I built a 360 engine and got it some rpm performer edelbrock heads and a 800 thunder series carb, along with a super victor jr intake. I was told that the intake would actually lose the motor power because it was to big, that I should of went with a air gap intake. Is the loss of power a huge difference ? Or will it still push good power with it until I have the time and money to buy the different intake ?
Super victor jr intake 2 much 4 street car ?
- Thread starter Sevenfoe
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Interested in an RPM intake?
skrews
Well-Known Member
Super Victor is a great intake. If you're making 600+ HP. Street car, RPM Air Gap all the way.
frosty_the_punk
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I would say no, not a *huge* difference to the power output.
But a dual plane such as the Performer RPM or Air Gap will provide noticeably better street manners and possibly a slight performance advantage.
But a dual plane such as the Performer RPM or Air Gap will provide noticeably better street manners and possibly a slight performance advantage.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticle...mall_block_performance_test_baseline_1_2.html
Check that out for what you think it might act like. The SV absolutely got killed in the lower areas of the test range. It didn't even do as well as the Air Gap up top. Look at test 1 and 5 for a decent comparison.
Check that out for what you think it might act like. The SV absolutely got killed in the lower areas of the test range. It didn't even do as well as the Air Gap up top. Look at test 1 and 5 for a decent comparison.
stick or auto
if it's a stick leave it
not a fan of the air gap over rated
i am a fan of single plane
how about reg victor jr
if it's a stick leave it
not a fan of the air gap over rated
i am a fan of single plane
how about reg victor jr
Well when we built the motor it was built to push around 425 horses, don't know to much about the sPecs but the shop put some kb pistons and a isky racing cam, the fact that the motor is already built and ready to go in makes me not want to take the intake off and put another on. Which is why I ask, if the super victor intake is to much and will cause me to lose power how much power exactly are we talking about ? If it's about 10 to 15 horse power loss Im not really concerned but if it's more than that then I will change it. I'm not building a race car, just want a fast street car to show off down the boulevard
frosty_the_punk
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I would guess that it's only about 10-15 horsepower disadvantage from idle up to 4000rpm. After that it would be more like 3-5.
It would be best if you got the shop to write down the specs to the engine...pistons ..rings..bearings...camshaft...get a print out of the balancing...with piston weights...rod weights..etc...and see what the bobweight on the crank is so in the future you will not be lost ...
what carb ...what distributor....would be alot easier to answer questions with out having to guess which isky racing cam you got....
what carb ...what distributor....would be alot easier to answer questions with out having to guess which isky racing cam you got....
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
Listen to the majority, stay away from the Super Victor. FYI There is no "jr." small block Mopar intake. It's either Victor or new Super Victor. Not only is the rpm range too high, it will be harder to tune correctly and it doesn't have a heat crossover which may cause more issues. It also likes a LOT of gear and converter. What gear and converter were you considering?
Air Gap and Air Gap RPM are the same intake internally, but it would be much more street friendly. Weiand Stealth and LD340 are also good dual plane intakes.
I use a Holley Strip Dominator on my race only 360, which appears to have a smaller plenum than the Edelbrock single planes. My converter flashes to over 5,000 and rarely drops below that on shifts and I found that's why it worked a little better than a dual plane for my combo.
The intake (or any other engine part) needs to provide best HP and torque #'s in the "area under the curve" (on a dyno sheet) within the engine's usual operating range. Everything needs to be "matched" for best results.
Air Gap and Air Gap RPM are the same intake internally, but it would be much more street friendly. Weiand Stealth and LD340 are also good dual plane intakes.
I use a Holley Strip Dominator on my race only 360, which appears to have a smaller plenum than the Edelbrock single planes. My converter flashes to over 5,000 and rarely drops below that on shifts and I found that's why it worked a little better than a dual plane for my combo.
The intake (or any other engine part) needs to provide best HP and torque #'s in the "area under the curve" (on a dyno sheet) within the engine's usual operating range. Everything needs to be "matched" for best results.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
What "aar" said.^^^^^^^^^. I've been watching this thread and my 2 cents is that your asking about power and you need to worry about torque. Did you see the tests "crackedback" spoke of? That engine had 50 lbs. ft. less @ 3600 r's. That's huge on a street engine and your's is only a 360. No matter how many blasts you think your gonna make on the street, you'll still spend 90% of the time between idle and 3000 r's. I've never had my hands on a Mopar SV, but if the volume is anything like a brand "C" and you have large cam duration, it could turn into a carb tuning nightmare to become comfortable on the street because of lack of signal. I would never say never because some combos will always prove me wrong, but i think you need to consider the dual plane, sooner rather then later.
P.S. Sorry Locomotion, didn't mean to overlook you. I started typing before you posted and got pulled away before i sent mine. That's good stuff also :icon_smi:.
Good article. Clearly this write up show a very nice and stout street engine. Test 5 shows the Victor intake as (Clearly) the wrong intake.
Now, for all you out there that have some doubt or wonderment to this all and read the below post from Locomotion, pay attention! These words come from a guy who knows!
A true been there and done that fella. And now that I think about it, he's still there doing it.
It is better to error in caution by going smaller with engine parts. When it comes to the engine, people will go for overkill without thought and kill a combo. The companies will market there products in RPM ranges that should be matched to other parts designed for that RPM range. The problem is it is wide and varied so much with people skinning the cat in more ways than thought of and beyond the bounds of what the parts were meant for.
Keep it simple! This is not rocket science. Though it can be confusing. Just take a breath and walk away. Then remember this thread and the 2 golden rules.
1. The K.I.S.S. method. Keep It Silly Simple
2. Go smaller than bigger. The error on the side of caution is easier to fix than a overboard compression ratio or a cam way to huge for reality.
moper
Well-Known Member
sorry meant the victor 340
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
all good advice posted. you have a great manifold just not for your needs . down how much depends on a bunch of other factors
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
In the right circles the Victor and Super Victor are highly desirable, a quick fix may be to swap for what you want.
Put it up for trade here at FABO in the classifies section.
Hey, whatever, I figure a straight up trade with someone may be a good thing.
How much do you think you'll get in its sale vs. the cost of a new RPM?
Good luck in your endeavors.
How much do you think you'll get in its sale vs. the cost of a new RPM?
Good luck in your endeavors.
I just left team c and they want 280 for a damn rpm air gap, that's almost what I paid for the super victor. Ima shop around jegs and summit see if I can get it cheaper, and I want 250 for my super victor it's brand new
269.00 at Summit, free shipping.
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