Big block camshaft question

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devo

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Hello Chaps,Just wanting to ask and it probably has been asked on here before but...
Are all the big block 383,400,413,426 and 440 camshafts interchangeable?And question number 2,What are the advantages and disadvantages of running a roller cam,and advantages of running a solid cam im a little confused ie.with the solid cam are you always adjusting rocker gear?
Thanks again for youre imput much appreciated
Daveo
 
devo said:
Hello Chaps,Just wanting to ask and it probably has been asked on here before but...
Are all the big block 383,400,413,426 and 440 camshafts interchangeable?And question number 2,What are the advantages and disadvantages of running a roller cam,and advantages of running a solid cam im a little confused ie.with the solid cam are you always adjusting rocker gear?
Thanks again for youre imput much appreciated
Daveo
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All B/RB cams are pretty much interchangeable,,,, The roller cam, offers more streetability, more lift more horse power across the board. The expense on a roller will be 1000-1200 U.S dollars, new. A solid lifter cam, is much cheaper, offers slightly less horsepower,,,, I know you are testing the waters, do you have an engine in mind? Being across the pond, shipping & customs give no love to overseas hot rodders.
 
Other than the single bolt and 3 bolt cams, yes interchangeable.

Abody mentioned the roller cam difference.

One thing I would tell you is to go solid either way. Once you dispel the solid cam myths they really are superior.
 
Are 426 Hemi cams different than the rest of the B/RB line?
 
roccodart440 said:
Other than the single bolt and 3 bolt cams, yes interchangeable.

Abody mentioned the roller cam difference.

One thing I would tell you is to go solid either way. Once you dispel the solid cam myths they really are superior.
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x2. Rollers are expensive to do right (at least by my definition). Plus, unless you are looking for more than about 1.3hp/inch they're mostly not "needed" unless you're worried about cam break in. 1.3hp/inch is an expectation of 575hp or more out of a 440.
 
The HEMI cams have a different valve arrangement which means that the lobes on the cam are in a different order.
I made the switch to a solid flat tappet cam last year. I have not had to readjust the lash at all. Maybe it might need adjustment after several thousand more miles, but I have about 3000 miles on this setup.
I have considered going with a roller cam a few times but I've never been able to justify the expense considering how little I drive the car. I've heard that the hydraulic roller lifters do not last long if the engine spends a lot of time idling. I am not sure of why this is. Street cars that would benefit from a non adjustable type hydraulic setup would be the MOST likely to be driven in traffic at low speeds more than a dedicated drag car.
 
The answer to youre question Abodybomber is yes iam testing the waters I have a 440 1969 cast number-2536430-6-R/B if that means anything shes a virgin which is a myth and forbidden word around these parts,anyway back to the block virgin bores was going to throw the crank back in standard rods new piston rings bearings the standard pistons are still ok,new oil pump water pump gaskets etc.a voodoo roller cam PN-60312
roller rockers roller lifters rpm manifold and latter on when family kids allow for some alloy heads.Just looking down different roots to take,the cam interchange question was for a mates 400 hes putting in his rat rod he has a cam for a 440 but was unsure about changeability yes it would have to be a 3 bolt for the peter Jackson drive gear that he has for her,Thanks for youre input guys all of you its fantastic knowledge,
Daveo
 
Unless you get a aggressive ramp solid cam, the roller will make more power. With a solid cam, you can match the rollers performance with taking advantage of the larger diameter lifter and higher rocker ratios. 1.5 vs. 1.6.

It may require more Spring pressures though.
The bennifit of a roller cam is there is zero break in time, larger area under the curve for there lobes vs. Hyd. or solid cams.

If you can swing the money, go roller.
 
I did a small Comp street solid roller in my 470" b engine. The spring pressures aren't crazy. The myths about constant valve adjustments are just that...myths. With a well setup valvetrain using decent parts you won't spend much time running valves. I check mine once per year and rarely have to adjust them. Solid cam all the way....your budget/perf levels will dictate roller or flat tappet.
 
Yeah Rumblefish I was banking on the roller cam the part number is a VOODOO 60312
.535/.550 lift by memory Im not sure if this is too aggressive I think once the whole plan with the heads and roller rockers comes together it may be ok?Was lokking at the whiplash cam the sound gives a jellyfish a horn but the write ups are not that impressive well the ones I can find anyways ,has anyone on here used one??Trying to stay away from compcams I relised theyre designed for chevys but even my mates with chevys have had a bad run with them real bad.I would rather spend the money where it counts wisely so to speak..The imput from you all is fantastic thanks
Daveo
 
jesus Christ Moper 1.3hp per cubic inch??I did not no that hell that seems a **** load of power obviously this does not include the cam im banking on **** that's unreal.
 
You need to learn more , before you make those decisions. Reel back, and relax, spend some time on knowledge on airflow concept, and strokers and airflow.... Let's start there.. Ask lot's of questions here, your need to learn.
 
devo said:
Trying to stay away from compcams I relised theyre designed for chevys but even my mates with chevys have had a bad run with them real bad.Daveo
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:wack:

If this were true, there are some really prominent mopar engine builders that have no clue.
 
devo said:
jesus Christ Moper 1.3hp per cubic inch??I did not no that hell that seems a **** load of power obviously this does not include the cam im banking on **** that's unreal.
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Whoa! Easy with the words there buddy. Also, re-read what you typed. Please come back with a better sentence. It's a bit hard to flow and understand. Basic English! You probably do not realize that certain word and sayings do not always translate from nation to nation. ;)

Now, what is the goal of the engine build?
What performance level are you seeking?

These questions are a great starting point.
Then, what gears, wheel size, tire size are you planning on?

We will need a better picture of what you want to do in order to hp get you there.
Between the performance enthusiasts and pro builders here, we'll get you going!
Moper is well knowledged. And 1.3HP per cube is in most of our views as nothing much.

Though we do agree that is makes for a fun ride!
 
Ok basically im going to attempt to build this 440 around a roller cam and collecting the parts to make it work then put it all together without breaking the bank and I can drive it in the city and country side.The engine will be going into where a hemi 265 that's a six cylinder 3090lb (1402kg) I think by memory wheel base 115inch (2921mm)two door 1973 Chrysler valiant hardtop Factory wheels are 14inch this is a project car all that remains is a rolling bare shell with a 6 cylinder bw diff and 6cylinder torsion bars k- frame leaf springs etc,I have most of the parts for the big block conversion I have done this conversion before.Need to learn more?youre so right about that and this is the best place to start.Their is no gear box yet however I have a ford 9inch to collect off the farm not sure about gear ratio with that all I no is theyre strong and it came out of a factory 351 Cleveland car ford xa falcon.Finding a Chrysler v8 diff over here is very hard and the cost when you find one is bullshit,the ford diff was free.This build is nothing serious just a bloke havin fun I wanna make use of the monster I have sitting on a pallet wrapped in plastic under everyones feet in the shed,yes their is a drag strip 3hours from where iam which I would like to attend now and then for ***** and giggles.The other thing I want you to bare in mind is the closest machine shop is 5hours drive from me anyone decent anyway.I cant really think of anything else at the moment.Thanks for all youre help I hope this gives everyone a better hind site on what iam trying to achieve here,
Daveo
 
devo said:
Ok basically im going to attempt to build this 440 around a roller cam and collecting the parts to make it work then put it all together without breaking the bank and I can drive it in the city and country side.The engine will be going into where a hemi 265 that's a six cylinder 3090lb (1402kg) I think by memory wheel base 115inch (2921mm)two door 1973 Chrysler valiant hardtop Factory wheels are 14inch this is a project car all that remains is a rolling bare shell with a 6 cylinder bw diff and 6cylinder torsion bars k- frame leaf springs etc,I have most of the parts for the big block conversion I have done this conversion before.Need to learn more?youre so right about that and this is the best place to start.Their is no gear box yet however I have a ford 9inch to collect off the farm not sure about gear ratio with that all I no is theyre strong and it came out of a factory 351 Cleveland car ford xa falcon.Finding a Chrysler v8 diff over here is very hard and the cost when you find one is bullshit,the ford diff was free.This build is nothing serious just a bloke havin fun I wanna make use of the monster I have sitting on a pallet wrapped in plastic under everyones feet in the shed,yes their is a drag strip 3hours from where iam which I would like to attend now and then for ***** and giggles.The other thing I want you to bare in mind is the closest machine shop is 5hours drive from me anyone decent anyway.I cant really think of anything else at the moment.Thanks for all youre help I hope this gives everyone a better hind site on what iam trying to achieve here,
Daveo
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Daveo,

For your needs, I think a solid flat tappet will suit your needs. You can get one for 150-300 bucks as opposed to 1,000 USD+ for a big block roller cam. A lot of the experts and mopar builders seem to swear by the Comp extreme energy line of cams, the 284 and 285 series seem to be found a lot in 500 to 550hp builds(which will move that light Valiant very well), sometimes in even hotter builds. Mopar purple cam shafts are also very popular, the 509 is a common one. All of these will give you good performance and won't break the bank. I'm sure some of the much more knowledgeable folks will chime in, but I recommend researching member IQ52 and his builds. His combos produce amazing power and usually not very exotic parts that would break a budget. My last piece of advice is something I was told by a fellow member on here, duplicate a proven combo from a proven source.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Daveo,

For your needs, I think a solid flat tappet will suit your needs. Mopar purple cam shafts are also very popular, the 509 is a common one.

My last piece of advice is something I was told by a fellow member on here, duplicate a proven combo from a proven source.
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If he goes the way of a purple shaft I have nothing but good things to say about the 284/528/112 solid. I've built 2 440's with that cam and my latest just went 11.74 in full DOT trim at the track. Both made around 500hp on the dyno depending on the tune, intake and headers. Idles great and makes tons of torque with a very flat power curve.
 
devo said:
Ok then so any recommendations on the Racer Brown camshaft range?
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To my knowledge MPP cams are racer brown grinds.

If you want racer brown cams call Mr. Caveman Einstein at 4 seconds flat.com
 
I run a Comp Cam roller set up in my small block 408 stroker. It is a great set up and I have 20,000 miles on it. You'd have a hard time telling me Comp Cams are not quality parts. I am building a 440 now myself and considered going solid, but in the end I am going hydraulic due to ease of maintenance. I would love to be able to afford roller lifters and rockers again, but I'm not in a position to afford that now. I looked at a new set of hydraulic roller lifters for my 408. $670 for the set. Then the rockers, cam, etc... With bigger bucks comes bigger power, though.
 
HAHAHAHAHA. First of all big block and budget are not used in the same sentence. I have been playing with cars for close to 40 years. Bottom line you get what you pay for, and that will never change. I have used the same engine builder since i have been playing with cars, and he has never steered me wrong. He has educated me, and helped me to understand airflow and where power comes from. I get to spend a fair amount of time at his shop while he builds engines for people and puts them on the flow bench and dyno etc. You just cant turn down that kind of learning.

My last 426 wedge cost me around $13,000 carb to pan tuned on the dyno It made 525 HP and 552 TQ was a nice mild build that is streetable on pump gas, 9.98-1 compression mild solid lifter flat tappet cam. We talked at great length about what i wanted? I said i wanted an 11.50ET street car that i could drive everyday without being under the hood all the time. Afte that the choice is up to you? small block or Big block.

I got grief from friends for not building a 451 or 512 stroker? I said everybody has one i dont want that i wanted a 426 so thats what i built.

Best of luck in your build. Find and engine builder willing to work with you, shut up and listen to what he has to say. My engine builder has forgotten more than i will ever know. lol
 
Oh yeah, I cant seem to find anything about what the difference is in the solid roller and hydraulic cam shaft themselves..are the lobes ground on different profile on the solid for the solid lifters?is the core material different?All I can find is the solid uses solid lifters and the hydraulic uses hydraulic lifters and is it bad practice to mismatch the two?ie solid roller with hydraulic lifters and vice versa apologise for all the questions but you guys did say fire away lol
 
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