


How about these two will they work
Click to expand...

If you read the NHRA rules, there is some verbage in there that says something about "killing all power functions." The bottom one would leave the alternator wire fromt the trunk to the front of the car to the alternator HOT. In case of a wreck, this could still be a problem, as that wire MUST be fairly large, say no6 or so.

I would guess this on would not pass NHRA

Additionally, if one of your goals is to "be sure" all functions (battery drain) is disconnected, in some cases alternator diodes can have a fair amount of leakage.
 
Man am I confused lol
So is there one that I can do that's easier and more simple or that doesn't require more relays and wires lol
 
The wire he is showing at the alternator is the main large charging lead. However, some of the 4 terminal switches I've seen do not have the current capacity you need on the two smaller posts. That's why I suggest using that switch to activate a relay/ solenoid to disconnect the alternator.

In that diagram, it matters not whether the alternator is "one wire" or not
 
ok thanks everyone ill have to spend some time on the moparts thread and see which one i can understand....
 
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