Stop in for a cup of coffee

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halifaxhops said:
They also have stuff not listed you contact them. They are my sheetmetal place, think @PosiRon ordered stuff from them also.
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They do have other locations. So, probably diff selection at others too that they can transfer between stores or wait from their supplier
 
halifaxhops said:
Marilyn says Hi guys!
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I know really getting tired of bondo though, would really like to find a bolt on, will have to do something with the mounting points also.
 
halifaxhops said:
I know really getting tired of bondo though, would really like to find a bolt on, will have to do something with the mounting points also.
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Fenders with no rust are going for gold plated pricing. If you looked at the link I posted to my build... I got a donor fender ($20 I think) and pieced in what I needed.
 
ScampMike said:
is fiberglass an option?
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It is the area that has the nut plates welded to it so I say no, would be pretty easy, I have a nutsert tool that goes to 3/8. Hopefully over the winter when I pull the motor again to do the engine bay and re paint it again with the fender skirts.
 
Dave at classic auto is keeping an eye out for me for one, he found one that that area was good but the bottom was trash.
 
halifaxhops said:
It is the area that has the nut plates welded to it so I say no, would be pretty easy, I have a nutsert tool that goes to 3/8. Hopefully over the winter when I pull the motor again to do the engine bay and re paint it again with the fender skirts.
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Where are there any welded on fender? I thought they were all the slip on U-nuts. And most go on the car and bolt through the fender...
 
The square stock that is taped then held in a flange is the best I can describe it. Under it is no big deal just want wher the visable stuff is to look good, that hood will be getting a lot of attention for sure.
 
halifaxhops said:
Dave at classic auto is keeping an eye out for me for one, he found one that that area was good but the bottom was trash.
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Typical. That's what I was saying above. A near perfect one will probablt run a few bills.
halifaxhops said:
Know what I did not even look at Klingers.
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Probably something useable at least to do what I suggested for repair. Even there, would not count on a 'good' one. Patching the lower area in front of door, or even changing the support section on back inside that includes the lower bolt flanges is not too difficult. Forgot there is a captive nut up in that piece...
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the thing with a fiberglass one is there is no inner support and all you have to do is make a couple of holes in the lower flange to go over the captive bolts/nuts
 
Did that to the fender already it is the top of it under the hood by the hinge where they all rot out.
 
dartnabout said:
why?
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zkx14 said:
That's a lot of work...
I hand bent every other patch on mine, but bought front pans.
Why 'ordered'? No metal suppliers near you? Or getting delivered?
I bought a sheet, but wasn't using any really big sections, so had them cut to fit in the wagon.
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halifaxhops said:
Chris lookey here.
Products
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zkx14 said:
Ouch! 450 for full floor. 360 if you buy it in halves. Which would be much easier to work with.
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halifaxhops said:
Compare the price usually much better.
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dartnabout said:
This is why I asked why
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The reason I'm making my own floor pan is because I'd have to modify the factory style replacement pan by almost 60 percent to fit the tr6060 and the custom buckets. So why spend 450-600 bucks plus shipping for something in going to completely cut up anyway? It's the same with the trunk floor. I have to modify so much to fit my design , it's gonna Be more efficient to simply make my own.
 
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