Need truck advice

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I would think you could get a real nice '99 - 01 Ram with a 5.9 for 4k. You'd be $$$ ahead, and it would do the job against the works. Throw'n it out there.....
 
318willrun, Im from Pa and every truck I look at the is pre 2005 has been rusted. Keeping my eyes open and Im not in a hurry as car wont be done until some time near end of summer. Let me know if you know of one.
Thanks Rod
 
rod7515 said:
318willrun, Im from Pa and every truck I look at the is pre 2005 has been rusted. Keeping my eyes open and Im not in a hurry as car wont be done until some time near end of summer. Let me know if you know of one.
Thanks Rod
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Well, believe me, the Northwest corner of Illinois is in the rust belt also. We put 1 inch of salt on the road for every 1/2 inch of snow.... LOL
It is a serious challenge getting good, solid, clean vehicles. It might even be better to buy from a southern dry state and pay the 800 to ship
 
I have a 1994 silverado. I have owned since new. It went thru 1 very mild new jersey winter in 94/95 before i moved to Texas with it. Not 1 spot of rust thru on it at all, and its 23 years old. Was my regular transportation year round up until 8 years ago. Now its a home depot materials getter, parts chaser.

My advice, buy a dry climate truck, then get it pumped full of rustproofing before driving it in that salt brine yall use. We junk solid rust free trucks out here because they are mechanically worn out with 350K plus miles on them, bodies are still solid as a rock and rust free.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I have a 1994 silverado. I have owned since new. It went thru 1 very mild new jersey winter in 94/95 before i moved to Texas with it. Not 1 spot of rust thru on it at all, and its 23 years old. Was my regular transportation year round up until 8 years ago. Now its a home depot materials getter, parts chaser.

My advice, buy a dry climate truck, then get it pumped full of rustproofing before driving it in that salt brine yall use. We junk solid rust free trucks out here because they are mechanically worn out with 350K plus miles on them, bodies are still solid as a rock and rust free.
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I wished so bad that it would be that way here. So many times I would find an older Mopar, but just so brown and flaky underneath. That is why my Dusters and Ramcharger came from Arizona. What a difference it makes!!
 
5.3 Chevy? You got to be kidding. I can't tell you how many 5.3 we have had to pull and replace because of no oil pressure or fluctuating OP. They are prone to bad cam bearings. As mentioned, if your buying used. Look down south and shop for a second gen Dodge Ram 5.9 CTD or 5.9 gas 2500.
 
rod7515 said:
I sat here last night and made a check list of the things I wanted to check out because you know how once your there you forget have the stuff you wanted to look at before buying. When I pullled in he had already started the truck so I didnt hear it on cold motor. I told him I wish he hadnt done that and that I would need to hear it start after sitting over night another day. Then I went thru my list. I checked all electrical switches for operation, covered body again. checked AC and found the compressor cycling about every 20 seconds which I think is to often. Then I put jack under frt end and found the left hub bearing to be bad. All other frt end parts seem good. Then to the inside and check AC and heater functions. modes change but not as fast as I would expect. Then once I turned on the heat I smelled antifreeze. Had heat for the first 10 seconds then it started going colder. If I turned it off for 30 seconds then back on again heat but it would go cold in a few seconds. took it out and drove it and it handles great and runs good but it is no power house. The 4wd works good a=with no noises or bangs. He dropped the price to 5K. I told him I would give him a call tomorrow and let him know. Its a nice truck and I think I can do the heater core in 3-5 hours. But the concern is as many have said, not enough power. Could it pull my trailer? Yes I think it can because of the rear 3:92's but will it tow well enough up hills. Then theres the warning that so many of you have said, "The rust will come and it will rust fast". I would have to add a better tow hitch @ $200 plus a controller. So I would be into the truck for al but $6k and then the rust will come. And I struggle with that part. Im thinking I need to find a GM truck with a 5.3 in it. They rust but not as bad or as fast. Good thing Im in no hurry.
Damn, I really wanted that truck but I think I need to pass on it!
Rod
Thanks for everyones comments. Feel free to add any additional thougts.
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I will give a comment run away, if the truck has issues before you buy it, it will still have issues when you trade it off.
5.3 Chevy is a not a good choice either, be ready to put new fuel and brake lines on it, if they have not been changed already.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Wheres the logic there? You said it so he should believe you? What makes a Ford a better choice?
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Just personal opinion. I work on vehicles, professionally. In my opinion the average Ford has better build quality than an equal Chevy or Dodge.

Sorry. I Don't have brand loyalty. I'm loyal to quality.
 
I don't know what era you are talking about. The 6.0 and 6.4 Diesel are the biggest pile since the Corvair. The 5.4 3 valve engines are an abortion. the 98 -2005 Sterling 10.25 and 10.5 rear ends in the 250 and 350's aren't worth the metal they are made of. Yeah I work on them too.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I don't know what era you are talking about. The 6.0 and 6.4 Diesel are the biggest pile since the Corvair. The 5.4 3 valve engines are an abortion. the 98 -2005 Sterling 10.25 and 10.5 rear ends in the 250 and 350's aren't worth the metal they are made of. Yeah I work on them too.
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Yes, Ford has some bad ones too.
 
to each his own but I have had better luck with Dodges. Been driving them for over 50 years and have never been without one. Have had some Fords, GMC, Chevy and Toyotas but now only own 6 Dodges and 1 Mack
 
Well Ive found another Dodge truck to look at. This time its a little older and needs work going into it. I found a one owner 98 reg cab with 180K miles. This truck has been sitting since 2009. According to the owner the truck would stop on him while driving down the road letting him sit. Once cooled down it would restart. He said he lost faith in it but never got it fixed and moved on to another vehicle. He is not someone who can work on his own stuff so he's finally decided to let it go. The interior is in very good shape, the body looks very good from the pics. It has the a towing package, 3:55 gears and is an automatic. I go look at it Thursday night as thats the first night he can be around so I shouldnt have someone beat me there! I told him I would take it as long as there is no frame rust or its worse than the pics he sent me. I will need to do some brake work but thats cheap. I have a spare 318 should it be a major motor issue but Im guessing something electrical. Its about 25 miles from me. Hes asking $1500 and will not move from that. When I ask about seeing it he originally said Saturday afternoon if the guy looking sat morning didnt buy it so thats why I pushed for Wednesday and that really didnt work for him so he said he could switch stuff and meet me Thursday.
Heres what was posted in his add, the truck is covered with mildew so it will need a good bath!
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So what do you think about this one. I think with a few repairs and tire replacement I could have a decent truck. If it doesnt work out I should be able to part it out and at least get my money back out of it.
Rod
 
Good chance it is the pickup assembly in the distributor. Mine would do the same thing and that fixed it. Pretty good looking truck from the pictures
 
Yea, I committed to him about buying it as long as there are no unseen standout issues. I told him I wasnt worried about the engine just the body. Im not into body work and I have my hands full right now with my dart getting the body done so I dont need more! I cant believe anyone would let a truck that nice sit so long. I really wish it would have had the 3:92 rear but for the little bit of towing I will be doing once the truck is running it should work just fine. Now I Just cant wait for Thursday to get here.
Rod
 
I would tell him that you want to start it up cold. Then drive it to be sure on the tranny, and the 4wd. You wouldn't need to drive it but 1/4 mile to know if there is anything major. You won't wear the 318 out. It may not have the torque you hoped for when towing, but it will pull. Just don't try to hold 60 up all the hills.
 
I bought the truck tonight! I didnt even ask for a price reduction. You can tell by talking to him that he doesnt want to get rid of it but he needs cash bad. He also offered me a 68 plymouth valiant sport (He thinks thats the right year, its his dads) with a 340 4 speed. He says its just as nice. Couldnt look at it because he brought the wrong keys for the garage but I will check when I pick the truck up. Anyway the truck was actually better than I was expecting. I thought some of that color on the doors might be rust but it truely does not have any at this time. Bad news is that the brakes are frozen/locked/rusted tight and theres a tree that was cut down about 4 feet in front of the truck so I will need to get a rollback to get it out of there. Heres what I found out about it today: 5.2 with AC/Cruise/PW/PL/PB. AM/FM with CD. Trans has the towing button in shift lever, He said AC did work, no motor issues except the shutting down at times which he claims the dealer says it was fuel pump. He said it does have spark when it does shut off but he had already put a fuel pump in it. Trans is/had worked fine. Converter looked fairly new. Exhaust looks solid. tailgate is very solid including when its opened at the bottom inside and outside. No fluids hanging underneath except at trans pan. It has a trans cooler and the towing hitch on back. It came factory with a 7 pin wiring plug and it looks like the wires are already there for the electric brakes. He thought it may already have a controller built in it? Is that possible from factory in 98? The bed has a liner but the bed canvas cover is rotted and will need removed or replaced. Also the front brush guard will be coming off and I will need to figure out what to do about the 2 holes in the front bumper. The interior is very nice with no dash cracks and no tears in the seats. Cushions are not collasped on the seats. He always had seat covers on them. The motor is covered with all kinds of debree and it wont surprise me if I find some chewed wires from squirrels or chipmuchs but nothing visible just a hut feeling. Trans fluid was a very nice red and motor oil looked fairly cleaned and no gas smell. Well thats what I know at this time. I hope to bring it home this weekend as its going to need a bath really bad. Not sure what I should use to wash it after I take the power washer to it. I think maybe dish washing soap because of the mildew thats on it.
Rod
 
good deal, maybe something easy to get it running. If you have to remove fuel pump it is easier to jack bed up and block it high enough for pump to come out. I would leave brush guard on myself since it is already on. Don't know if I would buy one but it will protect the front. Pressure washing it will clean it up and look like a new one
 
I'll need to remove bed anyway to get in there to clean the mildew between cab and bed.
Rod
 
Congrats! Sounds like you'll enjoy getting it on the road, and the valiant thing might turn out for ya. :)
 
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