SRT8CUDA Build

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I swaped out the stock oil pan with a Milodon pan so that it would fit in the RMS suspension
I used the following parts
Oil pump pickup
18331​
Dipstick
22064​
Oil pan
31000​
Windage tray
32010​
Oil pan gasket (pr)
40750​
Oil pan bolts
85025​


The first problem was that the flange on the windage tray hit the side of the pan and then the bolt holes would not all line up with the block. I had to bend the flange back to provide some clearance

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To use the Milodon dipstick, you knock out the plug in the lower rail of the block to insert the dipstick. Then I found that the dipstick would not go into the pan because it hit the windage tray!! had to grind a bigger slot in the tray.

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Two new main cap bolts are needed for this installation. A new standard main cap bolt p/n 6506333AA to replace the extended bolt at #1 bearing. A new extended main cap bolt p/n 6506272AA to install on #3 main bearing cap. These are torqued to 28 N-m (21 ft-lbs) plus 90 degree turn. NEVER reuse a TTY bolt!! The std bolt was ~$2 and the extended one was ~ $8 can.

The pickup support did not sit flat on the #3 main cap bolt because the Windage tray was rounded instead of being flat around the bolt hole. I had to flatten the windage tray to allow the pickup to sit flat on the bolt.

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Next I found that the pickup tube was interfereing with the flange on the windage tray (probably because I had to bend it back to clear the pan!!) I had to reform it to clear the pan and allow the PU tube to sit down.

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Finally the dipstick tube was too long!! It is supposed to bolt under the rocker cover bolt, but is about 1" too long. I haven't figured out how to modify it so far!!

Overall - there is no way these parts will fit a 6.1 L Hemi without many mods. Not impressed!! It should have been a simple bolt-on.

I sent a letter to Milodon on Dec 12th but haven't had a reply yet. (could not find an e-mail address so I could snd photos)

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RealWing said:
Finally the dipstick tube was too long!! It is supposed to bolt under the rocker cover bolt, but is about 1" too long. I haven't figured out how to modify it so far!!

Overall - there is no way these parts will fit a 6.1 L Hemi without many mods. Not impressed!! It should have been a simple bolt-on.

I sent a letter to Milodon on Dec 12th but haven't had a reply yet. (could not find an e-mail address so I could snd photos)
Click to expand...

very sweet.... what program, software are you using to type words onto pics?
 
Wait till you find out that the Milidon pan hits the rack on the AlterK, your gonna really be pissed. At least mine did, so did the Charlie's (pos) ended up using a Canton pan. Good Luck...
 
Tincup said:
Wait till you find out that the Milidon pan hits the rack on the AlterK, your gonna really be pissed. At least mine did, so did the Charlie's (pos) ended up using a Canton pan. Good Luck...
Click to expand...

I sure hope it doesn't hit!! I looked at several other installs and confrimed with Bill at RMS and Dennis at Roosters Rod Shop that it will clear. I'm using the power rack and will probably have to reroute the equalizer line that runs across the top of the rack. Will know in a few days!!

This is a photo that shows it should clear OK

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HemiMark said:
very sweet.... what program, software are you using to type words onto pics?
Click to expand...

I use Microsoft Digital Image Pro 9. I bought it several years ago and I dont think it is in production now - but you can still find copies on the net.
I keep using it because my simple mind seems able to use it!!
 
I used a Charlies pan and pick up on my 5.7 with the factory windage tray.....NO PROBLEMS AT ALL! Also, I didn't need to replace ANY main bolts or nuts. Just took off the factory stuff and put on the new, no problems. One has to ask why there are so many problems with some companies products......I feel for ya, spending alot of money for new stuff and ya gotta screw around to make it fit right.

I think your doing a GREAT job of documenting the problems and showing the fixes so others have a better idea of what may happen if they do what your doing.
 
RealWing said:
Finally the dipstick tube was too long!! It is supposed to bolt under the rocker cover bolt, but is about 1" too long. I haven't figured out how to modify it so far!!

Overall - there is no way these parts will fit a 6.1 L Hemi without many mods. Not impressed!! It should have been a simple bolt-on.

I sent a letter to Milodon on Dec 12th but haven't had a reply yet. (could not find an e-mail address so I could snd photos)
Click to expand...

Bob Mazzolini sent my dipstick back to Milodon for shortening - they are aware of the problem with the 6.1 dipsticks...but dont seem to have a plan in place.

Looking at the dramas you are having with the Milodon splash tray...Im glad I used the factory one !!
 
RealWing said:
I use Microsoft Digital Image Pro 9. I bought it several years ago and I dont think it is in production now - but you can still find copies on the net.
I keep using it because my simple mind seems able to use it!!
Click to expand...

:thumblef:
 
Have started to get ready for the first trial fit of the motor and tranny into the car.
I needed a support stand to sit the engine and tranny on so we can drop the car onto it and bolt the RMS suspension frame to the frame rails.
Being an engineer - I had to do many design calculations and drawings - so after 3 weeks of intense work at 12 hrs/day , this is what the result was.:D:D:D

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Also started to assemble the Reilly Motor Sports "Street-Lynx" 4 bar rear suspension.

The first step is to weld the upper support bar to the frame rails. Due to production line tolerances, sometimes the upper support fits tight to the frame rails and other times there is a gap. I had a 1/8" gap. The instructions specify welding a plate onto the frame rails and then weld the support bar in place.

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This Al bellhousing is a refurbished 1968 unit. After doing the radial and axial runout checks, I will need to get some offset dowels to correct a 0.031" TIR (Specs are <0.008"). The axial runout was ~0.015" (specs are <0.006"), so I will have to shim the transmission to bellhousing to correct that as well.

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I really wish I knew how to do this runout check. I'm prolly gonna have to find someone loclly here to help me do mine with the quicktime bellhousing.

Keep up the great work.

Oh any pictures of the alternator area where it hits the frame rail?

Riddler
 
Riddler said:
I really wish I knew how to do this runout check. I'm prolly gonna have to find someone loclly here to help me do mine with the quicktime bellhousing.

Keep up the great work.

Oh any pictures of the alternator area where it hits the frame rail?

Riddler
Click to expand...

Which alternator? Car or Jeep?
 
RealWing said:
Bolted on the flywheel McLeod (p/n 46410) and SB bellhousing. (I haven't removed the ring in the back of the crank yet) Next step is to do a runout check to ensure the bore of the bellhousing is aligned with the centerline of the crank.
Click to expand...

Amazing how these "convert to fit" parts never seem to actually quite "fit"....:toothy5:

You're lucky you have the skills to work this through..........:prayer:

What I worry about is the 98% of readers on here who don't. :sad5:
 
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