Red Headed Stepchild-75 Swinger LSX Swap

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Those maven mounts are kick ***!
I cant wait for fab to get done. I'm stoked to get all the heavy steel cold side out and aluminum up there to save the weight for one, and get rid of all the rubber boots and switching over to the quick release bands, and solid vbands all around. Everything being done this winter will bring dividends moving forward on the car and helping solidify it, eliminate weakpoints and things that have been holding her back over the years and get it ready for drag n drive events that i want to do eventually. I'm super excited about these new turbos and circle D bolt together converter.
 
We'll I bit the bullet today. All bets are of with her. She's been back a short period but cost me a lot of money already between the turbos, converter, maven mounts and new intercooler piping and quick release vbands.

Now added this to these to the pile. Finally matching 17" rc comp torx wheels for the front. No more poverty spikes up there. Once fab is done, ill see if I can afford to go ahead and get the rear sent off to be beadlocked before spring.

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Got the old jegs wheels and tires off. New wheels will be here tomorrow for the front, and new mickey thompson 26x4x17 tires will be here and should hopefully have them mounted snd balanced and on Friday too. Got hiking to do Saturday. Got all the intercooler piping in the mail too finally. So the only thing fab needs is maybe a little stainless if they can't slavage enough from the old piping. Until he's ready we Olay the waiting game to get into the fab shop. Also got the flag back on the hood since it had been removed. Keeping track of weight savings as well overcast year too. See what it adds up to ET wise.

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Got some good news. The circle d converter has shipped.

I also finally weighed the rear wheel setups and saved 40lbs overall switching to the rc comp rear wheels over the solid steel ones from before.

Also weighed all the stainless steel intercooler piping snd it was 38lbs overall. I'll post results when I weigh the aluminum version once it's remade.

Total so far is 100lbs off the car with just the rear wheels, turbos, and front wheels.

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More goodies coming in. This time the 4 to 3 reducers with a tight enough transition, and quick release clamps, for redoing the cold side piping.

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You gotta be careful with transition length. I read some testing years ago by Corky Bell that said something to the effect of double the diameter of the larger pipe in length is the minimum. So for a 4” to 3” transition you’d want to use 8” of length minimum to do it or it’s a power looser. I hope I’m remembering that correctly. I’ll see if I can find where he said and tested it.
 
You gotta be careful with transition length. I read some testing years ago by Corky Bell that said something to the effect of double the diameter of the larger pipe in length is the minimum. So for a 4” to 3” transition you’d want to use 8” of length minimum to do it or it’s a power looser. I hope I’m remembering that correctly. I’ll see if I can find where he said and tested it.
I definitely don't have 8 inches to do the transition at any point, especially at the throttle body/intercooler. So I'll have to take the hit where applicable. But these newer turbos make more power and make it earlier than the old setup, so I should be fine with the hit.
 
So I was thinking it's winter almost. Wonder what he will do next! Nice love the upgrades makes me more fearless to do things when I see everyone else changing things.
 
So I was thinking it's winter almost. Wonder what he will do next! Nice love the upgrades makes me more fearless to do things when I see everyone else changing things.
You don't have to be afraid of anything. Have a goal, do some research, make a plan and get busy. Don't be afraid to reach out to people for information(ones who know what they're talking about). I try to learn as much as i can from people who are smarter than me(which is alot of people i have to learn from).
 
As per the usual, changing things up and needing to take parts that were never meant to go together and figuring out a way to make them work.

The car kept throwing belts with the sloppy/loose new factory belt tensioner, so I ordered up a ICT billet manual tensioner. However it was never meant to be utilized with a lower driver side alternator, or with a motor plate, or with an electric water pump. So I'll be engineering a way to make it keep constant tension as well as a tight enough wrap to keep the alternator output sufficient. Obviously can't route the way it was intended to before.

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As per the usual, changing things up and needing to take parts that were never meant to go together and figuring out a way to make them work.

The car kept throwing belts with the sloppy/loose new factory belt tensioner, so I ordered up a ICT billet manual tensioner. However it was never meant to be utilized with a lower driver side alternator, or with a motor plate, or with an electric water pump. So I'll be engineering a way to make it keep constant tension as well as a tight enough wrap to keep the alternator output sufficient. Obviously can't route the way it was intended to before.

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Shorter belt?
 
Well luckily I hold onto stuff and and older bracket was able to work with a different sized belt with some trimming on some spacers. Tada. Problem solved. May try and get to the converter this weekend.

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unless the belt is very tight i'd be surprised if it didn't slip on the alternator. there looks to be less than 1/4 of the pulley in contact with the belt. an extra idler above the alternator to pull the belt in would help. that or move the tensioner over toward the pass' side.
neil.
 
unless the belt is very tight i'd be surprised if it didn't slip on the alternator. there looks to be less than 1/4 of the pulley in contact with the belt. an extra idler above the alternator to pull the belt in would help. that or move the tensioner over toward the pass' side.
neil.
I routed it wrong again. That was my fault. Long day yesterday
 
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