Need truck advice

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rod7515

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Location
Red Lion PA
Been lookin for a nice truck to pull my car and trailer for almost a year now and like most of everyone else here on the forum I want it at a very good price. Of course most of the trucks I look at have door, wheel well or rocker rust and I dont want a rust bucket. SO the search has been long. Today I found what I think is a good very minimal rusted truck and to make it even sweeter its a dodge. 2002 quad cab, automatic with cloth interior but very clean. The only rust I could find was on the pass frt door at the seam and the drivers door just behind the rubber seal at bottom. Neither is bad and I think will clean up with a little Mar-hyde then can be touched up. I was under it and body mounts are spotless, the rear wheel wells still have paint on the inner with no rust. It has been in an accident at some point because the full cap has some over spray on it. Also the right front upper control arm has been replaced at some point and both hood cylinders are gone which would leave me to believe it was hit on that corner. It has fairly new tires all the way around with 11/32. Interior needs a good cleaning but no tears anywhere. Front drivers seat could use some new lower padding but even thats not bad. My main concern is will it pull my car and trailer with its 4.7L. It has 3.92 gears. I am estimating total trailer package to be around 5000 lbs or less. The chart I found on internet says its curb weight is 5200, towing is 7150 lbs. My longest trip would be about 175 miles on highway (mostly flat) but 3-4 times a year about 50 miles to drag strip. I know it wont be loaded with power but its almost to clean to pass on and the price is almost $1500 below KBB. I havent driven it yet since he wasnt there when I looked it over and I am scheduled to drive it this weekend. Here are a few pics of the truck please let me know if you think there are any reasons i should pass on this.
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Thanks Rod
 
Given how Jake's 02 Ram went from blisters to finger sized holes on the rear wheel wells in a matter of 6 months. and how my 05 is doing it now on the right side at a seemingly fast rate, I betcha those flares are hiding the outer wheel well rust issues on the rear. Don't really know anything about the 4.7, but Jake's 360 is still very strong at 205k miles.
 
I betcha those flares are hiding the outer wheel well rust issues on the rear.

I wouldn't be surprised. I have to repair those areas on my '03, and put flares on as well.

With that said, that's a pretty clean truck for the year. I don't know what their asking, but as always look it over good. My '03 has about the same mileage, and is still pretty solid.
 
That truck is 15 years old, That is a long time for a northern truck. You need to inspect the bottom side of that truck. I'd bet it is quite rusty.
 
We are spoiled down south.

My 2000 3500 24v Diesel 3500 Dually SLT I traded in last year was "spotless" and only 140k miles, full heated seat leather quad cab, with upgraded touch screen and NAV, 12k trade in. No spots anywhere at all, and the dealer was happy to say the least!

If only you have the time and patience for resale.
 
ragtopfury, What area of the country are you in? Your reply of 6 months would make anyone nervous! So if I go through with purchasing this do you think I should remove the flares right away and check for rust? SGbarracuda I was underneath the truck and again no rust. Maybe I should run a car fax to see where this truck is from and what information it would reveal.
Rod
 
318willrun, can you tell me the downfalls other then not having power? In the 70's I towed a 70 cuda 440 6 pack with an old ranchero 302. Other than not having an abundance of power I had no complaints. It got me back and forth so I understand lack of power but does the 4.7 have mechanical issues that I should be aware of?
Thanks Rod
 
318willrun, can you tell me the downfalls other then not having power? In the 70's I towed a 70 cuda 440 6 pack with an old ranchero 302. Other than not having an abundance of power I had no complaints. It got me back and forth so I understand lack of power but does the 4.7 have mechanical issues that I should be aware of?
Thanks Rod
yes, the 4.7 had mechanical issues. they are time bombs. Some have had good luck with them, but way way too many took an early exit. I have seen a few with 200,000 + miles on them, but I've seen more blown up at an early life (under 100,000) than make it to 200,000. In fact, a guy at work just lost his 4.7 at 98,000 miles and no, he never abused his truck.
Like I said, I wouldn't buy a 4.7
 
3rd Gen(02-09)Dodge trucks are extremely notorious for bed rust in particular. My 06 only has only 131k miles but at about 100k to 110k I started to notice bubbling under the paint. Over that winter it turned into rust in several 4-5" spots through the paint around both wheel wells. Sanded, did Por15 as best I could, and threw on some fender flares. My 2nd Gen only has 84k but it was a Michigan truck so the entire bottom side, running gear etc was full of rust. My bed, doors, and rockers all look better than my 3rd Gen.
 
.........Just google the timing chain set up and u will see y ppl shy away from the 4.7............I wouldn't buy 1 either....kim...
 
.........Just google the timing chain set up and u will see y ppl shy away from the 4.7............I wouldn't buy 1 either....kim...
I have one exactly like the one in you r pic, w/ a few extras. 4.7 w/ 161,000 miles on it. have pulled a heavy car trailer w/o elec. brakes ( a few yrs, "now have them") hauling a hot tubbed-vega, and then a full size 406 s.block GMC pick up. even took the gmc to Joplin, and brought a barracuda back. it has no rust ,except the outer rear fender wells, I just installed covers on them and forgot about them. A mech. friend of mine said that you should run syn. oil in the 4.7 and the hemi. I have occasionally, but refuse to pay the hi price most of the time. I always tow "out of overdrive", and changed oil-filter every 4000-4500 miles. the truck weighs 5400 pounds! is a little under powered, but, I`ve never had but 3 cars that weren`t. ( 2 hemi`s, and my 505" barracuda, "changed the trans fluid and both filters at 116,000 miles, plugs at 119,000 I have had to put front wheel bearings in it, and an ebay radiator, and a rear pinion seal, that's it. average about 15-15 1/2, will get 19 unloaded , on a flat hiway, w/ no headwind. is very dependable, "still has the factory brakes on it !" and , their not worn out! 11"- 4 wheel discs are the best brakes of anything I`ve ever owned. (70 yrs. old, have had a few, and almost always drive faster than the speed limit !) P.S., a friend at church has a 2002 chevy, he has had 3 transmissions, and cab corners, fenderwells, and rocker rust replaced on his. his does have more mileage than mine tho. a lot of my miles in the early yrs. were hiway too.-------------jfyi , hope it helps. bob
 
Rod - Jakes truck was bought new in white marsh, MD and lived it's life in airville, pa. The wheel well rust was starting when he bought it 2 hrs ago. 6 months later he could put hs fingers thru it. 6 month's after that, he could hold his hand flat and go wrist deep on the right side. Interestingly enough, my 05 is going faster on the right side as well. We are only 45 minutes south of you.......
 
Ragtopfury, really airville Pa! I am 10 miles up the road in Red Lion. Small world. We should get together some time.
Rod
 
I would shop the rust free states.For several years we were buying Nevada trucks and driving them to Pa to resale.We were paying anywhere from $1500 to $8k (diesels) on craigslist. My 88 350 Ram is completely rust free and was a low mileage truck 68k. I paid $500 But Had to replace the engine. I still only have about $4k total in it.Just a thought.

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Ragtopfury, really airville Pa! I am 10 miles up the road in Red Lion. Small world. We should get together some time.
Rod

We found it in Airville where the original owner was. We are 10 min south of Baltimore, but Jake is moving to Abbottstown when his house is finished. It is a small world tho.
 
The rust has more to do with the environment it lives in. My 07 2500 4x4 quad cab has zero rust and I bought it new here in Plant City Fl. The shop I work at we have seen real good service out of 4.7 1500 Rams, I mean well into the 350K range. It depends how well it was taken care of and you NEVER want to run one HOT! If you do you well drop exhaust valve seats and the repair isn't cheap.
 
Thanks guys for all your thoughts. Im going to test drive it tomorrow morning. Ive made a check list up of things to check and Ive already loaded the jack in the car so I can check the ball joints as well. I did a car fax and it said they tie rod ends and ball joints were replaced 13K miles ago. Other than that the car fax was a waste of money so I sent a request for a refund. If everything on my list checks out I think Im going to purchase it. If Im not happy I should be able to resell it next fall and not lose any money. It will be garage kept here so that will mostly keep it out of the elements.
Thanks Rod
 
I think they have oil pump failure too. I think, though, the oil pump might be on the outside??? Man, not for sure on that one. If it is, I'd replace it, because I've known some to be running great and with 30 seconds it's shot. Maybe Mopar corrected this after a certain year?? IDK, just thought it would be worth look'n into
 
I've been asked more than once why a die hard Mopar guy drives a Silverado. RUST! every Dodge I see around here is rusted. I had a '97 Dodge that was in better shape when I traded it than most of these newer ones. that truck looks nice now.....
 
My 4.7 Durango (2002) 3.55 gear struggled a bit with my single axle 3600 pound boat from the stops. Once it was moving it wasn't a problem, even long distances.

My '05 Ram 1500 5.7 has no issue with it. Like everyone says the box rusts in a heartbeat. You can hear it rusting on a quiet night. The box wheel wells only had a small plastic flaps in front of the wheels for crud control so I had to buy full liners for it. Too late for the rust though.
 
I sat here last night and made a check list of the things I wanted to check out because you know how once your there you forget have the stuff you wanted to look at before buying. When I pullled in he had already started the truck so I didnt hear it on cold motor. I told him I wish he hadnt done that and that I would need to hear it start after sitting over night another day. Then I went thru my list. I checked all electrical switches for operation, covered body again. checked AC and found the compressor cycling about every 20 seconds which I think is to often. Then I put jack under frt end and found the left hub bearing to be bad. All other frt end parts seem good. Then to the inside and check AC and heater functions. modes change but not as fast as I would expect. Then once I turned on the heat I smelled antifreeze. Had heat for the first 10 seconds then it started going colder. If I turned it off for 30 seconds then back on again heat but it would go cold in a few seconds. took it out and drove it and it handles great and runs good but it is no power house. The 4wd works good a=with no noises or bangs. He dropped the price to 5K. I told him I would give him a call tomorrow and let him know. Its a nice truck and I think I can do the heater core in 3-5 hours. But the concern is as many have said, not enough power. Could it pull my trailer? Yes I think it can because of the rear 3:92's but will it tow well enough up hills. Then theres the warning that so many of you have said, "The rust will come and it will rust fast". I would have to add a better tow hitch @ $200 plus a controller. So I would be into the truck for al but $6k and then the rust will come. And I struggle with that part. Im thinking I need to find a GM truck with a 5.3 in it. They rust but not as bad or as fast. Good thing Im in no hurry.
Damn, I really wanted that truck but I think I need to pass on it!
Rod
Thanks for everyones comments. Feel free to add any additional thougts.
 
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