I would think you could get a real nice '99 - 01 Ram with a 5.9 for 4k. You'd be $$$ ahead, and it would do the job against the works. Throw'n it out there.....
Well, believe me, the Northwest corner of Illinois is in the rust belt also. We put 1 inch of salt on the road for every 1/2 inch of snow.... LOL318willrun, Im from Pa and every truck I look at the is pre 2005 has been rusted. Keeping my eyes open and Im not in a hurry as car wont be done until some time near end of summer. Let me know if you know of one.
Thanks Rod
I wished so bad that it would be that way here. So many times I would find an older Mopar, but just so brown and flaky underneath. That is why my Dusters and Ramcharger came from Arizona. What a difference it makes!!I have a 1994 silverado. I have owned since new. It went thru 1 very mild new jersey winter in 94/95 before i moved to Texas with it. Not 1 spot of rust thru on it at all, and its 23 years old. Was my regular transportation year round up until 8 years ago. Now its a home depot materials getter, parts chaser.
My advice, buy a dry climate truck, then get it pumped full of rustproofing before driving it in that salt brine yall use. We junk solid rust free trucks out here because they are mechanically worn out with 350K plus miles on them, bodies are still solid as a rock and rust free.
I sat here last night and made a check list of the things I wanted to check out because you know how once your there you forget have the stuff you wanted to look at before buying. When I pullled in he had already started the truck so I didnt hear it on cold motor. I told him I wish he hadnt done that and that I would need to hear it start after sitting over night another day. Then I went thru my list. I checked all electrical switches for operation, covered body again. checked AC and found the compressor cycling about every 20 seconds which I think is to often. Then I put jack under frt end and found the left hub bearing to be bad. All other frt end parts seem good. Then to the inside and check AC and heater functions. modes change but not as fast as I would expect. Then once I turned on the heat I smelled antifreeze. Had heat for the first 10 seconds then it started going colder. If I turned it off for 30 seconds then back on again heat but it would go cold in a few seconds. took it out and drove it and it handles great and runs good but it is no power house. The 4wd works good a=with no noises or bangs. He dropped the price to 5K. I told him I would give him a call tomorrow and let him know. Its a nice truck and I think I can do the heater core in 3-5 hours. But the concern is as many have said, not enough power. Could it pull my trailer? Yes I think it can because of the rear 3:92's but will it tow well enough up hills. Then theres the warning that so many of you have said, "The rust will come and it will rust fast". I would have to add a better tow hitch @ $200 plus a controller. So I would be into the truck for al but $6k and then the rust will come. And I struggle with that part. Im thinking I need to find a GM truck with a 5.3 in it. They rust but not as bad or as fast. Good thing Im in no hurry.
Damn, I really wanted that truck but I think I need to pass on it!
Rod
Thanks for everyones comments. Feel free to add any additional thougts.
Wheres the logic there? You said it so he should believe you? What makes a Ford a better choice?Of the big 3 trucks, a Dodge would be last on my list. Get a Ford.
Wheres the logic there? You said it so he should believe you? What makes a Ford a better choice?
I don't know what era you are talking about. The 6.0 and 6.4 Diesel are the biggest pile since the Corvair. The 5.4 3 valve engines are an abortion. the 98 -2005 Sterling 10.25 and 10.5 rear ends in the 250 and 350's aren't worth the metal they are made of. Yeah I work on them too.
Feel free to add any additional thougts.