440?

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cuda620 said:
If I do a 451 I'm wanting to grind the crank counterweights by hand. Fixed income, and nobody around here does it. Journals yes,counterweights no. I saw an article on a low buck 451 build... But can't find it now. The guy said he hand ground them, dunno. I've just put in a couple of 440's long ago and let it go at that. I have 2/400's and 2/440's.so I could go either way. Just asking for opinions. Trust me I'm taking it all in.
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Unbelieveable, cutting the counter weights would be a heck of a lot easier than turning a crank ! Any one w/ a lathe big enough to fit a crank in it could do it. Maybe their afraid of not cutting it far enough or, too far. Find another machine shop!!!!!!!!!
 
I get why people do the 451. but to if your gonna stroke, go 4.15 for 383/400. largest you can go and have decent rod ratios or 4.25 or 4.375 in a 440.
 
cuda620 said:
If I may ask, who's master cylinder is that? Did you make or buy that heat shield? Thanks.
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Master is from Mancini racing. Heat shield was made from stainless. I probably do not need the heat shield, but better safe.
 
68dodge said:
Master is from Mancini racing. Heat shield was made from stainless. I probably do not need the heat shield, but better safe.
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Did you use sealed power pistons and a stock forged 440 crank for your build? Thanks.
 
cuda620 said:
If I do a 451 I'm wanting to grind the crank counterweights by hand. Fixed income, and nobody around here does it. Journals yes,counterweights no. I saw an article on a low buck 451 build... But can't find it now. The guy said he hand ground them, dunno. I've just put in a couple of 440's long ago and let it go at that. I have 2/400's and 2/440's.so I could go either way. Just asking for opinions. Trust me I'm taking it all in.
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Where in Indiana are you located? I can tell you 5 places off the top of my head that grind cranks that can turn the counter weights and several machine shops that can also do them.
Tom
 
68dodge said:
Seal Power LW2355F30 with a 69 block and crank.
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May I also ask,,, did you use a stock oil pan and pump or? I’ve got a big block pan,windage tray and pick up,and the pan has the notch for A body steering but I’m not sure if it’s enough. I could add another quart of oil with the windage tray for a total of 5 plus the filter. Not sure if that’s enough though or I need another pan. I think I may run out of oil with a 4 quart pan and a hv pump.
 
cuda620 said:
May I also ask,,, did you use a stock oil pan and pump or? I’ve got a big block pan,windage tray and pick up,and the pan has the notch for A body steering but I’m not sure if it’s enough. I could add another quart of oil with the windage tray for a total of 5 plus the filter. Not sure if that’s enough though or I need another pan. I think I may run out of oil with a 4 quart pan and a hv pump.
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Stock C-Body oil pan, windage tray, HV pump. Check to make sure your steering idler arm does not hit the pan. For some reason some of the C-body oil pans with the notch still hit the pan and may need a small dent. Also make sure you have the clearance for the HV pump. It will be longer than the stock one. May have to shim your motor mounts. For extra oil, use a larger oil filter, I use a Royal Purple
 
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Thanks, I have the 187 pan and windage tray. Wondering if I could use them. Are you using the 1 or 2 quart filter? No problem running low on oil when cranked up with the high volume pump?
 
cuda620 said:
Thanks, I have the 187 pan and windage tray. Wondering if I could use them. Are you using the 1 or 2 quart filter? No problem running low on oil when cranked up with the high volume pump?
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187 pan with windage tray will work, I Use Royal Purple 30-8A
 
68dodge said:
187 pan with windage tray will work, I Use Royal Purple 30-8A
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Thanks I’m glad I don’t have to spend more money... Tryin to budget build. Did you use the 1 or 2 quart k&n filter? Thought about royal purple. Use brad penn for break ins and Amsoil z-rod 10w30 after 3000 miles. Synthetic oils too slick for break in... Imo.
 
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roccodart440 said:
THE BEST cooling system is the 1000hp A-body unit from BE Cool.

I've used 2 of them. Pricey, but you'll never have a cooling issue and it's a bolt in deal.
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Do you know the part number or just look it up by that reference? Thanks! Hopefully with everyone’s advice,I won’t make costly mistakes.
 
I ran a 93 pump gas 440 in my old 73 dart swinger. The TTI headers fit great, the only thing I had to do was remove the pitman arm Grease fitting. The car would run 10.49 at 126 in the 1/4 and drive it on the street. Man I miss that car

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cuda620 said:
Do you know the part number or just look it up by that reference? Thanks! Hopefully with everyone’s advice,I won’t make costly mistakes.
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I'd call them.

Just an FYI there are 2 choices in that radiator depending on what side you want the inlet and outlet on.
 
roccodart440 said:
I'd call them.

Just an FYI there are 2 choices in that radiator depending on what side you want the inlet and outlet on.
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Does one cool any better than the other. I have a 26” 2 row brass core now with a p.s. inlet, but I know it’s not enough to cool it.
 
Ok just askin. Cause at this point I can go either way. I’ve read that 440source fixed the flow problem. So I’ll use their housing with a milodon pump. Thanks!
 
cuda620 said:
Ok just askin. Cause at this point I can go either way. I’ve read that 440source fixed the flow problem. So I’ll use their housing with a milodon pump. Thanks!
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MAKE SURE THE FINS ARE TACKED TO THE IMPELLOR SHAFT ON THE PUMP.

They had a recall on these and I got one. Only time I've ever overheated.
 
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