I'm a little confused about this clutch.

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adriver

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Got it at Advance online by plugging in a 70 B Body with a 440 to find a part number.
Oh, no worries, I'm taking it back to Advance.
IT'S FROM CHINA for crying out loud. I had no idea.
I bought it on low price (134 dollars) and because it was the same design as what came off of the 383 flywheel. ( 143 tooth pictured).

But what's up?
Did I goof and get one for a small block flywheel or the wrong size flywheel.?
The housing is too small. The bolt holes are off on the flywheel.
The clutch measure 11 inches like the old one (10.95?). But the disk is more like 10 inches verses 11 on the old disk..

And can anyone give me a suggestion for one?
I am going to making an order with Brewer's on other things.
They sell three brands.
It's just a motor home 440.
I"m not racing. I'll spend more money if I need to.
I probably could get by with just a new disk from somwhere but I need a throw out bearing anyway so a set makes sense. Do it right the first time, I guess.

I'm going to have the flywheel drilled for a cast crank, like Mrmopartech said. Just haven't had time yet.
 

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I checked on Advance's web site and the only clutch kit listed was a Hays part #31-212 and the price was $299.99. They're real proud of it.
 
Check with the local machine shops. Out here{Ca.),we have a jobber machine shop that relines discs,and restores pressure plates.As a retail parts guy,sold 5 or 6 re comditioning projects. All worked well. When I was a wrench,was taught to rebuild the original product,on older cars.My nickel's worth.
 
Check with the local machine shops. Out here{Ca.),we have a jobber machine shop that relines discs,and restores pressure plates.As a retail parts guy,sold 5 or 6 re comditioning projects. All worked well. When I was a wrench,was taught to rebuild the original product,on older cars.My nickel's worth.

What's the reasoning behind rebuilding the old parts? I can see and understand resurfacing the flywheel, but why not get a new clutch disc and pressure plate?

Please don't take this as me challenging you or disagreeing. I honestly want to know more than I currently do know about these things.

-Jason
 
Sometimes,not availale anymore.As a tech,was taught to rebuild the part off the car,if possible.If you have been to a local wannabee parts place lately,maybe you understand.Buying a part,and failing is way aggrevating and costly.I was taught to have the stuff that bolts up,go back on! Outstandimg question!
 
I don't know what you "did" on the disc, but here's the deal.

Something like a 69 Super Bee/ Roadrunner uses a "real" 11" clutch and disc, like the one in your top photo which does NOT have the notched pressure plate and the 69 has the larger bolt pattern.

70 B bodies used a SPECIAL pressure plate, originally called an 11" but later called 10.9 or 10 7/8 by some catalogues to help define it.
This is because the 70's had a more compact bell (and I guess) a smaller flywheel.

THE 70 PRESSURE PLATE actually has a "stock" 10.5" bolt pattern. That is what you got "new." Again I don't know about the disc you got.

From what I can tell of your photos you must have a 69 11" clutch with the larger, "standard" 11" bolt pattern.

Offhand I'd say the disc is mis--boxed and is either a 10.5 or 10" disc
 
I don't know what you "did" on the disc, but here's the deal.

Something like a 69 Super Bee/ Roadrunner uses a "real" 11" clutch and disc, like the one in your top photo which does NOT have the notched pressure plate and the 69 has the larger bolt pattern.

70 B bodies used a SPECIAL pressure plate, originally called an 11" but later called 10.9 or 10 7/8 by some catalogues to help define it.
This is because the 70's had a more compact bell (and I guess) a smaller flywheel.

THE 70 PRESSURE PLATE actually has a "stock" 10.5" bolt pattern. That is what you got "new." Again I don't know about the disc you got.

From what I can tell of your photos you must have a 69 11" clutch with the larger, "standard" 11" bolt pattern.

Offhand I'd say the disc is mis--boxed and is either a 10.5 or 10" disc

This sounds helpful.
It is a 69 383 and transmission.
Plus I was supposed to get a line up dowl which wasn't in the box.
 
The pressure plate you have is called a scalloped pressure plate. It is used to install a 11 inch disc on a 10.5 flywheel. The kit they sent you is a replacement for a 10.5 flywheel. You can use the disc and bearing with your used 11 inch plate but you will lose some of the gripping surface.

If your in a bind and need to get home . Use the disc and bearing with your old plate. It just won't last as long with wear. That is if your old plate isn't bad. If the plate is bad The new disc will slip also. If it was me I would get the right kit . if you can wait/
 
I checked on Advance's web site and the only clutch kit listed was a Hays part #31-212 and the price was $299.99. They're real proud of it.

I went back and checked.
To tell the truth I'm not sure what I put in to find this clutch.
I have a couple of cars in my list and I can't find this item in a search for any of them.
Some even look like different manufactures now.
 
I went back and checked.
To tell the truth I'm not sure what I put in to find this clutch.
I have a couple of cars in my list and I can't find this item in a search for any of them.
Some even look like different manufactures now.

I used a '70 Charger R/T with a U code 440.
 
That old pressure plate looks fine to me, even the disk doesn't look like it has much wear, I would clean them up a little an run them but that's just the way I am. As stated earlier you have a true 11" pressure plate/clutch, the china crap is the scalloped 10.95" stuff.
 
The pressure plate you have is called a scalloped pressure plate. It is used to install a 11 inch disc on a 10.5 flywheel. The kit they sent you is a replacement for a 10.5 flywheel. You can use the disc and bearing with your used 11 inch plate but you will lose some of the gripping surface.

If your in a bind and need to get home . Use the disc and bearing with your old plate. It just won't last as long with wear. That is if your old plate isn't bad. If the plate is bad The new disc will slip also. If it was me I would get the right kit . if you can wait/

I think you are either mistaken, or maybe looked at the wrong photo. The scalloped 11" and the 10.5 pp use the same bolt pattern. The top photo he posted is the new pp, not the old one

I can NOT find a good photo on the www of one of these.
 
No you are wrong the first photo is a scalloped PP. Scalloped means the area of the bolts is notched so the bolt pattern is that of a 10.5 flywheel but will take a 11 inch disc. This gets you more friction surface on a 10.5 flywheel..

The first PP picture can be used on a on a 10.5 system on a 340 also allowing the use of the 11 inch disc. They also have a 10.5 flywheel the same weight as the 11 flywheel.. I use to use this setup on 70 BB cars to increase inertia on launch as the 69 and back. I still have one that I will be using on my Duster. This extra weight is only good. for launches and shifts.

For street driving the tad lighter flywheel is better. Lighter increases engaged torque on acceleration. Heavier increases torque on the launch and shift. I am going heavy in my Duster build because I like keeping the tires spinning or the wheels up going to 2nd gear. Lighter only gets you a chirp and a jerk. Something I learned from "Ronnie".

A 11 inch PP for a 11 inch flywheel is not notched at the bolts. If you look close at the PP it is a no brainer. to use a 11 disc with a 10.5 plate you need those notches. These were available through DC with the heavy flywheel in the 70's . As I said if you had a 70 on up BB this gave you the inertia of a 69 and back. I had many 4spd cars back in my day and loved the improvement this made. so I started using these on small blocks.
 
No, that is exactly what I said, LOL---the top photo, the first one, IS scalloped, and IS the new setup, not the one out of the car

It is also VERY important that if you use a scalloped pp with an 11" disc that you use the special "small head" pp bolts, as the large head bolts will hit the clutch disc.

Here's a Direct Connection pamphlet that was just posted over at MyMopar which details the use of the scalloped pressure plate. No "real" 11" bolt pattern was used in 70 or later Mopar passenger cars:

From here:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

to here:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=22

This:

[ame]http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/DC_ClutchTrans_Race_Bulletin.pdf[/ame]

NOTICE that in this pamphlet is also listed the bolt circle of both the 10 1/2" and the 11" bolt pattern flywheels. Notice also that when they say "10 1/2 bolt pattern" this does NOT necessarily mean 10 1/2" clutch, but can ALSO mean the scalloped 11" unit.

So once again, it appears that the OP has a "Real" old style 11" bolt pattern flywheel, and could use the new disc he bought temporarily. It should NOT be all that difficult to round up an 11" clutch disc.
 
ARRRGHHHH,
No wonder I'm confused.
But you guys have helped clarify it.
Much appreicated.
So the "scalloped" type is made to accomodate an 11 inch disk with a smaller housing.
And the teminology kept adding to my confusion.
I kept looking for a "scalloped" place on the housing.
What they should have called it is a "notched" plate.
That makes more sense to me, at least.

I am thinking I'll just find an 11 inch disk and a throw out bearing.
I'm searching on line.
Is it strange that the parts houses don't seem to offer just disk?
No trouble finding a whole set.
Someone has one on here has a disk they bought on ebay by mistake.
They say it's 10.9.
That should be the right size?
Maybe that one?
 
Even Mopar called these both 10.9 and 11" so pretty much the same thing. Since you don't need a "smaller" disc because you seem to have the full size "old school" 11" setup, it should not matter. Any rebuilders in your area? How about some of the performance outfits, Jegs, Summit?
 
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