TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
No no no say it isn’t so. You can’t do that. Your car is iconic (at least on fabo) in my mind, and painting it would take away a certain aspect of its coolness. Your car is another one of my favorites.
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
- Thread starter 72bluNblu
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JBrian
Well-Known Member
It's pretty hard to add a turbo to a street driven, car show looking A-Body. However, if I were to do it over, I would go with drop-in pistons and rods and about .230"/.234" @ .050 duration (currently maxed with a Frank Racing "SCUUD" camshaft @ .219"/.223") to lift the torque curve up higher into the RPM range. It just makes to much low-end torque for my road race/autocross suspension that offers zero weight transfer and Michelin SS tires. I know drag radials would solve that issue, but I really don't want to have to switch tires. Just something to consider.
I run 255/40-18x9 35mm offset with 285/35-18x9.5 45mm offset with 42/35PSI which stops scrubbing in autocross. I also just added a Hellwig adjustable rear swaybar set in the middle which now reduces body roll and helps rotate the car in corners which is fun!
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Clearly I am a fan, this has been just a great build thread. I love this forum. The creativity and inspiration I get is endless. Not just with @72bluNblu but so many of you other guys have thrown in pictures and ideas. Just an outstanding thread! I look at the craftsmanship some of you have and I just feel like a racing hack! But we thrash ours as well.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
Glad to see another HemiDuster! Drive it, race it. Car shows are full of garage queens and people that have more cash than knowledge. I built my car for me, you should do the same and enjoy it
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Ahhh! A 3G Hemi in an A-body instead of an LA motor... Eww, bad, hiss hiss!.
I'm kidding
I'm not that "other guy" *cough* '68cuda416 *ahem* anyways...
Good job on that build!
This picture is great.....
That LF tire is almost off of the pavement.
That LF tire is almost off of the pavement.
Not highjacking at all, heck your build (and others) may influence the next version of my own build! I've got a modern challenger fuel door, quarter section and filler neck sitting in my storage unit somewhere, waiting for me to do bodywork. Been there a few years now. And I am strongly considering the GIII hemi route, when my shop is done and my major expenditures on it are finished I may have to call up @Johnny Mac over at BluePrint and talk about their ~600hp GIII. Should bolt right up to my T56 (there's a dangerous statement) and I've already rewired the whole car with the American Autowire kit so I have plenty of circuits. Regardless the car will go EFI at some point, dragging my 750 holley double pumper through 3,500 ft of elevation change for my commute, plus the significantly larger temperature swings I get doing that is a little tedious. I mean it's fine but man it would be easier not to have to change the jets every time the season changes.
I've also looked into the EPAS units, I like my 16:1 manual steering but for serious AutoX it might actually slow my ability to crank the wheel around. An EPAS and a 1.5:1 steering quickener to drop down to 12:1 might be the ticket.
My brakes are manual too, I think that's fine especially with the caliper upgrade. I wouldn't be too sure about the 14.25" and 13" rotors being similar for stopping though, that's an 11% increase in stopping power with the larger rotors. What pads are you running with your Viper calipers? I'm still just rocking the OE set that was in the calipers when I bought them, looking to get something matching or similar between the Viper front calipers and the Cobra rears.
I mean, I wouldn't get too excited about it. A quick trip through my photo album says my car has been black and tan for almost 9 years now. Good grief I can't believe its been that long already.
This was just supposed to be a /6 commuter while I worked on replacing half the chassis on my rusty *** Challenger!
DionR
Well-Known Member
DionR
Well-Known Member
Not highjacking at all, heck your build (and others) may influence the next version of my own build! I've got a modern challenger fuel door, quarter section and filler neck sitting in my storage unit somewhere, waiting for me to do bodywork. Been there a few years now. And I am strongly considering the GIII hemi route, when my shop is done and my major expenditures on it are finished I may have to call up @Johnny Mac over at BluePrint and talk about their ~600hp GIII. Should bolt right up to my T56 (there's a dangerous statement) and I've already rewired the whole car with the American Autowire kit so I have plenty of circuits. Regardless the car will go EFI at some point, dragging my 750 holley double pumper through 3,500 ft of elevation change for my commute, plus the significantly larger temperature swings I get doing that is a little tedious. I mean it's fine but man it would be easier not to have to change the jets every time the season changes.
I've also looked into the EPAS units, I like my 16:1 manual steering but for serious AutoX it might actually slow my ability to crank the wheel around. An EPAS and a 1.5:1 steering quickener to drop down to 12:1 might be the ticket.
My brakes are manual too, I think that's fine especially with the caliper upgrade. I wouldn't be too sure about the 14.25" and 13" rotors being similar for stopping though, that's an 11% increase in stopping power with the larger rotors. What pads are you running with your Viper calipers? I'm still just rocking the OE set that was in the calipers when I bought them, looking to get something matching or similar between the Viper front calipers and the Cobra rears.
I mean, I wouldn't get too excited about it. A quick trip through my photo album says my car has been black and tan for almost 9 years now. Good grief I can't believe its been that long already.
This was just supposed to be a /6 commuter while I worked on replacing half the chassis on my rusty *** Challenger!
I remember tripping over your threat about the same time you did the Ralley dash swap. Coming up on 10 years, We should have a party or a toast or something.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
The EFI even on the 340 would seriously tone down any driveability issues and should help the fuel mileage. I got about 2 mpg with the EFI and an additional 2 with the T56 Magnum.
I didn't even get remotely agressive at tuning mine for fuel mileage, I rarely drive for more than 1/2 hr at a time, most roads in the 45-55 mph range with quite a few stops (with sometime between 25 and 35) and I'm basically always getting between 14.8 and 16 mpg. Given that I tuned it myself, I could still be leaving quite a bit on the table, but it stays in range a lot better than my 750 Quick Fuel double pumper did.
I'm hoping next year that I can do either Power Tour (depending on where it starts and ends) or maybe do MoParty (my folks live about 1 hr away from Bowling Green in TN). Have to add A/C first I think though. I'd be fine at least doing the autocross. Would be driving it there and back too...
I look at the viper calipers once and a while, but I'm really unsure if the opposed pistons have any chance of clearing my Torque Thrust M's. It's somewhat difficult to offset the rotor far enough in for the caliper to clear. I still have a lot of stopping power at my disposal with the cobra brakes + hydroboost. No idea what pads are in those either, probably should see if I can still read the edge codes. For the street, I would imagine you'd be best to run a low met of some sort, hopefully with a GG edge code. Sometimes another option is Raybestos Element3 pads that are GG edge code but they are a combination of low met and ceramic, a little less dusty and still quiet. Use them on all the "normal" cars and they are usually a good upgrade.
I find the other side of these brakes kind of interesting, during street driving, I really never get any heat into the rotors, I come back from a drive and they are rarely over 130F where my regular cars are usually in the 210F range after a drive.
I didn't even get remotely agressive at tuning mine for fuel mileage, I rarely drive for more than 1/2 hr at a time, most roads in the 45-55 mph range with quite a few stops (with sometime between 25 and 35) and I'm basically always getting between 14.8 and 16 mpg. Given that I tuned it myself, I could still be leaving quite a bit on the table, but it stays in range a lot better than my 750 Quick Fuel double pumper did.
I'm hoping next year that I can do either Power Tour (depending on where it starts and ends) or maybe do MoParty (my folks live about 1 hr away from Bowling Green in TN). Have to add A/C first I think though. I'd be fine at least doing the autocross. Would be driving it there and back too...
I look at the viper calipers once and a while, but I'm really unsure if the opposed pistons have any chance of clearing my Torque Thrust M's. It's somewhat difficult to offset the rotor far enough in for the caliper to clear. I still have a lot of stopping power at my disposal with the cobra brakes + hydroboost. No idea what pads are in those either, probably should see if I can still read the edge codes. For the street, I would imagine you'd be best to run a low met of some sort, hopefully with a GG edge code. Sometimes another option is Raybestos Element3 pads that are GG edge code but they are a combination of low met and ceramic, a little less dusty and still quiet. Use them on all the "normal" cars and they are usually a good upgrade.
I find the other side of these brakes kind of interesting, during street driving, I really never get any heat into the rotors, I come back from a drive and they are rarely over 130F where my regular cars are usually in the 210F range after a drive.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
Pulling the left front and I'm not even drag racing!
DionR
Well-Known Member
Blu could speak to this better than I can, but pretty sure the rotors Dr. Diff uses in this kit are really pretty deep. It's not the shallow Mustang rotors. I don't remember the difference in offset, but I should have it somewhere. Either way, I doubt you would have an issue.
You can kind of see the difference in this picture Blu posted.
BTW, your car is another that I use as an inspiration. Just an all around great build.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Assuming I have the correct rotors, looks like the Cobra rotor is about 5/8" from the front of the rotor to the wheel mounting surface, while the rotor Dr. Diff uses in his Viper kit is about 1 3/4" from the front to WMS.
I've got an '03 Viper rear caliper here and I think the body is the same as the front but with smaller pistons. My eyeball measurements off that say the caliper is about 2 7/16" tall off the front of the rotor if the caliper is centered over the rotor.
So, with the additional 1 1/8" gained from the deeper rotor, you would need about 1 5/16" off the front (outside?) of your current rotor to clear the Viper caliper.
There is certainly more to it than that, but maybe it would give you something to make a guess with.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys! I appreciate the kind words! Although to be completely honest even my car is pretty heavily based on a few earlier builds, like Steve @autoxcuda 's barracuda, or @72BBSwinger 's "blue blur" Dart. Some of it was definitely a "next step" from my '72 Challenger build, although that one took cues from the Green Brick, and some help from Firm Feel and @DoctorDiff.
That Duster is awesome @JBrian , and it's great to see you getting it out there at the events and kicking ***. One of these years I'm going to have to actually start taking mine to stuff, it always seems like I'm at work for any of the big events though. I may have to paint it eventually too!
Not a lot in the update department, at least not in terms of my car. My new shop building has been the priority lately, although that's getting a lot closer. Had 30 yards of concrete put down a couple weeks ago, with a new 30'x42' building on the way. I did finally get around to putting the DoctorDiff 13" Viper kit on it though, so that was a nice improvement in the stopping department even from the 13" Cobra style kit that was on there before.
The old 13" cobra style kit
View attachment 1716150271
The new rotors. Same overall diameter, but
View attachment 1716150272
Much thicker rotors, lots more meat on these
View attachment 1716150273
The new caliper brackets with the aluminum DoctorDiff hubs
View attachment 1716150274
The MUCH larger GIII Viper calipers
View attachment 1716150275
Time to tap Dr. Diff and get him to work up a rear kit using the rear Viper calipers. That would look sick.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
Here's a guy that been around FABO and Moparts for more than 20 years! Try and make it to MoParty where you can compete in the Grand Champion class. We get to thrash our cars around the autocross which is the same course used for LS Fest and Ford Fest so times can be compared for all makes. It's actually a pretty fast course and a good test of brakes as well. Then the 3S where two cars face off against each other in a short drag sprint, a big 180 and back to a stop box! Then of course the drag strip. All passes as essentially hot laps so it's a real test of your car but fun as hell. You can also take passengers in autocross wearing shorts with windows down. Great fun event, and some of the best Mopar guys you'll ever meet while always willing to help YOU run quicker.
Just don't expect to be part of the Black Duster team!
DionR
Well-Known Member
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
At least I'll be looking better than the Questionable Garage / Jared Pink Duster even with my 20/20 paint job. At least I won't get upset if the paint gets chipped...There was also another Patina Duster but I liked that one better than Jared's, even though what they did was pretty cool.
I did a lot of autocrossing 15-20 years ago when I was in College. Not with this car, but this sticks better than the other stuff I did it with. It doesn't quite have the heroic turn in and steering accuracy of a car with a really good front steer rack. Only complaint, really. None of the aftermarket kits blow me away enough to even consider them.
I did a lot of autocrossing 15-20 years ago when I was in College. Not with this car, but this sticks better than the other stuff I did it with. It doesn't quite have the heroic turn in and steering accuracy of a car with a really good front steer rack. Only complaint, really. None of the aftermarket kits blow me away enough to even consider them.
Honestly I just want the self tuning aspect of the EFI. The altitude and temperature ranges I drive in mean my car is never quite tuned right for where I am at any given moment.
I don’t think you’ll have an issue with those wheels and the Viper calipers. The Mercedes CL500 rotors in that kit have probably 3x the offset from the WMS as the Corvette C5 rotors in the cobra kit. You can see in my earlier picture the viper caliper mount is actually behind the spindle, not on thr bearing side like the cobra caliper mounts. And the rotor goes all the way back to them
Time to tap Dr. Diff and get him to work up a rear kit using the rear Viper calipers. That would look sick.
I’d love it, I was thinking about it when I was looking at trying to match up the front and rear pad compounds. The viper rears use a completely separate brake caliper for a parking brake though, make it a little more complicated.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
Well you'll get that, honestly, I still really recommend running the "LS" coils, even though I know the look isn't for everyone. Been 8 years for me already with 0 problems. Even if a coil dies, you're still going home, and they have built-in ignitors so you can't burn the computer up.
For the calipers, I actually wish I had access to a milling machine and a lathe because the viper calipers seem to be quite spendy and there are MANY fairly priced Porsche, etc calipers available. That and I doubt I can mount them to the rear with the hotchkis UCAs.
Very cool. Great choice on the wheels
Hmm... I see you're using the same headlight setup as I am... Great choice!
Wvbuzzmaster
Well-Known Member
I think it is safe to say that a lot of us use 72blunblu’s Duster build as an inspiration and certainly his learned knowledge has helped me understand some issues I was or was going to have during my Duster build. He has easily saved me over $5000 and weeks or months of frustration just from clarification of information I was struggling to grasp during a build where I had to learn and understand a bunch that I didn’t know, or understand specific to these Dusters. And I did want to Demon swap my Duster, but his build scared me out of it cause that was just one more headache to enter that I did not need. I am certain my Duster only handles as well as it does because 72blunblu is top 5% in suspension, wheel and tire fit, and good skosh selection on the chart for intended use, and happily shares that knowledge to anyone struggling. I have no body roll (normal mountain road driving) and still have yet to add the Hellwig sway bar, and kinda don’t think it needs it. Also, my Duster is at or slightly above factory ride height up front and +2 in the rear on 15” wheels, totally opposite to 72blunblus Duster, but still everything he said matched up, including 26” is max tire up front, what weird knowledge to have to learn the expensive way that was avoided.
Thanks 72blunblu!
JBrian
Well-Known Member
My 255/40-18s are 26" and my 285/35-18s are 25.9"
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