Nothing to do with A bodies and Hemi's, but my Superbird was featured in the May edition of Mopar Muscle Magazine which hit the news stands last week. This Cuda is going to go together a LOT faster than the bird!!
SRT8CUDA Build
- Thread starter RealWing
- Start date
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CudaFan88
Well-Known Member
can't wait to see the Cuddie Cuda. :blob:
Thanks to a tip from CUDA SRT8, I now have a starter that fits perfectly!!
It is a 56029274AA from a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.7 L with a manual tranny. NAPA online shows this as a NNE 4N6987 (new) or here in Canada p/n 244-6987 (rebuilt): The photos shows the NAPA rebuilt unit that I got to see if it fit OK, but I"m going to get a new NAPA starter.
You do have to grind the block in at least 2 locations and maybe 3 as shown in the photos.
Th other great thing is that the starter is a long way from the headers, unlike the PowerMaster that sat very close to the headers.
It fits perfectly into the SB bellhousing.
So - DO NOT buy a PowerMaster starter as stated on TTI's web site. It does NOT fit.
(i've sent them photos of this Dodge Ram starter and asked them to change their web site asap.)
It is a 56029274AA from a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.7 L with a manual tranny. NAPA online shows this as a NNE 4N6987 (new) or here in Canada p/n 244-6987 (rebuilt): The photos shows the NAPA rebuilt unit that I got to see if it fit OK, but I"m going to get a new NAPA starter.
You do have to grind the block in at least 2 locations and maybe 3 as shown in the photos.
Th other great thing is that the starter is a long way from the headers, unlike the PowerMaster that sat very close to the headers.
It fits perfectly into the SB bellhousing.
So - DO NOT buy a PowerMaster starter as stated on TTI's web site. It does NOT fit.
(i've sent them photos of this Dodge Ram starter and asked them to change their web site asap.)
You also have to drill out the threaded top hole in the starter to allow it to be bolted to the bellhousing.
The starter pinion mesh with the flywheel looks very good. THis is with a McLeod 464108 steel flywheel
The starter fits in the splash shield OK. YOu may have to do a bit of clearancing.
Another header problem. The flywheel cover plate doesn't fit. The one header pipe on the passenger side is too close to the bellhousing.
In checking with TTI - they say they used a stamped steel cover plate for fitment, but this stock type stamped steel plate doesn't fit. Will have to do some grinding to remove the lip on the plate and maybe move the bolt on the corner.
I'm sure I can make it fit, but still a pain to have to do so.
In checking with TTI - they say they used a stamped steel cover plate for fitment, but this stock type stamped steel plate doesn't fit. Will have to do some grinding to remove the lip on the plate and maybe move the bolt on the corner.
I'm sure I can make it fit, but still a pain to have to do so.
Got the engine installed for a trial fitment of everything. Seems to be good clearance for everything, however the header is very close to the frame rail on the passenger side.
After we tried many different ways to get that rack into place - I thought you were right!!! Just no way could we get it in. Looked like there was no enough clearance between the rack and the front face on the pan.
jacked up the engine , lowered the RMS frame - still no way. Back and forth with Bill Reilly at RMS in many e-mails with photos and measurements. Bill had a '68 Dart in the shop he was working on. He had more clearance that I did so here is what he did today for me. This is his e-mail to me:
"Just for the hell of it, I cut the flange off the forward engine mount bushings, which allowed me to move the engine forward slightly. It now measures 1-13/16" from pan to mounts on the straight edge. Pics kinda blurry, but you can see where it's at.
Now for this next video, I didn’t raise the engine - it's actually resting in the mounts and bolted in with the tighter clearances - no jacking it up, no pry bars or cheating of any kind. Here's the link…" [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kblVCnLrLuk"]Rack fitment. - YouTube[/ame]
After watching his video, I was able to get the rack installed and there is lots of clearance!!
I can't say enough good things about Bill and how helpful he was.
You have to shorten the outer tube on the steering column back to the firewall. I cut 2-1/4" off the tube and cut a new slot for the lower bearing. (This is the original column in the car that had PS and console auto shifter.)
There is little clearance between the steering shaft and the corner of the valve cover. I'll move the column over slightly to get more clearance.
74DartSwinger360
The Brat Pack
Very nice. Cant wait to see the finished product
Had the factory AC/Heater box restored by Mr Heaterbox in Harrowsmith , Ontario. http://www.mrheaterbox.com/
They did an excellent job and are definitely recommended.
They did an excellent job and are definitely recommended.
My original "woodgrain" steering wheel was in bad shape with a big wide crack in the rim. Had it restored my Steering Wheels by Mike http://www.steeringwheelsbymike.com/
Would never know it was the same wheel!!
Would never know it was the same wheel!!
Started to see how the tangle of wiring is going to run for the FAST EFI (XFI) and Ignition system (XIM). The convoluted tubing covering all the wires has to go (GM garbage!!). Will wrap the wires like original Mopar wiring and maybe use some of the tubing for the wires that I'm going to run under the intake manifold..
FAST also wants you to cut a 2" hole in the firewall for the main wiring harness grommet. It doesn't need to be this big once you take all the tubing off, however it will be a challenge to find a spot that won't interfere with the AC/Heater core inside.
The XIM wiring also has to come through the firewall since I'm going to mount its module inside the car. That wiring cannot come through the same hole as the main harness to prevent cross talk.
FAST also wants you to cut a 2" hole in the firewall for the main wiring harness grommet. It doesn't need to be this big once you take all the tubing off, however it will be a challenge to find a spot that won't interfere with the AC/Heater core inside.
The XIM wiring also has to come through the firewall since I'm going to mount its module inside the car. That wiring cannot come through the same hole as the main harness to prevent cross talk.
Thanks!!!
Hi Jim
I just joined here and found this thread. Looks like you have been busy since finishing the Superbird. This is a great build, keep up the good work. Do you think it will be ready by Moparfest?
Dave
I just joined here and found this thread. Looks like you have been busy since finishing the Superbird. This is a great build, keep up the good work. Do you think it will be ready by Moparfest?
Dave
scottylack
Well-Known Member
a++++++
Dave
The way it is going - I doubt it will be ready this year. My plan is to be ready for 2014. The big unknown at this point is when Jamie Passon will have my 5 speed OD tranny made. I had thought it would have been ready last year!!
We put the engine in with a 4 speed A-833 behind it for mock up checks.
Jim
It looks like we should have installed the shifter hump a little bit further back in the car. Will have to do a bit of trimming to clear the shifter. Will also have to weld a small patch at the front of the hole because we are using a rubber boot from a B-Body (Could not find an A-Body boot with the rectangular opening)
The rear suspension is the RMS Street Lynx 4 link and the axle is a Moser 8-3/4" design. The axles are a custom 33 spline and are modified for Ford (ugh) tapered roller bearings to accommodate the rear disk brakes.
When we first installed the rear axle it was too far back in the body. A check with Bill at RMS revealed that he had mistakenly packed an unmodified lower strut bar. Bill explained that these are made in one length and then cut to fit different body styles. He immediately volunteered to send me the correct ones or explained that I could cut off 1.75" and thread the bar deeper. I decided it was easier to modify the bars myself.
The length of the bars is then set to 20.5" for the A Body. The upper bars are set to 10.5" long.
The axle was then correctly centered in the wheel opening.
When we first installed the rear axle it was too far back in the body. A check with Bill at RMS revealed that he had mistakenly packed an unmodified lower strut bar. Bill explained that these are made in one length and then cut to fit different body styles. He immediately volunteered to send me the correct ones or explained that I could cut off 1.75" and thread the bar deeper. I decided it was easier to modify the bars myself.
The length of the bars is then set to 20.5" for the A Body. The upper bars are set to 10.5" long.
The axle was then correctly centered in the wheel opening.
The 12.19" rear disk brake rotors would not seat on the axle flange. Found that the wheel studs had a shoulder that prevented seating. This can be fixed with a small amount of grinding.
Did a trial fit of a couple of tires. A 225/50-R17 and a 235/50-R17
The 235/50-R17 looked the best for the rear. A wider tire will go in there, but I dont want to get too tight and have a rub on aggressive cornering.
The 235/50-R17 looked the best for the rear. A wider tire will go in there, but I dont want to get too tight and have a rub on aggressive cornering.
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