How long does your Optima battery last?

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340doc

340doc

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I have a red top in the trunk, seems like its getting weak. About two, two and a half years old.
 
we are having the same problem with two brand new ones we are in the process of figuring out whats going on--Steve
 
Zach goes out on a run at 100% and comes back at 50% with a BRAND NEW alternator installed--Steve
 
my red top is over 5 years old and is still as strong as ever .
 
AGM batteries like Optima's will require periodic "deep" slow charging to maintain long life. The proper info can be found on the Optima web site.
 
The ones with the batteries in the trunk that have been there for awhile might want to make sure of the terminals and connections before assuming it's the battery.

Not saying tha's what it is, just that it could be.
 
mine lasted like 8 years. but i got mine before JCI took them over. i've seen numerous threads on other boards about how poo the quality has been sine JCI bought them.
 
75Sport said:
AGM batteries like Optima's will require periodic "deep" slow charging to maintain long life. The proper info can be found on the Optima web site.
Click to expand...

i never did that and mine was fine for many years. hell i even ground it to nothing and quick charged it many times. never a problem with it.
 
Mine lasted 4 years. Worked perfect and then went to start the car one day and it was dead and would not take a charge. My brother only got a year out of his but had run it low a couple of times.
 
The float voltage for an AGM battery is 13.5 V. I had an Optima last 7 years, it may have lasted longer if I drove the car more.
 
WE just took ours out and had them load tested and passed with flying colors,Now i have to dig deeper,Are we being paranoid using batt. percentages instead of voltage readings on the optima's??? Sorry to hi-jack-We even bought the $300 optima charger---Steve
 
On car charging requires a special regulator. The charge voltage is about 14.4V, but it varies with battery temperature. Float voltage is about 13.5V, so no way to do both with OEM MOPAR regulators.

Here is a special regulator that is flexible to work with most all alternators and battery technologies.
http://sterling-power-usa.com/proreg-B-12voltadvancedalternatorregulator.aspx
I was thinking about designing one, but found this one for sale.
 
Not to (well OK, to ) hijack, but what is recommended alternative? I'm seriously thinking of a trunk mount
 
Sorry, please explain what FLOAT voltage is. are you saying you cant use an Optima battery with a stock regulator?
 
"Float" in simple terms is the long term voltage a battery "likes" to keep it "up" without boiling it dry or causing other damage and shortened life. The extreme example of this would be some of what I used to do...........remote mountaintop radio sites. A bank of batteries on an emergency services two-way radio might be "up there" for a number of years with a "float" charger, and when you need it "you need it."

As you guys have no doubt heard me preaching on here, voltage drop in factory systems causes reduced voltage to the regulator, causing the regulator to jack the actual battery voltage. This is bad enough with lead acid, but when you add the idea of an AGM this becomes even more problematic.
 
TrailBeast said:
The ones with the batteries in the trunk that have been there for awhile might want to make sure of the terminals and connections before assuming it's the battery.

Not saying tha's what it is, just that it could be.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I went over all the connections, the only thing I found was the small bolts that attach the field terminals to the alt were loose. The resting voltage of battery is 12.2 , with car running 14.6
 
What are the details of your charging system, IE one wire? Mopar "dual field?"

14.6 is too high, but also, you need to measure it with engine / regulator warmed up. The regulator is temperature compensated.
 
My red top Optima is going on atleast 15 years old and going strong....it was still made in the USA, Colorado I believe and is the best friken battery I ever had, used it in 2 cars now and never an issue, even charge it with a regular charger and has been run dead many times when a few alternators went out or something drained it......wish I had bought more at the time I got this, heard the new ones are junk.
 

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We have no regulator but the one built into our one wire alternator which is brand new-Steve
 
Mine is 9 years old and still going strong. I do disconnect the positive when the car is sitting. And yes they do like a slow low amp charge every now and then.
 
66340SEDAN said:
My red top Optima is going on atleast 15 years old and going strong....it was still made in the USA, Colorado I believe and is the best friken battery I ever had, used it in 2 cars now and never an issue, even charge it with a regular charger and has been run dead many times when a few alternators went out or something drained it......wish I had bought more at the time I got this, heard the new ones are junk.
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I have a couple that are the same. Sad to hear they have "fixed" them.
 
Didn't have any luck at all with them. I took a BIG BAD Sears Diehard (that was in there for almost 9 years) out to put in the Optima. The only reason I took the Sears battery out was because I was worried about it's age. I always keep my batteries on a maintainer I guess that's why they last so long. The Optima never did crank as well as the Diehard and eventually I would have slow cranking issues when at the shows. I took it out after 2 years and replaced it with a platinum series Diehard, no more cranking problems.
 
By looking at the specifications for charging an AGM battery, the float voltage where the battery may be held long term, is less than the charge voltage. So starting energy may be less, if the battery never sees full charge voltage recommended, for a charge period. After charge the battery is then held at float voltage. Use of the battery will discharge it some, and will not fully charge at lower float voltage. Holding the battery at the higher charge voltage will lead to overcharge, drying out and plate damage.

Correct chargers are smart, they can measure battery impedance by measuring with a controlled transient load, and also provide voltage spikes to maintain full charge without overcharge. They also vary voltages slightly based on battery temperature.

I built an electric car in the early 80's, drove it for 3 years as my daily driver including winter in northern Illinois. I learned some about batteries, but have forgot most.
 
the bad thing about non-lead acid batteries:

if you run them too low, they will never charge back to full. this goes for phones, laptops, lithium ions, etc.

in other words, never run them dead.

i'm not sure if the new optima's / AGM's fall into this category or not. but i can tell you i've dealt with dozens of laptops and phones that had to have batteries replaced because people dont keep them topped off like they should.

here's an article for further reading:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/general/hrdp_1009_how_to_charge_a_agm_battery/

i'm pretty sure they agree that if you run the battery too low, you ruin it.
 
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