340 build No POWER need help w tune

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Originally Posted by crackedback
Stock distributor? Really?

If you didn't have at least 18* on it, you aren't even close. That thing won't idle worth a darn with the total timing method and a stock distributor. The big rpm drop is the first clue, idle mix screws not killing it is second... it's not on the idle circuit.

I'll bet it will want 22-24 initial and 12-14 mechanical to hit your number. Go out and turn the distributor CCW when running, if it picks up rpm, it wants the timing. That should idle in the 850-900 range and not drop more than about 100 rpm in gear.
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Before you do anything, put the light on it and turn the distributor so you have 20-24* at idle. You'll likely have to close up the throttle plates as you add more timing because the idle speed will pick up. As you turn the idle speed back down verify that it still has the 20-24 timing you set it to start with. If it drops out, add it back in. At some point the mix screws should start to have an effect and engine will shut off when screwed all the way in..

On the MSD, put the 18* black bushing on it and one of the light silver and light blue springs. Toss the garage door springs it comes with in the bag...

If you want a limiter bushing that allows for more initial timing, I have them in both 10 and 14 degree versions.

The stock electronic distributors can work. They just aren't set up for anything with a decent sized cam.

I've fixed tons of cars that run just like your right now. Takes time to get your ignition ti
 
I think from here I would see if I could determine, for sure, where TDC for #1 is. Is there any possibility that your harmonic balancer and timing cover/pointer aren't made for each other?......different years?
 
340Duster247 said:
Originally Posted by crackedback
Stock distributor? Really?

If you didn't have at least 18* on it, you aren't even close. That thing won't idle worth a darn with the total timing method and a stock distributor. The big rpm drop is the first clue, idle mix screws not killing it is second... it's not on the idle circuit.

I'll bet it will want 22-24 initial and 12-14 mechanical to hit your number. Go out and turn the distributor CCW when running, if it picks up rpm, it wants the timing. That should idle in the 850-900 range and not drop more than about 100 rpm in gear.
#
Before you do anything, put the light on it and turn the distributor so you have 20-24* at idle. You'll likely have to close up the throttle plates as you add more timing because the idle speed will pick up. As you turn the idle speed back down verify that it still has the 20-24 timing you set it to start with. If it drops out, add it back in. At some point the mix screws should start to have an effect and engine will shut off when screwed all the way in..

On the MSD, put the 18* black bushing on it and one of the light silver and light blue springs. Toss the garage door springs it comes with in the bag...

If you want a limiter bushing that allows for more initial timing, I have them in both 10 and 14 degree versions.

The stock electronic distributors can work. They just aren't set up for anything with a decent sized cam.

I've fixed tons of cars that run just like your right now. Takes time to get your ignition ti
Click to expand...

i think he was getting at "out of the box" the stock dizzy is not going to work, but with have it tuned (light springs, limited travel on mechanical) it will do the same thing the MSD will, spin and give advance when you want.
 
cudavert said:
I think from here I would see if I could determine, for sure, where TDC for #1 is. Is there any possibility that your harmonic balancer and timing cover/pointer aren't made for each other?......different years?
Click to expand...

end of last page, i just asked
 
The stock distributor is more than enough for your engine when it's set up right. The MP electronic are some of the best. Plus it has vacuum advance which you'll want if you ever want to drive it on the street.
 
So did you go out and buy/borrow a NON-adjustable timing light yet? If your engine is as built up as you say it should have a damper with timing advance marks built in going up to at least 50* BTDC so a dial-back timing gun is pointless. If you don't have a marked damper you can do it yourself with a dremel tool and cutoff wheel; just rotate the crank 10* at a time and cut a small groove just enough to be visible. I've found this to work better and be more permanent than timing tape which can fly off.

Did reversing those distributor wires make any difference?
 
Check to see that your wires are on the right terminals on the cap. The cylinders are only 45 degrees apart on the distributor cap.
 
Did you put the correct timeing cover on it, are the indicators on the passenger side or the drivers side ?
 
trapster said:
Did you put the correct timeing cover on it, are the indicators on the passenger side or the drivers side ?
Click to expand...

will guys stop and actually read the entire post before throwing stuff out? your going to confuse him and make us go backwards...

we already confirmed that at TDC the balancer is at 0* and with the MSD dizzy it was not pointed at number one, but was with MP dizzy.

as i remember last night he needed to put the MP dizzy in it and set initial timing to to 18* (but dont rev) and see what happens.
 
Sorry guys about being away but here are the updates.
Wefound out the polarity from msd digital 6 box going into the distributor were back wards. We switched them and the initail timing went back to a number we can now work with and make sense of it ...
Right now I have my initial at around 26* and I believe with a black bushings and 1 silver 1 blue spring this will add another 18* mechanical.
Is this to much total?
I must admit the richness has gone down but I still don't have controll of my idle screws.
On another note, (sometimes) when I mash the gas from a dead stop. She will die.....???....

Ps the reason for the wrong polarity is because violet wire from msd does NOT go to violet on dist. Live and learn from your mistakes I guess.

I was thinking about trying my timing at 18 initial which would put me around 36 total but not sure how she will idol.
What are your guys thoughts on my initial timing for this set up

MOPARKID THANK YOU!!!! for all the help on this thread if I'm ever back in phoenix a cold beer is on me!!
 
340Duster247 said:
Sorry guys about being away but here are the updates.
Wefound out the polarity from msd digital 6 box going into the distributor were back wards. We switched them and the initail timing went back to a number we can now work with and make sense of it ...
Right now I have my initial at around 26* and I believe with a black bushings and 1 silver 1 blue spring this will add another 18* mechanical.
Is this to much total?
I must admit the richness has gone down but I still don't have controll of my idle screws.
On another note, (sometimes) when I mash the gas from a dead stop. She will die.....???....

Ps the reason for the wrong polarity is because violet wire from msd does NOT go to violet on dist. Live and learn from your mistakes I guess.

I was thinking about trying my timing at 18 initial which would put me around 36 total but not sure how she will idol.
What are your guys thoughts on my initial timing for this set up

MOPARKID THANK YOU!!!! for all the help on this thread if I'm ever back in phoenix a cold beer is on me!!
Click to expand...

progress is great! thats about 44* of total which is to much, get it down to 34* by 2500 and see what it does, also get the initial down to 20* is a good starting point.

still odd your screws dont work... refresh my memory but did you check the idle bleeds?
 
Ill get th initial down to 20*, this will put my total at 38 correct??
About the idle bleeds what should I be checking for?
 
340Duster247 said:
Ill get th initial down to 20*, this will put my total at 38 correct??
About the idle bleeds what should I be checking for?
Click to expand...

the idle air bleeds allow air to enter the idle circuit. so the more you open the idle mix screw the more mixture you pull thru the it. with the bleed plugged its only pulling fuel, hence the reason you can still kill the motor. but when the bleed is open you get a LEANER mixture.

what you need to do is pull the primary side (or both if 4 corner idle) float bowl and block off and blow air thru the passages. then spray some carb cleaner. i like to use a flashlight and look thru the passages (flashlight up against the block side of the body looking thru the bleeds) no light means its plugged
 
Ok. I did check the air bleeds but not as good as u described. I just inspected from the top down.
And the holley is a 4 corner idle. About one year old barley used.
 
Set initial and get your idle under control... DO NOT worry about your total number at this point.

If the engine has been on a dyno then you should know roughly where total will fall. If not, don't worry about it now.
 
340Duster247 said:
Ok. I did check the air bleeds but not as good as u described. I just inspected from the top down.
And the holley is a 4 corner idle. About one year old barley used.
Click to expand...

its kinda a all or nothing deal. if they are not clear then need to be cleaned or you'll never get it right. its easy to do! being a 4 corner you need to do both sides.
 
If it won't die running the mix screws in, it's getting fuel from somewhere and those fuel pumps are known to put out too much pressure.
 
Yes sometimes it does after acceleration " a quick snap"
Has very disappointing power at bottom end. Don't have the room to top end test yet.

The fuel pressure is ussually between 6-7 but the other day it was bouncing between 8-9.
I was under the impression that this pump does not require a regulator. And has its own cut off?? I am confident that the fuel pump is not my problem. When this carb was on my buddy's chevelle with a 400hp 400sb she ran very ritch for him.
 
Fuel pump will cause a rich condition, it is well known it needs a requlator.
$30.00 from summit.

Ask you buddy what pump he was running on his chevy, since the carb ran rich on another motor.
 
Can you beg, borrow or come up with another carb to try?
 
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