Time to add some inexpensive HP

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Trevor B

Trevor B

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Okay, time to look for some performance gains.
Car has a bone stock ’73 318 with Carter BBD 2 bbl.

I’ve done my Forabodiesonly/internet research and am planning on putting on the basics:
- Upgraded intake manifold
- 4 bbl carb
- 340 exhaust manifolds (I’ve already got in a box)
- dual exhaust.

Question: what intake manifold causes the fewest headaches. This car is going to be driven on the street and I’m not looking for racing performance, just a platform to put on a new carb.

Are there any good, not-too-expensive intake+carb combinations I can bolt on? Bonus if I don’t have to replace all the throttle and kick-down linkages.

Not going to do a cam just yet. Down the road I may consider a 340 cam.

(I’m familiar with Carter after having rebuilt mine)

Thanks in advance.
 
What was it, Weiand stealth? Yeah, one of those and a reman Edelbrock AVS 1806.
 
Pick up a stock 360 manifold for $50 or less and an Edelbrock 1406 for $300. If you want a little better intake find a Eddy Performer. Consider an electronic ignition if it doesn't have one.
 
Choice #1
LD4B, 600/630 AFB / AVS

#2 Performer and above carb(s)

#3 Weiand Action Plus and above carbs

Choice number 4 factory iron TQ intake and above carbs.

The TQ can be used in all the choices except choice #1 and if it is a good one, you'll enjou it a lot.
The Holley 600/650 carb can be used in all the above as well with the same performance.

Info not consider the Performer better than the OE intake.

Used parts can be found here. Happy part hunting!
 
I guess someone should ask if you are looking for brand new or if you want used parts?

If you want new and something good, the Weiand Stealth would be my choice. As for carb, I'll let you pick that.

While yes, you can get a stock 360 intake for cheap, the aftermarket ones will not only improve power, but they also weigh a lot less, so you get to go faster without more power.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions!
If it is not a terrible idea, used parts are fine with me. Opinions?
What is the Edelbrock equivalent of the AFB?

[stupid question: what does "manual choke" mean? I feel like the BBD is manual]
 
Trevor B said:
Thanks for all the suggestions!
If it is not a terrible idea, used parts are fine with me. Opinions?
What is the Edelbrock equivalent of the AFB?

[stupid question: does "manual choke" mean you have to operate it by hand? Pretty sure the BBD is an electric choke...]
Click to expand...


I would get an electric choke. when hooked up to a proper 12 v source, they work great, even in 20° and lower...


Here's what you want for a street 318 and electric choke in Edelbrock:

http://www.manciniracing.com/ed600cfmelch.html



And here's a comparable Holley:

http://www.manciniracing.com/homo41noflca.html


Here's the Wiand Stealth Part # 8022 that will take a square bore, it has a recommended RPM of idle to 6800 RPM and will run great on you combo and even if you upgrade a little more cam later:

https://www.holley.com/products/intakes/dual_plane_manifolds/parts/8022
 
Keeping looking at the classifieds every day.
Im in the same boat with a bone stock 71 Swinger and a 2bbl.
I just snatched up an Eddy performer intake and Eddy 1405 off the same guy.
Both used but for the same price of a new 1405.
 
If the engine has never been apart, put a new timing chain set in.
 
Should be able to get a used one for $125 or less on Ebay. Some of the people are nuts for the prices of some of them. Make sure it is a dual plenum, not open, for your application
 
Trevor B said:
Okay, time to look for some performance gains.
Car has a bone stock ’73 318 with Carter BBD 2 bbl.

I’ve done my Forabodiesonly/internet research and am planning on putting on the basics:
- Upgraded intake manifold
- 4 bbl carb
- 340 exhaust manifolds (I’ve already got in a box)
- dual exhaust.

Question: what intake manifold causes the fewest headaches. This car is going to be driven on the street and I’m not looking for racing performance, just a platform to put on a new carb.

Are there any good, not-too-expensive intake+carb combinations I can bolt on? Bonus if I don’t have to replace all the throttle and kick-down linkages.

Not going to do a cam just yet. Down the road I may consider a 340 cam.

(I’m familiar with Carter after having rebuilt mine)

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

The problem with the linkage is the carb. There is more travel on a 4 barrel carb. Usually a 340 throttle bracket will be good for the throttle cable, but a cable kick down is easiest and cheapest now. Keep your eyes open, all the factory 4 barrel manifolds are good.
 
don't forget craigslist
I picked up a weiand action plus, a eddie 1406, a mini starter and a timing cover all from the same guy for 225
(and for that price he rebuild the carb and worked over the idle circuit some)
 
Edelbrock performer and a holley 600..not a fan of the carter/edelbrock carbs...
 
Being I did a very similar build up of a '79 - 318. The 4160 is a very good carb for this app. should you decide on a Holley. I personally modified mine with a second metering block and dual feed line. The jets are a finer tuner than the plates. Both carbs performed equal.

Should you run a Carter/Edelbrock just use a thick base gasket. It helps prevent heat perculation of the fuel. It also works well with the Holley.
 
Trevor B said:
Okay, time to look for some performance gains.
Car has a bone stock ’73 318 with Carter BBD 2 bbl.

I’ve done my Forabodiesonly/internet research and am planning on putting on the basics:
- Upgraded intake manifold
- 4 bbl carb
- 340 exhaust manifolds (I’ve already got in a box)
- dual exhaust.

Question: what intake manifold causes the fewest headaches. This car is going to be driven on the street and I’m not looking for racing performance, just a platform to put on a new carb.

Are there any good, not-too-expensive intake+carb combinations I can bolt on? Bonus if I don’t have to replace all the throttle and kick-down linkages.

Not going to do a cam just yet. Down the road I may consider a 340 cam.

(I’m familiar with Carter after having rebuilt mine)

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

1973 ~ 318
Compression Ratio ...... 9.30-1
Cylinder Heads ........... #2843675 {Small Port / Small Valve = 1.78" Int./1.50" Exh.}

The 'Best Intake' would be the 'old favorite' Edelbrock #LD4B, which is a
Dual-Plane High-Rise designed for the small-port 273/318 Cylinder Heads,
with a 1.05" x 1.95" Manifold port size dimension.

Since you are familiar with Carter Carburetors, the 'old' Carter AVS {630 CFM}
off of the 1968 thru 1970 {340's} would be the logical choice.

You should gain {+25 Horsepower} with the above Intake + Carburetor combination.

We've put quite a few of these combinations on 'basic' 318 2-Barrel Engines,
and everyone has been pleasantly surprised with the Performance Gain
and easy Daily-Driver capabilities.
 
If you're handy at tweeking, the cheapest intake and carb would be to find a Maxi van, per say, and pull the Thermoquad carb and intake off. I've done this from old vans sitting around and paid 20 bucks for intake, 20 bucks for the carb. These perform with the best. If you don't care to mess around, and are not very handy working with carbs, I would suggest the Weiand action plus, with a 600 cfm carb. I have this very set up right now on a 318 (it was a bone stock 318 2bbl with dual exhaust) and it works great.
 
If you have factory air and want to keep it, don't go with the Weiand intake. The compressor will not fit without serious bracket fabrication.
 
Do nothing until you are ready to replace the cam since you need to remove the intake for the cam swap anyway. Also consider new valve springs, multi-indexing timing chain and magnum chain tensioner with your new cam. Please, also degree the cam, there are far to many points that can be off that will effect the cam and crank timing. Match the intake and carb to the cam you choose.
 
Looks like lots of options.

No AC so no problem there.

I've got an Edelbrock Performer intake on the way (used but in good shape and not too expensive). I'm thinking about the Edelbrock 1405 or 1406 in terms of user-friendliness. It looks like an online firestorm whenever anyone compares the Edelbrock and Holley but the consensus seems like Edelbrock requires somewhat less tweaking at the expense of a little power. I can live with that. Will get the recommended thick gasket.

Please excuse the stupid questions: I am learning this as I do it.
For an electric choke, do I have to run the wires through the firewall or can I get 12v under the hood?

Cams look pretty expensive and I'm at the edge of my budget with the stuff on the list already. Are used cams out of the question? (there's a guy selling a used 340 cam for cheap...). Where would I find an inexpensive 340 cam and whatever else is needed?

Looks like new timing chain is do-able.
 
Trevor B said:
Please excuse the stupid questions: I am learning this as I do it.
For an electric choke, do I have to run the wires through the firewall or can I get 12v under the hood?

A 12v keyed source under the hood is what you want.

Are used cams out of the question? (there's a guy selling a used 340 cam for cheap...).

As long as it is in good condition, nothing wrong with used. You will need new lifters and follow the breakin procedure. New valve springs would be a good idea as well.

Looks like new timing chain is do-able.
Click to expand...

If you get a new chain, make sure it's a double roller, much better quality than the factory original.
 
if your OK with a non roller chain I got one for sale for $20.00 plus shipping


I do see used cams and lifters show up for sale from time to time
 
Just in case... how does one match a cam to the carb/intake?
I'm planning on the Performer intake with the 600 Edelbrock. Would I buy a set that includes the lifters and valve springs or are they easy to pair up?
One thing to consider is that I've already got somewhat low vacuum... don't upgraded cams often reduce vacuum?
 
Trevor B said:
Just in case... how does one match a cam to the carb/intake?
I'm planning on the Performer intake with the 600 Edelbrock. Would I buy a set that includes the lifters and valve springs or are they easy to pair up?
One thing to consider is that I've already got somewhat low vacuum... don't upgraded cams often reduce vacuum?
Click to expand...


For a street engine, you want to run in the 260-270 duration. 280 duration is getting a little big for street.


I like to use Rhoades variable duration lifters for increased idle vacuum, smoother idle, better mpg, and more low and mid range power. Some others criticize them.

If you decide to use them, you will want part number 2018 for standard hydraulic flat tappets. Here's a link to how they work, read the second article:

http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/Articles.html
 
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