Dumping the points ---> Your thoughts

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68-GTS

68-GTS

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just buy a Petronix Ignitor II or III (limiter) and it bolts to your current points dizzy. about half the cost and hassle.
 
Skip White from E-Bay. Cheap and it's real easy. Just need to by-pass the ballast resistor. If I had the right wires, it would of been done in 15 minutes. Did I say cheap? Around $60 I believe?
 
And the gate is down!!!!

HEI is out by a nose, with Mopar ECU snorting fire close abreast. MSD, Pertronix, and mother lover's son all bunched up as we go into the first turn.......................
 
I did the HEI swap with the MP quick advance dist using the conversion kit from http://designed2drive.com Easy to do and a HUGE improement over the orange box. I think I picked up 2 mpg by just doing that swap alone.
 
Like others have allready stated, Contact Trailbeast, or swing by his site.
http://classichei.com/

Ill be doing this very soon as well,albeit to the chagrin of my mopar mentors..lol
 
Thanks for all the other options, but which of the two I listed would you choose if you had the choice ?
 
I prefer stock-type, myself. Easier to get parts for in the future and no "What the hell did I do, again....?" ten years down the road, on the side of the road.
 
I have one of those cheap nasty "ready-to-run" type distributors and just put a (super reliable) bosch module in it and had it curved to suit my cam.

Can't beat it in terms of bang for your buck!
 
I've got the Pertronix billet plug-n play distributor in my Challenger. Super easy to install and set up, with a few different spring sets to modify the advance. I probably have about 30k miles on it, no complaints.

But I've also run the mopar electronic set up on my other cars without issue. Just don't buy the cheapest ECU.
 
I will answer this question for you.
Of the two you listed above I would do the second one, for these reasons.

The first choice sticks you with a ballast resistor and a standard type coil.
This system is probably not even as good as the original equipment as far as reliability.

The second choice is an HEI capable unit with ALL ignition components inside the distributor except the coil.
With that distributor and an HEI type Ecoil you have true high energy ignition and way less parts and wires.

I also wouldn't buy something that uses the older four pin ECU module since they tend to burn out if the power to them is low (under 12 volts)
The Designed to drive systems use these dated modules.
The 8 pin modules are much more reliable.

As far as wondering what was done years down the road, the 8 pin HEI systems are simple plug in parts that can be gotten at any parts house, in most any town, and in stock.
Should the module ever die it would literally take 2 min to change it.
Same with the coils.

The one thing I don't understand is why someone would spend $300 (you'll need a coil) for an ignition system, but that is your choice if that is what you want to do.
 
unless you are going with MSD (either the all-in-one dizzy or their dizz + ign) then go with the actual mopar performance pieces.

i know someone who got a summit knock-off copy and the car doenst run very well.
it's not worth saving $50 and having problems. really.
 
I picked up several replacement modules for the Skip White distributor, just in case. Car is stock 318 for now. Easy hook up, and cheap. I'm not an expert with these cars, nor am I just off the turnip truck. Neither do I have money coming out of my ears. System was cheap and easy to install, this ain't no race car. I didn't have to take the cap off to put anything in it, just pull old and put in new, of course making sure rotor was pointing right.
 
TrailBeast said:
I will answer this question for you.
Of the two you listed above I would do the second one, for these reasons.

The first choice sticks you with a ballast resistor and a standard type coil.
This system is probably not even as good as the original equipment as far as reliability.

The second choice is an HEI capable unit with ALL ignition components inside the distributor except the coil.
With that distributor and an HEI type Ecoil you have true high energy ignition and way less parts and wires.

Again many for your honest opinion Trail :)
I also wouldn't buy something that uses the older four pin ECU module since they tend to burn out if the power to them is low (under 12 volts)
The Designed to drive systems use these dated modules.
Ironically I was leaning towards the OEM style as I,ve had years of experience with them.

Again many thanks for your honest opinion Trail :)
The 8 pin modules are much more reliable.

As far as wondering what was done years down the road, the 8 pin HEI systems are simple plug in parts that can be gotten at any parts house, in most any town, and in stock.
Should the module ever die it would literally take 2 min to change it.
Same with the coils.

The one thing I don't understand is why someone would spend $300 (you'll need a coil) for an ignition system, but that is your choice if that is what you want to do.
Click to expand...

Thanks Trail you answered my question perfectly..
As to the wonder why.. At 50+ years of age I'm not keen on chasing down parts in a wrecker and really not interested on breaking down on some hi-way with a use part. 20 years ago maybe but now better safe than sorry.
 
68-GTS said:
Thanks Trail you answered my question perfectly..
As to the wonder why.. At 50+ years of age I'm not keen on chasing down parts in a wrecker and really not interested on breaking down on some hi-way with a use part. 20 years ago maybe but now better safe than sorry.
Click to expand...

I understand, but you are misunderstanding.
Parts can be gotten brand new anywhere any day of the week for the HEI units, and they do simply plug in for replacement.

It's the parts you are considering that you are not going to find and have to order and wait for.
That's ok, no matter what we all say some people are just not convinced. :D

And you are very welcome for the information.
 
A few words in favor of points. Keep in mind that I daily drive my Mopars and all of them have points. Sole exception is my 73 340 Roadrunner, but that's only because I have not gotten around to swapping in a dual point yet.
1) There has only been one formal dyno shootout between the various types of ignitions. Car Craft did one a several years ago (Google it) between a stock single point, an HEI and an aftermarket unit (don't recall if it was MSD or Jacobs) Guess which one made more HP and Torque and at a higher RPM than the others......
2) I used to race Nitro cars. Back in the 90's, when the cars were in the 4's and over 300 MPH, we were using Mallory Super Mags, which at the time were LITERALLY a big single point distributor perched atop a big generator. At the time, various electronic triggering devices were being tried, but none were nearly as reliable as the points set up.
3) Simplicity simplicity simplicity!!!! One wire runs the show. The way most hobby cars are used (weekends and special occasions...a few track outings a year) A properly gapped and lubed set of points will not only outlast the owner, but probably his kids too.
4) Roadside repairs. A spare everything for your entire ignition system will fit in your glove compartment with room to spare. A screwdriver, 5/16th's wrench and .016 feeler gauge are the only things you need to get yourself unstuck in minutes anytime any place.
All that said, I don't care what I'm building or for what purpose, I would not consider any type of electronic ignition anytime for any thing. They're a waste and I know this from 36 years of practical hands on experience.
 
TrailBeast said:
I understand, but you are misunderstanding.
Parts can be gotten brand new anywhere any day of the week for the HEI units, and they do simply plug in for replacement.

It's the parts you are considering that you are not going to find and have to order and wait for.
That's ok, no matter what we all say some people are just not convinced. :D

And you are very welcome for the information.
Click to expand...

But that problem won't exist if I go the OEM route
 
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