Just curious, he left the old rail flanges on, and slide the new in between? Close up that gap above the shackle so dirt and moisture don't pack up in there with some seam sealer or something.
Sorry but I don't like the angel of the shackell nor the way he fab and welded the shackell mount,if his welds break loose,your going to loose your rear.:burnout:
IMO, shackle angle is acceptable.
Sorry but I don't like the angel of the shackell nor the way he fab and welded the shackell mount,if his welds break loose,your going to loose your rear.:burnout:
With a car with no gas tank and no heavy gas? Ok if car was loaded to driving weight, JMO. MT
'cordin to the MP suspension book it is.
IMO, shackle angle is acceptable.
Air shocks will certainly test those welds.....
Something you can do to use the existing pieces.
Remove the rear shackle mount, marks where you want the upper mount to be. V out the bottom of the rail and invert the existing mount and weld it in place. Much easier than placing a tube through the rail.
Snubbers are garbage. JMO, haven't used one on any serious car in 30 years. Good springs and shocks are all you need.
when you move your springs inboard, the factory rails have holes right where the shackle needs to go thru. All you need to do is weld in tubing thru the framerail to fit the shackle and bushings. Having the mount welded to the top of the rail looks pretty dangerous to me if the bracket comes loose.
x2 times 1000
When you move your springs inboard, the factory rails have holes right where the shackle needs to go thru. All you need to do is weld in tubing thru the framerail to fit the shackle and bushings. Having the mount welded to the top of the rail looks pretty dangerous to me if the bracket comes loose.