My HDK install thread.

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younggun2.0 said:
please elaborate
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I also have 4 wheel disc but I'm using a oem booster with a later model master for 4 wheel disc thought the pushrod from booster to master was correct length fought and fought the bleeding then I adjusted the rod out problem gone friend had same problem on his 65 C10 after changing the master from old single to dual reservoir
 
UPDATE: Got the front end aligned. First and foremost, the shop I went to does ALLOT of custom work. They work on roundy rounds and are old school car guys. They were very impressed with the front suspension. The exact quote I got was "This thing means business". When I drove it down to the shop I had the lower control arms set up just as they came out of the box. The uppers were set up with the cam bolts in the middle position. They never had to pull the cam bolts. I ended up with 5.5 caster on driver. 5.4 caster on pass. -.5 camber both sides and 1/32 toe in ea. side. I have heard people warn against too much caster with manual steering and big blocks. Not remotely a problem. I have 225/55/17 up front. 9" wide and 26" tall. I can still turn the wheel from dead stop and it's one hand steering as soon as it's movin.
 
younggun2.0 said:
UPDATE: Got the front end aligned. First and foremost, the shop I went to does ALLOT of custom work. They work on roundy rounds and are old school car guys. They were very impressed with the front suspension. The exact quote I got was "This thing means business". When I drove it down to the shop I had the lower control arms set up just as they came out of the box. The uppers were set up with the cam bolts in the middle position. They never had to pull the cam bolts. I ended up with 5.5 caster on driver. 5.4 caster on pass. -.5 camber both sides and 1/32 toe in ea. side. I have heard people warn against too much caster with manual steering and big blocks. Not remotely a problem. I have 225/55/17 up front. 9" wide and 26" tall. I can still turn the wheel from dead stop and it's one hand steering as soon as it's movin.
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Good alignment shops hate hokey garbage, & let you know it! ( did commercial parts sales 2 decades, you just know good shops) The specs sound sweet, that's what happens when you unload 40+ year old OEM parts ,for jig welded parts,set for kill. This isn't a 3/36 granny /6 your pounding on, It needs some technology updates... ( Need it myself,with time...
 
younggun2.0 said:
UPDATE: Got the front end aligned. First and foremost, the shop I went to does ALLOT of custom work. They work on roundy rounds and are old school car guys. They were very impressed with the front suspension. The exact quote I got was "This thing means business". When I drove it down to the shop I had the lower control arms set up just as they came out of the box. The uppers were set up with the cam bolts in the middle position. They never had to pull the cam bolts. I ended up with 5.5 caster on driver. 5.4 caster on pass. -.5 camber both sides and 1/32 toe in ea. side. I have heard people warn against too much caster with manual steering and big blocks. Not remotely a problem. I have 225/55/17 up front. 9" wide and 26" tall. I can still turn the wheel from dead stop and it's one hand steering as soon as it's movin.
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I like the way you explain things....it helps me a ton.

thanks
Denny
 
dodge71demon said:
Did you get your brake problem resolved --- Great workmanship
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Yes I did. I jacked it way up in the rear and bleed. I also took small picture frame hammer and tapped on the lines all way from master to each caliper. Finally got all the air out and stops great
 
My gawd, that is some pretty stuff!!! :prayer:

younggun2.0 said:
I am running the caltrac mono leafs in the -1" set up. I also have sliders on the rear spring eyes notched into the frame.





and my springs are as far up into the frame box as possible and i installed the boxes way up into the frame.
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younggun2.0 said:
ya its like i put a small block in there.
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You did! 383<416. :eek:ops:

My 499 has much better headers (custom made) than the Proparts I bought for the Mega/440-1 540. The Proparts simply did not fit and I am reluctant to dump another $900+ into TTI factory made 440-218 tubes, but probably will. A HDK coil over kit makes more space by dumping the torsion bars and is required per TTi. I have recessed the side bolt on the upper shock mount inner fender hole to help clear the #4 down tube. Oh BTW, trying to fit 2 1'8 step headers in to 3 1/2 collectors.
 
airwoofer said:
You did! 383<416. :eek:ops:

My 499 has much better headers (custom made) than the Proparts I bought for the Mega/440-1 540. The Proparts simply did not fit and I am reluctant to dump another $900+ into TTI factory made 440-218 tubes, but probably will. A HDK coil over kit makes more space by dumping the torsion bars and is required per TTi. I have recessed the side bolt on the upper shock mount inner fender hole to help clear the #4 down tube. Oh BTW, trying to fit 2 1'8 step headers in to 3 1/2 collectors.
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did you make them or a custom company build ?
 

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I link this all the time....just need to get it back to the top
 
Awesome read !!! Great tutorial !!! Guess this is what I have to look forward to with my HDK kit !!! Can't wait !
:prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer: :burnout:
 
HemiDenny said:
I link this all the time....just need to get it back to the top
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Glad it's been of help! Wish I had done the swap earlier in the year. Would have loved to get more miles on it.

One thing I would like to add is that this set up worked very well at the drag strip. I drove the car to the track with my double adjustable coil overs set on the mid firmness levels. Then bent down and turned the knobs to the full lose settings and ran the car.

The car is under powered but the chassis responded with an impressive 60' time of 1.599! And an ET of 11.82 @112.59 mph.

When I was finished for the day I simply reset the adjustment knobs on my coil overs and drove home. Anyone who has driver a drag car on any rough roads with 90/10 front shocks will tell you that it is a horrific experience. The car jars so bad and make all kinds of horrific banging sounds that you cringe.

This setup has made my car a pleasurable cruiser that will glide down the freeway like an old caddy. Then with the twist of a few knobs is ready for auto cross/drag strip duty.
 
Well, my HDK set up should be on its way very shortly !! Check is in the mail, then it's all over except the wait
!!
 
bump to the top.... this thread is a great help to me.
 
Just talked to Denny, mine is shipping out Tuesday!! Thanks for a great tutorial younggun!!
It's going to be a great help!!!
 
Update.
This thread is a tremendous help. Got a lot accomplished last night. Got the old K out and the new one in and the rack installed.
 

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Upper shock mounts, hoops and upper control arms installed. There were some issues with nasty factory welds where the upper shock mount installed. A little grinding and we were back in business.
 

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I hit a snag after that. I put the ride height adjusters in, but for the life of me cant figure out the proper way to put the spindle on? Keep in mind, I'm not to smart on suspension. Not sure the proper sequence for the spacers, washers, etc. Just seems that the spindle doesn't seat on the lower ball joint like it should. I apologize for the crappy quality of the pictures, Iphone cameras suck!!
Any help or tips on getting the spindles on is appreciated.
 

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