Small Bolt Pattern Wheels Don't Fit Wilwood Disc Conversion

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DO yourself a favour ... switch to big bolt pattern .. more choices in wheels ........
 
I may have a similar problem. the previous owner put on wildwood manual discs and brake rotors/calipers...he also changed to LBP. I want to run steel wheels (currently has aftermarket wheels that are not my style). I tested a set of 14's and the calipers are hitting the rim. I am going to the body shop to pick up my 15's I had on my 69 roadrunner and test fitting those before paint...backspace on the 15's is 4.25
 
CaseyW said:
I was speaking with PST today, they kept insisting this kit had been used for 20 years by Wilwood with no problem..., and the reason it's not working for me is I don't have factory 15" SBP wheels with a 3" center hole. I then told him that those were never produced, SBP wheels have 2 1/4" center holes and even LBP wheels don't have a 3" center hole. I then added what you brought up, the studs being the wrong size for SBP wheels. This seemed to finally make it click with him that Wilwood was full of it saying this would work with SBP wheels. He said he would follow-up again with Wilwood engineering.
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Dude, for the type of driving You said You were planning on, I really wouldn't change anything. My '69 Dart w/a 'teener was out the far side of the traps @94+mph, & I never had a
problem hitting the first return road with stone stock 9" frt drums, & the 10x1.75" rears on the 8.75 rearend...manual brakes. I agree with abodyjoe, send the **** back, it ain't
worth all this dumbass riggin' to end up with no better than the K-H OE system. In no way would I touch those hubs with anything to modify them, You will be screwed if they don't
work, or worse if they fail & You have an accident. Even just stepping up to 10" drums would improve stopping a bunch w/o this stupid bullshit. It's simple, they either sold You the
wrong kit, or they don't have a right kit to begin with. Period.
 
dirty white boy said:
ok,..take the wildwood hubs off,..take to a machine shop have them chuck them in a lath and turn down the lip the wheels wont fit over,..then ream your lug holes out so your 1/2 studs fit,..then go buy 10 more 1/2 inch studs and ream out your rear hubs n wheels so youll have all 4 the same for rotation...the devil is in the details but this seems to be easyest cheapest and safest way to get you threw this conundrum!
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May not work that way. The brake hubs may be the size that they are due to a larger bearing. If that is the case and you try to machine away for clearance, you may cut through.
 
Kern Dog said:
May not work that way. The brake hubs may be the size that they are due to a larger bearing. If that is the case and you try to machine away for clearance, you may cut through.
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Or worse, You won't break through, then it fails on You out on the highway at speed!!!
 
Kern Dog said:
May not work that way. The brake hubs may be the size that they are due to a larger bearing. If that is the case and you try to machine away for clearance, you may cut through.
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very well possible, but if not its a better idea than cutting the wheel centers bigger!
 
The better idea would be for Wilwood to make their stuff right.
The kit should have some type of statement that they will only work with aftermarket small bolt pattern wheels with a larger center hole.
 
I'm going through a simolar issue right now with Wilwood conversion kit. But I have a set of 14" Small Bolt Pattern wheels and they fit over the hub. They are aftermarket by American Racing (Outlaw II). I may be in need of new wheels though due to backspacing and offset issues and this issue your having now scares me.

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That blue is a nice color for that car. I have a 65 Dart with that color interior. The outside is primer. I was thinking of painting the outside to match the inside. This seals the deal. Thanks for the pictures!
 
I will note though that I have the Wilwood kit for the 73+ disc spindles. Summits website states that you need a larger center hole in your wheel for the kit you have. I overlooked that too and did originally have to swap my kit out for the
140-11019-D

And thanks on the color. Now if I can get my issue solved with wheel/tire clearance I can get this car back on the road.
 
416stroker said:
I had issues with my SSBC disc brake conversion also. I "overlooked" the little asterisk on their website at the bottom of the page that said "must use 15 inch wheels". Hey guess what, 69 Darts never came with 15 inch wheels. So my complaint was and still is with these "conversion kits" is why not make a true conversion kit that fits the way the factory disc brakes did with the 14 inch wheels. On my setup, the calipers rubbed the inside radius of the wheel because the 11 in rotor places the caliper out just far enough to rub. So I had to polish off the lead ins and the exit sides of the calipers to take care of the rub. I called SSBC and they said our kits will only work with 15 inch wheels. No sense explaining to the guy about A bodies never having 15 in. wheels from the factory and his kits were supposed to be a bolt in ready to go kit. I told him that the factory disc brake setup used 14 inch wheels with no problems so why couldn't they have used the same size rotors so there wouldn't have been an issue. He basically said that's they way they build theirs and they haven't heard of any issues before me. BS! I made mine work but only after some serious grinding and polishing. For the money, I wasn't happy.
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I used the SSBC kit for my 10 in brake and factory 14in wheel SBP. The kit will only works on the 10 in brake not the 9inch. Is yours 9in or 10in?
 
72dart said:
I used the SSBC kit for my 10 in brake and factory 14in wheel SBP. The kit will only works on the 10 in brake not the 9inch. Is yours 9in or 10in?
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Mine were the 10 inch brakes which were standard on the V-8 cars and 340 cars.
 
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All of these SBP problems is why I sold my Wilwood brake kit. I wanted a SAFE stock steel wheel look on one of my wagons and this didn't fit the bill. I think a disc setup from Scarebird is the way to go.
 
So dude at PST told me I could get the wheels from classic industries. I called classic and they don't have anything that would work. I called wheel vintiques, they don't have nor can they build a wheel that will work. Wheel vintiques said even the 5 x 4.5 wheels they have, the 63 OE Chrysler that I have in 5x4, won't work because the center bore isn't the 3" that i'm being told I now need. Stockton Wheels has a SBP wheel, but the center bore isn't big enough. So at this point not only do my wheels not work, I can't find a place to even custom build a pair of wheels... Still going back and forth with PST about making this right. Really don't want to have to take apart the brakes but i'm not seeing many other options at this point, This is truly a bummer
 
i think @72bluNblu has a set of 14 inch SBP rims for sale
they are the slotted mags and in my opinion THE best looking wheel out there for our A bodies and they may very well have a 3 inch register
 
diymirage said:
i think @72bluNblu has a set of 14 inch SBP rims for sale
they are the slotted mags and in my opinion THE best looking wheel out there for our A bodies and they may very well have a 3 inch register
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Sold them today! :D

Finding an aftermarket wheel with a larger register isn't impossible, although if that kit requires a 3" register that's BIG. Not impossible but that's a horrible design. The stock 73+ disks have a smaller register (~2.7") and even that requires some machining on a bunch of aftermarket wheels.

I think that issue is that he wants steel rims, so, there's really no modifications you can make if the register isn't big enough. With aluminum rims you can have them machined to a larger register as long as the design of the rim allows for it. I had my enkei rpf1's machined to fit on the front of my Duster.
 
72bluNblu said:
Sold them today! :D

Finding an aftermarket wheel with a larger register isn't impossible, although if that kit requires a 3" register that's BIG. Not impossible but that's a horrible design. The stock 73+ disks have a smaller register (~2.7") and even that requires some machining on a bunch of aftermarket wheels.

I think that issue is that he wants steel rims, so, there's really no modifications you can make if the register isn't big enough. With aluminum rims you can have them machined to a larger register as long as the design of the rim allows for it. I had my enkei rpf1's machined to fit on the front of my Duster.
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I've never even looked at aluminum wheels. My car is a pretty much stock 63 valiant. Everything is restored, it just doesn't go fast :) I don't want any sort of wheel that will give the impression that it is a fast car, that's why i like the steel wheel. She's a stock baby. Are there any super plain aluminum wheels you know of Or aluminum wheels that look like steel wheels, like a retro look but lighter?
 
There's these, pretty much identical to the set I just sold except with a 4" backspace. Center bore is 2.93", so, according to the Wilwood instructions you'd need to have them machined open to 3.050". And I would guess that they're for 7/16" lugs too, so, you'd need to change that as well. Since they're a conical seat you'd need to have them machined for the larger studs too if you were doing it right.
are-vna695748p_xl.jpg

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/are-vna695769/overview/

And FYI, on the Summit Racing info page for that brake kit it lists the minimum hub bore as 3.050". I can't believe PST said they'd fit anything SBP and stock.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-11022/overview/year/1969/make/plymouth/model/barracuda

Honestly, I would get rid of that brake kit. Make PST take it back, they were 100% wrong about the wheels fitting, they're not even close. And it's not like they shouldn't have that information, Summit obviously does. I don't know what Wilwood was thinking when they designed that hub. That's a horrible hub design to have it be that large of a diameter, let alone to offer it with the SBP like that will help you. It's worse than the stock 73+ disks, and those already have a big register as far as aftermarket wheels are concerned. Not to mention the use of 1/2" studs. It wouldn't be easy to find wheels for that kit using the BBP that it's also drilled for, but at least then you'd have more options and the lugs would be the right size. To use the SBP on those hubs is a nightmare.
 
CaseyW said:
I've never even looked at aluminum wheels. My car is a pretty much stock 63 valiant. Everything is restored, it just doesn't go fast :) I don't want any sort of wheel that will give the impression that it is a fast car, that's why i like the steel wheel. She's a stock baby. Are there any super plain aluminum wheels you know of Or aluminum wheels that look like steel wheels, like a retro look but lighter?
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The only thing that is scary about scarebird is the fact that the Previa won't be around on the streets for much longer, so I would stock up on rotors now for the long term.
The hub on the LBP is 2.81" nominal, the outer bearing outer race is 1.81", there is a full 1/2" of cast alloy around the bearing to support it OE. Having the hub machined
down to the SBP hub dia. of 2.31" would leave only 1/8" of material to support it......& possibly 60-70% of Your cars weight!!! DANGEROUS.........................
I'm not sure what bearings Wilwood is even using in their hubs, so that could even be worse yet!!
Having Your steelies modified can be done & safely, but screws up using them on the back if You want to rotate tires unless You use a hub ring, which a million tuners do.....
You seem insistent on putting discs on the car, and they are great to have, but I stand by what I said posts back.......for the type of driving You do just putting 10" drums
on instead will stop that little lightweight Vali perfectly fine. It probably stops fine now, if the shoes are adjusted properly & the wheel cylinders are free & working fine, the
only time they would be a problem is long steep *** mountain descents.
 
Killer6 said:
The only thing that is scary about scarebird is the fact that the Previa won't be around on the streets for much longer, so I would stock up on rotors now for the long term.
The hub on the LBP is 2.81" nominal, the outer bearing outer race is 1.81", there is a full 1/2" of cast alloy around the bearing to support it OE. Having the hub machined
down to the SBP hub dia. of 2.31" would leave only 1/8" of material to support it......& possibly 60-70% of Your cars weight!!! DANGEROUS.........................
I'm not sure what bearings Wilwood is even using in their hubs, so that could even be worse yet!!
Having Your steelies modified can be done & safely, but screws up using them on the back if You want to rotate tires unless You use a hub ring, which a million tuners do.....
You seem insistent on putting discs on the car, and they are great to have, but I stand by what I said posts back.......for the type of driving You do just putting 10" drums
on instead will stop that little lightweight Vali perfectly fine. It probably stops fine now, if the shoes are adjusted properly & the wheel cylinders are free & working fine, the
only time they would be a problem is long steep *** mountain descents.
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I'm not opposed to the 10" drums, I just hate the fact I already did everything and now am screwed. Don't you need to source a new spindle for the 10"?
 
just did the scarebird on a 65 valiant , very happy with the results. took about 6 hours in the garage as i also changed out the single pot master and front brake lines at the same time . rock auto has previa rotors under $10 each and celebrity calipers for under $20 each. A ton of upgraded pads and rotors are available. 3rd conversion i've done and used different 14" smallbolt wheels each time , slots , ralleys and outlaw 2"s all cleared the calipers.
 
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