help me get low 11s

-
carkindaguy

carkindaguy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Messages
86
Reaction score
1
Location
coucil bluffs ia/from phx
heres the motor
motor is 360 .040
%100 cnc ported eddy head byhughes
10:5.1 comp
lunati cam solid flat
Lift .546"/.566" [email protected] 243/251 LSA/IAC 110/106
lunati lifters
hughes roller rockers
eddy rpm air gap intake
holley ultra 750 double pumper
eagle floating sir rods
kb flat top pistons
comp cams push rods
mallory billet dist.
msd plug wires
lifter valley tray and windage pan tray


with this new cam what do you guys think my hp power and tq rating are??? its in my duster. i want to get the car to run low 11s. what stall converter should i get and what rear gears. its mostly driven around town in 35 mph streets. no highway and some track time a couple times a year.i need a low 11 recipe?
 
a set of 3.91 -4.10 gears will do the job and still be ok on the street. 4.30-4.56 if you have a really tall tire. with your heads im guessing the engine loves to rev. what kind of exhaust is on the car? a set of large tube full length headers are your friend. the converter is going to need to be in the 3800-4500 stall speed to get it out of the hole in a hurry. drag radials are worth a tenth or so on the top end. a low 11s second car is no joke. its pretty easy to do and from what you posted about the engine it should be more than up to the task. my .02
 
my tires are 28 tall radials. im going to get mt et streets some day. should i stick with a 28inch tire? my exhaust is tti full length stepped headers, 2.5 x pipe with electric cutouts and flowmaster 40s. i plan on getting a good converter but i would like to keep cost under $600, is there one that will do the job for that?
 
Your build is VERY similar to what I have in my 65 Barracuda; we differ on cam (I have MP 557), intake (I use M1 single plane), and I use 1.6 rockers.

I've been [email protected] with 4.56 gears and 28 inch tall Hoosers, I think 4.30's would work best.

Converter is a PTC, 5000 stall; suspension out back is Calvert Mono-leafs, Caltracks, and Rancho adjustibles. Best 60ft has been a 1.4550 with M/T 275/60x15 Drag radials.

My cars weighs 3040 with me in it, I'm about 175lbs.
 
carkindaguy said:
my tires are 28 tall radials. im going to get mt et streets some day. should i stick with a 28inch tire? my exhaust is tti full length stepped headers, 2.5 x pipe with electric cutouts and flowmaster 40s. i plan on getting a good converter but i would like to keep cost under $600, is there one that will do the job for that?
Click to expand...


you get what you pay for with a converter. it is in my opinion one of the most important parts to a drag car. for AROUND $600 you can get a converter from dynamic. they make an awesome converter. my dads 10.60s street car, 71 demon with 451 stroker runs a dynamic for the last 5 yrs without a single problem. drive it 30 mile to and from the track and never misses a beat. with the 28" tire i think you can get there with 3.91s but a 4.10 would be my choice.
 
Don't skimp on the converter! If you put a crap converter in, the car will ET like crap. With a set of street slicks and a GOOD converter you should have no problems getting into the 11's....how low you go in the 11's depends on how well you set up your chassis.

If this is more of a strip oriented build (and if it were me), I would get a tight 8" PTC converter (about 4500 stall), 28" Hoosier QTP tires for the rear, 4.10 gears, and some 90/10 drag shocks for the front....it should boogie.
 
flyfish said:
Don't skimp on the converter! If you put a crap converter in, the car will ET like crap. With a set of street slicks and a GOOD converter you should have no problems getting into the 11's....how low you go in the 11's depends on how well you set up your chassis.

If this is more of a strip oriented build (and if it were me), I would get a tight 8" PTC converter (about 4500 stall), 28" Hoosier QTP tires for the rear, 4.10 gears, and some 90/10 drag shocks for the front....it should boogie.
Click to expand...

That's a lot of converter lol...I have a 4200 stall from Dynamic and I paid 700ish for it 9 1/2...I plan to run low 11s high 10s.
 
Fst73_360 said:
That's a lot of converter lol...I have a 4200 stall from Dynamic and I paid 700ish for it 9 1/2...I plan to run low 11s high 10s.
Click to expand...

That's about what I have in my car, except that converter behind my stroker stalls a tick over 5000 rpm. Works great, super consistent at the track. I got my 8" PTC about 5 years ago, it was 650 bucks back then and the prices were going up. Not sure what they are now.
 
i was planning on 410 gears so i was right on there. if i were to go with 430 gears could i still cruze around town at 40mph without running the rpms through the roof? also i dont know s@&$ about converters. when i go to order one what info does dynamics need to build one for my setup?
 
Just a note..a stock stroke 360 is going to want more converter and gearing then a 408 engine...

and if you run faster then 11.49 the car will require a roll bar at a Nhra track...dont know about IHRA
 
flyfish said:
That's about what I have in my car, except that converter behind my stroker stalls a tick over 5000 rpm. Works great, super consistent at the track. I got my 8" PTC about 5 years ago, it was 650 bucks back then and the prices were going up. Not sure what they are now.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have seen your combo. Love it, but I do tend to drive mine a lot more on the street than track. 80/20 Street
 
carkindaguy said:
i was planning on 410 gears so i was right on there. if i were to go with 430 gears could i still cruze around town at 40mph without running the rpms through the roof? also i dont know s@&$ about converters. when i go to order one what info does dynamics need to build one for my setup?
Click to expand...


just give them a call and know the weight of your car and your engine specs. be honest with them and dont pad the #s. i would guess your combo is in the 450-500 hp range.
 
carkindaguy said:
i was planning on 410 gears so i was right on there. if i were to go with 430 gears could i still cruze around town at 40mph without running the rpms through the roof? also i dont know s@&$ about converters. when i go to order one what info does dynamics need to build one for my setup?
Click to expand...

Car weight, cam/build specs, intended usage and what you expect out of the car, rear gears, rear tire size basically everything you can tell them about the car.
 
as said above on how important a converter is, pay for a good one and you WILL be happy. I had my first real converter (no off the shelf type) built two weeks ago.
8" /4500 from PTC....MAN what a difference off the line! :blob:
 
I am curious why you would use that cam and serious head porting then put a dual plane manifold on it. I don't think this combo will run low 11s mid 11s yes.
 
Fst73_360 said:
Yes, I have seen your combo. Love it, but I do tend to drive mine a lot more on the street than track. 80/20 Street
Click to expand...

Haha, yes I'm probably the inverse of that (20/80). Mine hits the streets on the weekends when I'm not racing.

To the OP, Yes, call a good converter company (take your pick) and give them your specs, they will build what you need.

To 67cudafb, the intake is not too big of a deal IMO. My car runs only a few hundredths slower with my Air-gap on (6.89 with the Air-gap). With that said, if he had a bigger cam, then it would be a bigger deal IMO.
 
Only takes about 475 fwhp to move a 3300# car to an 11.00 et.

The chassis is the make or break, not the hp. More HP makes it easier if the chassis stinks. Get it to 60' and the ET will follow. A converter is one of, if not the KEY component to getting good results.
 
its always fun to see what a car is going to do when you get it to the track. i think maybe run what you got now with a good set of tires and lay down some base #s. that is also alot of fun seeing how well the car reacts to a part change one at a time. when i had my small block in my dart it was nowhere as quick as you want to go but it was my daily driver and only car i owned. it was only a 318. when i first took it to the track it went 15.20 with 2.76 gears and one tire fire. put a set of 3.55s with sure grip and she went 14.20. put a tci 3000 stall converter in it and it dropped down to a 1.75 60ft and 13.70s
 
so say i get 430 rear gears and 4000 stall converter. #3200 car with 470-500hp and 28" tire and 727 will i redline before i hit 1/4 mile? i dont want to have to change the rear gear more than once.
 
I'd guess that combo will deliver peak HP somewhere around 6500 RPM. You'll want to gear such that the engine reaches the peak HP RPM before the end of the track. Otherwise you're not using all the power available. With 4.30 gears and 28" tires, you'll be turning about 6500-6600 RPM at 125 MPH.

You may want to consider a single plane intake. Sure the dual plane helps with low RPM torque, but with a 3500+ RPM converter who cares about torque at 2000.
 
carkindaguy said:
heres the motor
motor is 360 .040
%100 cnc ported eddy head byhughes
10:5.1 comp
lunati cam solid flat
Lift .546"/.566" [email protected] 243/251 LSA/IAC 110/106
lunati lifters
hughes roller rockers
eddy rpm air gap intake
holley ultra 750 double pumper
eagle floating sir rods
kb flat top pistons
comp cams push rods
mallory billet dist.
msd plug wires
lifter valley tray and windage pan tray


with this new cam what do you guys think my hp power and tq rating are??? its in my duster. i want to get the car to run low 11s. what stall converter should i get and what rear gears. its mostly driven around town in 35 mph streets. no highway and some track time a couple times a year.i need a low 11 recipe?
Click to expand...

I would recommend a 3500 stall converter and 3.91 or 4.10's this sounds like a low 11 or high 10's car to me.... Don't overkill on the converter. If you go 4.10 rears you could even use 3000 stall which will make the car more driveable on the street
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top