Rear-end seal?

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7duster4

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I have a leak coming from my rear-end. My first thought was the cover, but everything is dry. Seems to be coming up around the u-joint/yoke area. It's a minor leak but im worried it will worsen. I had new gears installed over the summer with a new installation kit (seals, bearings, etc) included. I am thinking maybe he rushed the process. Becuase it never leaked before. From what I understand there is a seal of some sort up in that area. So my question is with the driveshaft and u-joint, etc, off can the seal be replaced? It's a 8 1/4 out of my '74 Duster. I hope it's an easy fix. Thats all I can think of where the leak is coming from. Has anyone here had a similar problem. All info is appreciated.

Thanks
 
The only hard part about it is getting the nut loose so you can remove the pinion yoke. I've done it with a breaker bar and a length of cheater pipe with the parking brake set. Once the yoke is off it is just a matter of pulling the old seal out and driving in a new one. Takes maybe 45 minutes with hand tools, half that with air. Sometimes they will leak if the pinion yoke has a groove worn in it where the seal rides. If that's the way yours is, plan on a new yoke.
 
Grump hit the nail on the head. The nut's a bugger to get off and on cause it's torqued to 240 ft. lbs. and a groove in the yoke is probably what is causing the leak. I rebuild a 8-3/4 for my car last summer and it wasn't leaking before I rebuilt it but it does now and I'm sure I got the seal in right. I remember the yoke having a little groove where the seal rode but thought since it didn't leak before it shouldn't with a new seal. WRONG!!
 
they make a speedy sleeve just like the one for the crank A thin chrome sleeve that presses over the end
 
Where can you get one of those "speedy sleeves"? I think I need one also.
 
any part store that sells the seal should be able to get it. also get some red lock tight and put that on the yoke before putting on the speedie sleve it will help in the installation and will hep fill the grove after the sleve is installed over it and it wont leak thru sleve where it meets the yoke please consult a book on pinion nut tightness. some have a rolling torque to set the pre load on pinion bearing witch is crusual and get a new crush sleve do not use the old one it has alredy been crushed so it is junk
 
The pinion bearings are taper roller type like wheel bearings commonly called timken bearings. They get one preload setting for new and a different Lighter preload for reused.
To keep it simple at pinion seal replacement just scar the nut and thread with a tiny drill bit. Tighten the nut to the exact same position and you've in effect set the used bearing preload.
 
check the axle vent also. if it is clogged up then pressure can build causeing it to leak from the pinion.....
 
7demon2 said:
check the axle vent also. if it is clogged up then pressure can build causeing it to leak from the pinion.....
Click to expand...


Where is the axel vent located on an 8 1/4? I have seen a diagram showing an 8 3/4 with it on the top of the axel/drivers side. Is this the same for the 8 1/4?

Thanks
 
man to be totally honest i am not sure. i would assume it would have to be along the top just like the 8 3/4 axel. maybe someone can help with that as i don't even have a car with an 8 1/4 to look at to find it....
 
Check the rear end fill plug,mine appeared to be leaking from the front,turned out to be the fill plug,new plug no leak.Good Luck
 
I'm not positive about the location of the vent on an 8-1/4 but it may be like the 8-3/4 where it's a part of the mounting bolt that retains the brake distribution block. Sometimes they get so gunked up you can't hardly tell there's a vent there.
 
Thanks everyone. Next time im under there i'll definetly take a closer look and check out the vent. Im sure it's covered in all kinds of gunk.
 
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