Doug Herbert solid cam?

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Marcelo Dart BR

Marcelo Dart BR

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I'm thinking of replacing the MP 528 cam on my 318 with this one from Doug Herbert:

RPM Range: 2500-6600
Advertised Duration: 285/290
Duration @ .050: 230/235
Lift: .480/.495
Lobe Center:106c
Lash: .012-.012

The 528 is:
RPM Range: 2800-7000
Advertised Duration: 284/284
Duration @ .050: 241/241
Lift: .528/.528
Lobe Center:112
Lash: .028-.032


I want a little more low end and I don't really like the 112 lsa of the Mopar cam. It has a little less lift so I could mill the heads a little more without hitting the pistons. Is it worth to swap the cams?
 
It's smaller but it may do a better job of making power in your combo. I think it will do fine and I'd call it an improvement.
 
The 528 is really tame in my car, but it has not much torque below 3000 rpm. Since I drive it just on the street and maybe twice a year on the strip I think it would be more fun with some more torque. I always shift before 6500 also.
 
I think the split pattern would help in your setup, plus the Herbert grind seems to be a faster rate of lift, giving more area under the curve and a better overall profile.
 
i sure hope your not running it at there lash... thing must be freaking noisy...
 
Even though it's hydraulic, that's a damn good grind. I am gonna run it in my 318 LA motor with magnum heads. With the 1.6 rockers, you get .528 lift on the exhaust side. Plus with the 106 LSA it will sound shag nasty in a 318...which is what I was lookin for. ;)
 
Marcelo Dart BR said:
Strokerscamp, here it is:

http://www.dougherbert.com/sb-chrysler-solid-flat-tappet-cam-lifters-9764.html

Actually it was listed with the chevy stuff, looks like a solid version of the cam you have. Do you have any videos of the motor running?
Click to expand...

Cool. No, I don't have it built yet. I am gettin pretty anxious. lol Supposed to drop off the pistons and rods today to get them mashed on....backwards of course. lol. I would call them though and make DAMN SURE they sell that in a solid. It's kinda strange they offer the exact same grind in both.
 
If you look at the two part numbers, they are the same except the solid has an "S" after the number....that would seem to indicate they make both. I would prefer the hydraulic unless you're racing it because the hydraulic will be about 10* "bigger" than the solid, all things equal. It'll sound much nastier. lol
 
Marcelo Dart BR said:
Yes I am. It's noisy but the exhaust is way louder...:smile:

Do you think I could run it tighter?
Click to expand...

ive run 3 of those .528 cams, they work better at the .028/
032 lash thats called for.

i like the 1st solid herbert cam u listed, it will make a lil more below and basically be more peakier in power. but really u should be flow testint the heads you just modified in order to now see what exh ratio and general flow curve u now have.

if going herbert....call them and tell them what u have combo wise,trans,gears,convertor ..to start...then tell them what cam ur running now and finally ..what you would like to see for power improvement & in what rpm u want it.

lunati also has some good solid grinds

really though.....if you just stab that .528 in about 6-10* advanced....
it will snap ur neck when stomp on it, and effectively lower the operating range/shift the power down lower in rpms...
advancing also makes up for a stingy int port...fwiw.
 
I think it just needs a 3,000--3,500 stall converter if its an auto and or 4,10 gears

These little motors do make the best power from 3,000 up. You don't make torque but let the gears make the torque

This is why those TA 340's had 3.55 at a min, gears from the factory with 3.91's--4.10 gears being the best comprise. It really needs 4.56 gears but for the street I go with 3.91 AND a high stall converter if its an auto trans

Leave the cam alone, let that motor rev. More compression by milling the cylinder heads and a thinner head gasket would also help. Don't you have like 98 octane fuel down there ?
 
Ride a muti speed bicycle, at slow speeds have it in a higher gear and try to pedal the bike, its tough to pedal, now shift to a lower gear, now you can pedal fast and move along.ym

Be crazy to go to the gym and workout your legs to get stronger just to pedal your bicycle at low speeds, why bikes have many gears to pick from.

You car is the same way, nothing wrong with the engine, it needs more gear

If you go trying to make more power down low you are going to lose power at higher rpms
 
Thanks for the advice guys. My car has a 3.91 and 4 speed trans. When I built the engine it had a 3.15 and it was really "dead" above 3000 rpm. It's way better with the 3.91.

I have about 9.8/1 compression and I'm running 89 octane without detonation, so I think the cam bleeds a lot of cyl pressure. I can find 95 octane gas but the car runs the same and the 95 is more expensive. My new valves are nailhead so it will kill some CCs.

I think I really didn't liked the 528 cam, it runs like a big cam but sound stockish... I know this is silly but for me it's a part of the "cool factor". I've been looking to a LOT of grinds, I wanted a solid below [email protected] and a tighter lsa. I found some nice ones from Lunati and Engle but they have too much lift, or duration, or both.
 
Marcelo Dart BR said:
Thanks for the advice guys. My car has a 3.91 and 4 speed trans. When I built the engine it had a 3.15 and it was really "dead" above 3000 rpm. It's way better with the 3.91.

I have about 9.8/1 compression and I'm running 89 octane without detonation, so I think the cam bleeds a lot of cyl pressure. I can find 95 octane gas but the car runs the same and the 95 is more expensive. My new valves are nailhead so it will kill some CCs.

I think I really didn't liked the 528 cam, it runs like a big cam but sound stockish... I know this is silly but for me it's a part of the "cool factor". I've been looking to a LOT of grinds, I wanted a solid below [email protected] and a tighter lsa. I found some nice ones from Lunati and Engle but they have too much lift, or duration, or both.
Click to expand...

you can never have to much lift on a street motor...
 
I'm affraid of hitting the pistons since I'll be running bigger valves and milled heads. I don't know how much lift I can run, and most solid cams, at least those I liked were above .540".
 
Marcelo Dart BR said:
I'm affraid of hitting the pistons since I'll be running bigger valves and milled heads. I don't know how much lift I can run, and most solid cams, at least those I liked were above .540".
Click to expand...

at what duration though?? no reason to give up drive ability and low end if your not racing it...
 
Marcelo Dart BR said:
I'm affraid of hitting the pistons since I'll be running bigger valves and milled heads. I don't know how much lift I can run, and most solid cams, at least those I liked were above .540".
Click to expand...

You wont hit pistons when the .500-.550 lift cam has a lash of .018-.028 and the push rod angle is stealing another .010 or so.

narrower lsa...usually narrower power band, or less underneath it.

is the cam even degree'd?

try it at 102* & use a dual plane..lol..it'll snap yer neck...though it will get about 8 mpg as well.

similar...
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1537&gid=283

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1539&gid=284

what do the heads flow int and exh?
 
Do you mean the cams I liked? There's a lunati that is 235/243 and .526/.546... the smallest from Hughes sounds nice but it has even more lift...

I am racing it, but not at the track...lol I drive it several times a week in the traffic also, so I think a little less duration is a good thing.
 
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